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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    26

    Default Bass guitar cabinet question

    I picked up a pair of good 15" drivers that would be perfect to be used in a cabinet shown below. Basically, it's 40" x 24" x 14" (external dimensions - yes, it was designed in the 60's) and the panels are supposed to be 3/4" ply.
    So, the front panels (which have the speakers in them) can be mounted using slots (dado?), as can the internal panels. The other outside panels are what I'm wondering how to join together. I could use a fillet (glue block) and mitre joints, but i'm wondering if there's anything else I could use that might be better.
    I'll be screwing and gluing and the whole thing will be covered in Tolex (or other similar heavy vinyl), so any blemishes will be nicely hidden. But, as is the case with a lot of these cabinets, I'd like to make sure it'll at least have a chance of surviving a fall or a minor drop.
    Any suggestions would be most welcome...I figure I could do an OK job (but I'd like to do a great job).
    Summ.jpg
    Last edited by Cloth Ears; 3rd July 2019 at 08:49 PM. Reason: photo didn't show
    Jonty
    It is impossible to build a fool proof system; because fools are so ingenious.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Palmerston North
    Age
    63
    Posts
    10

    Default

    For bigger speakers (I’ve made a few) the carcass needs to be STRONG - more so for bass bins. The last thing you want is for it to resonate or to twist when you move it.

    I make a butted perimeter box with full front/back screwed and glued blocks, then rebate the front and back to be able to drop in the speaker panel and back. Blocks at every corner glued and screwed and at least one in the middle of each long side with a front/rear facing of solid timber to screw the front/panels in place.

    You haven’t indicated whether it’s ported or sealed - sealed needs lots of screws with big drivers. And bass bins are always heavy due to the construction as much as the drivers themselves.

    The cabinets themselves need to be braced in all three dimensions - I laser-cut my braces from 9mm ply, with all the hole cutouts I can fit without compromising strength.

    There are many detailed subwoofer/ bass bin designs on the web for free - look at how they are constructed.

    edit: you have amazing resources in Melbourne. Makerspace equipment
    - City of Melbourne


    edit2: this article is very applicable to what you are wanting to do. You can see his screw holes (I would use more, but ymmv) and his bracing and his corner reinforcing. A Stereo Guitar Speaker Cabinet

    if you can get cheap hardwood in 25mm2, that’s the ideal for your ‘screwed-in faces’. Screw and glue every face, braces should be a tight fit. Ply over MDF, but you can use MDF internal panels to cut resonance and boost panel strength, but well-joined and braced ply should be fine.

    If you’re going to be using flight case hardware (handles, corners, etc.) remember to increase your support systems to cope - you want to screw, rivet, etc into the hardwood, not just the ply.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Palmerston North
    Age
    63
    Posts
    10

    Default

    I somehow deleted my (wordy) post.

    have a look at this: A Stereo Guitar Speaker Cabinet

    He shows you a pretty capable construction.

    Reinforcing, glueing, bracing every corner and surface that moves (front/back, flight case corners, handles, etc.) is the key. It’s just a box.

    Its a a pity my previous post disappeared as it took me a while.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Conder, ACT
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    6,051

    Default


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Palmerston North
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    63
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    10

    Default

    Fanks

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Willunga, Australia
    Posts
    735

    Default

    A few random thoughts.

    You did not say what the total power input was but at higher powers you are developing crushing sound pressure waves inside the box, ported or not, so make sure your joits are reinforced and rigid. Plenty of bracing is also called for as Myk3y says.

    If you know the Thiel and Small parameters for your 15" drivers then there are online programs to properly dimension your box and if necessary port. Depending on what the box is doing it will be well worth your while to run up a design using one of these programs.

    Finally, and this is critical, make sure all of your joints are sealed to perfection. They have to be air tight and strong or your enclosure will be completely useless.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Willunga, Australia
    Posts
    735

    Default

    Duplicate!

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