Thread: Hi! My First Post and Question #1: Veneer Repair?

Here's what I'd do. I'm assuming a few things here - mainly that you are wanting to protect the existing paintwork and finish - as I assume the object is of greater value if it is 'original'. I'm also assuming the majority of the veneer is stuck on reasonably firmly and you're only wanting to re-stick the bits that have come loose.

First, I'd attend to the lifting edges. The 3 bits that have come off completely I'd leave aside for the moment.

I'd apply masking tape to the outside of the existing veneers. This is to protect it from spilt or squeezed out glue. Test first to make sure the tape does not lift off the old paint. Be liberal with the masking tape - cover every bit which could possibly get glue on it, as lots of glue will squeeze out when the pressure goes on. Sometimes furniture wax will do the same job, experiment first and make sure whatever you use you can get off without damage.

Then I'd get a syringe and needle. I'd fill it up with aquadhere or some other good quality pva glue. Use the syringe to place the glue behind the veneer where it is peeling. Get it as far behind as you can, using a spatula to spread it out if necessary. The key thing here I think is to use a glue that is not sticky until it dries. That means you have some chance of keeping it neat. That rules out contact glue.

After the glue is spread, you have about 10 minutes working time. Apply a single strip of masking tape vertically along the lifting edge. The intention here is to hold the frayed, splitting edges together neatly through the next steps.

Then I'd get some bending ply or similar, cut to about the size of the front of the machine. I'd line it with plastic so the pva glue wont stick to it. Then I'd warp it around the front of the machine, such that it presses the loose bits down, smoothly all round. You need a fair bit of pressure but not so much that you crush the masking tape against the surface, which will make it impossible to remove without damage. Hold it in place with a bunch of tie-downs (as used on roof racks) wrapped right around the machine. Leave it for a few hours.

Then I'd attend to the 3 loose bits. Simliar method. Apply glue behind. Hold them in place with masking tape, and use the same pressing system.

After the glue is dry, remove the masking tape very, very carefully.

My main worry would be about the glue spoiling the finish. An alternate strategy may be to assemble, fix the pressing system, tighten, then immediately undo and wipe away any excess glue, then refit and retighten.

The front door panel is easy, just a home made caul press consisting of several sheets of mdf and home made cauls made of timber and bolts, like this https://www.woodworkforums.com/f40/ve...orking-116353/ (scroll down to the last post in thread).

The bits coming loose inside the coin slot area I'd do much the same way, but pressing outwards.

I think the veneer distortion will sort itself out when the pressure and moisture from the glue go on.

Main thing is to experiment first, on bits where it cant be seen, to make sure nothing you are doing is going to be destructive.

Hope this helps. Its a tough one.

Arron

Thanks for the reply!
everything sounds good except I think once it's pressed on there at all the masking tape will stick too much to the paint like you said.. I will check it out though.

Also, what's bending ply? I can imagine its bendable plywood, but I dont know exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks again!
James

STEP AWAY FROM THE GLUE BOTTLE.

***DO NOT*** USE PVA GLUE ON AN ANTIQUE, GOD-DANG-IT!!!!!!!!!

If you are trying to keep it original and retain its historical value DO NOT - I repeat DO NOT use PVA glue. PVA glue to a wooden antique is like tuning a piano with a chainsaw or fixing a 300 year old family bible with sticky tape and staples.

Veneer used to be glued with hide glue. Hide glue should be the first glue you reach for in restoring any old woodwork items, as it has many points in its favour:

It's what was used originally.
It is quite strong, except when exposed to lots of heat/humidity.
It is easily repairable.
It sticks to itself without any sanding or other preparation required.
Most importantly - it is reversible. If you make a mess, you can remove it without sanding off half the timber.
You can also make jokes about it being made from "the one that came last at the 3.30 at Randwick" to shock visiting vegetarians, but this is just an added thrill and not related to its main qualities.

http://norsewoodsmith.com/content/ha...essons-learned
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/w...hhideglue.aspx
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/ar...ool_Veneering/

Hide glue is available from the Ubeaut guy who runs these forums.

OK, but can you be sure the original was made with hide glue. It sounds a bit recent to be using hide glue in an industrial setting.

Arron

Lol alright, those do sound like some good qualities, and the fact that there is no trace of any pva anywhere on the machine combined with the fact that half the veneer came off due to heat and probably humidity based on the surface rust on some metal parts kindof supports the idea that hide glue may have been used..

I'm guessing I cant just buy hide glue from Mitre10? Whats the name of the guy who runs these forums?

Most importantly, how do I use it?

Cheers!
James

Edit:
I read through those links and I have some understanding of how to use it now.
Not having to clamp it sounds good, but I'm not really sure how I'd keep it hot out in the shed.. all I have is our kitchen stove..
I'm also a little worried about how easily the warped veneer will flatten out.. I really think it needs to be softened somehow first..

I've started collecting things, I've ordered the hide glue and I bought an old laboratory gas stove and a cooking thermometer off ebay.

What kind of brush do I need for applying the glue?

I'll probably make a veneer hammer unless someone here happens to have an unwanted one, or knows where I can buy one?

If you want to test to see if it was done with hide glue originally, the steam from a kettle should soften any hide glue left (it'll go sticky, then set again when it cools down).

Hide glue didn't really get replaced by synthetics until after World War II, so there is a good chance it was made with it.

I cant actually see any original glue at all.. where the parts have come apart the wood is clean.

I dont actually mind if the original glue is used, I dont think amusement machine collectors are as particular as furniture experts are, but after reading everything I'm going to use hide glue anyway as it seems like the best choice.