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  1. #1
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    Default Need help with wood bending and joining of bent wood. Any advice is appriciated

    Hey guys, I am doing some research for my year 12 major HSC project, I am making a contemporary hall table, that has a slight bend in the legs with a cross section at the front that is bent. I have looked alittle into bending of wood, i have considered lamination method but not sure if this would be a suitable method as im not to sure of the final aesthetic appearence of the job. I am interested in steam bending the wood as it not going to be to thick or wide. about 19mm thick and around 30-50mm wide. I was just wondering if any one could help point me in the right direction of the method, the type of woods (if im wanting to have a light shade of wood). Also the joining that would be needed to join the cross at the centre and the centre cross to the legs.
    Thankyou,
    Ben

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  3. #2
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    Someone on the forums made a very similar looking table not that long ago, but on his the legs were made of tapered laminations glued together with the help of a form to get the curve.

    Laminating in this way (especially with epoxy) gives a more repeatable and predictable result than steam bending, i.e. less springback.

    If you really want to try the steam bending, best to find some air-dried rather than kiln dried timber. Can't help you with specific light-coloured species, but I'm sure others will know.

  4. #3
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    Yes someone on the forums has designed a similar hall table before, that was my source of inspiration asked the creator for approval to use his ideas.
    Im not to sure whether the lamination method would bring up a wierd look on the legs of not, never done either before.
    thankyou for you input but greatly appriciated

  5. #4
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    As your curves are not tight and are only one curve per piece, it may be easier to cut from a wide board laying the templates side by side across the board. Cut the shapes with a bandsaw or jigsaw
    then final shape with a spoke shave. If you particularly wanted to go down the bent timber route, you would get far more consistant results laminating rather than steam bending. Also your selection of timber specie would be much greater as many timbers do not bend well.

  6. #5
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    Is bent wood part of the HSC assessment or something! Is straight too easy?

    I'd be tempted to just cut out shapes from flat boards as Rustynail suggests! .
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  7. #6
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    If you go down the laminated route, by using epoxy and tinting it with artists powder pigments to match the timber, you will make the laminations invisible.
    If you go down the steam bending route, check a reference such as "The Australian Timber Buyer's Guide" to see what they say about the timber's suitability for steam bending. If the timber you want to use is generally suitable, look for pieces that have straight grain that is pretty well parallel to the length. To minimise spring-back, leave it on the form for as long as possible, at least 12 hours, to return to ambient moisture content.
    Either method should be suitable for your design. Just make sure you have lots of clamps and clamping blocks on hand before you start.
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  8. #7
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    Ben
    I have bent with steam and laminated (cold molded) both of these methods require a mold or form to help achieve and mantain their desired state of curvature.Once you make a mold replicas of that form become consistent in their duplication. I wouldn't say either of these methods is really easy but they are both a hell of a lot of fun and certainly worth trying sometime. (both have still have many practical applications)

    Rustynail mentioned cutting the shapes from wide board. Definitely the easiest, quickest, safest way to get the desired shapes and probably the cheapest method as well.

    By the way Ben are the legs and centers bent in more than one plane? I wasn't sure from your sketch.

    Steve
    Last edited by kamusur; 29th November 2011 at 07:55 PM. Reason: spelling

  9. #8
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    Default Bend like Beckham

    Laminations will definitely give you the result and with a little precautionary measures will also give you the look you're after. There is one advantage to steam bending, and that is that you won't have any lines. There are many disadvantages to steam bending for a first-timer: it may crack, or buckle, if you're using Australian timber there are only a handful of light coloured species that are suitable, plus I have only ever had predictable results with air-dried timber - not the kiln dried stuff you'll by from most Australian timber sellers, then you have to wait a good period of time after the material is bent for it to dry before you can use it (approx 7 days, depending on the species) and lastly, you also need a very serious piece of kit (i.e. a steam bending strap and block). I've done a good deal of both steam bending and laminations and have often had good results with bending, but have always had good results with laminating.

    As far as joinery, once the pieces are bent and dressed, there would be no more problem cutting the kind of joints you're looking at than there would be if you were cutting them in solid timber.

    I would not cut these pieces from solid timber, because you may encounter trouble with grain direction across (or around) the bends which could weaken the pieces - but that depends on the severity of the bend and the wood species. I wouldn't, but that's just me.

    If you're anywhere in or near me in Western Sydney, I'd be happy to help you through the process and show you the results, just send me a PM.

    pete
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  10. #9
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    Thankyou very much guys for input.
    I steering well clear of cutting from a big piece of timber, as this process will have alot of waste of timber, it is alot weaker due to the grain direction and it is not a very skillful practice when compared to steam or lamination method.


    Quote Originally Posted by kamusur View Post
    Alex

    I have bent with steam and laminated (cold molded) both of these methods require a mold or form to help achieve and mantain their desired state of curvature.Once you make a mold replicas of that form become consistent in their duplication. I wouldn't say either of these methods is really easy but they are both a hell of a lot of fun and certainly worth trying sometime. (both have still have many practical applications)

    Rustynail mentioned cutting the shapes from wide board. Definitely the easiest, quickest, safest way to get the desired shapes and probably the cheapest method as well.

    By the way Aex are the legs and centers bent in more than one plane? I wasn't sure from your sketch.

    Steve
    not sure what you are asking, but what i am wanting to achieve is to maybe have a slight curve at the bottom that archs into a sharper curve at the top, plus the timber will be not as wide at the bottom as it will at the top (would this be a problem)

  11. #10
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    I think Kamsur's reply was meant for Ben, not me.
    From looking at the sketch, I'd guess you probably wouldn't need a compression strap for steam bending, as you're not bending through too great an angle. (But you won't know for sure until you try!)
    Either method will give you a better result than cutting. Whichever method you use, start by clamping the centre of the piece to the form and work towards the ends.
    Would it be worth more marks to use both methods and comment on the pros/cons of each. The same form will work for both.
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  12. #11
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    Have to agree with Alex - trying both methods, documenting the procedures and results obtained, would actually make for a very worthwhile project.

    I think a lot of people on the forum would be interested in this too.

    If you think about the design of the former, you'll be able to use the same one for both methods.
    Last edited by Mr Brush; 30th November 2011 at 08:39 AM. Reason: another thought

  13. #12
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    Ben,
    I agree cutting from a board is not an exceptionally skillfull method. As far as waste is concerned, this would be minimal if the pieces were layed out wth each curved piece snugged in against its neighbour. Strength need not be compromised with carefull grain selection.
    I have used this method for making sabre leg chairs for years with little waste and have never had a leg brake. If your curves were tight, short grain would become an issue. I have used all three methods for producing the required results and I encourage you to embark upon which ever method takes your fancy. In summary, laminating is expensive due to adhesive cost, forms are required and labour intensive. The positive; a strong, stable, repeatable product. Skill level? None really, its just strips stuck together. Steam bending, extremely time consuming, limited suitable species, end product can be unstable and inconsistant, forms are required.
    I make these points not with the intention of steering you away from one method or another, I make them for the purpose of pointing out the practicalities envolved when deciding on a method of construction. As a custom furnitue maker producing one-offs, economy of scale becomes an important consideration.

  14. #13
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    Sincere Apologies to both Alex and Ben yet another "Tetley moment gaffer" glad someone is on the ball Alex and it sure as hell aint me !

    Steve

  15. #14
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    Queensland Silver Ash is suitable for steam bending, light in colour and straight grain, I’ve used it before.

  16. #15
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    Woooo another zombie thread

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