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  1. #16
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    But guys, you are missing his point - he can't afford forstners right now, and where can he get a Colt Forstner? So a spade bit solution is required. I too would recommend a forstner, for the additional reason that there'll be a much shallower brad point wound in the bottom of the hole (assuming a blind hole is being drilled).

    Quote Originally Posted by hoodlums562 View Post
    From the little expierence I do have, when I start the entry off slow it doesn't tear the wood up as easily as when I start it off full speed. But I may be wrong I will attempt to do this again I have but maybe a few weeks of expierence trying to work with wood. So everything is still brand new to me
    As you enter, do it very gently, as with other things in life. Sounds like a sharpening is required, or use the covering sacrificial piece on top (makes it impossible to see your mark then, but you can figure a way around that - or ask for help). Is it a new spade bit, or an inheritance?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

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  3. #17
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    Drill a 1/8" pilot hole in the work piece.
    Drill a 1/8" pilot hole through the sacrificial top piece.
    Use the drill bit to index the two together while clamping up tight.
    Blast away with the spade surface tearout should be a lot less.

  4. #18
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    Something to be aware of:

    When the spade bit is just about to exit through the bottom of the top sacrificial piece, it will have cut a disc at the bottom - this is because the spade is shaped so that it cuts the rim of the hole fist. This disc will then be spinning, and some additional pressure will be required to break it, so you can get through to the job proper. At first it feels like something has gone wrong, but it's just the way it is.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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