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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Sydney
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    275

    Default Home Office Desk top Advice

    Hi Folks,

    Bit of advice required... I'm building a double desk into a nook in our spare room for my wife and I and was thinking of using this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/marquee-...chtop_p2667635

    Now unfortunately, i don't have the time, money or tools required to make my own benchtop, so i thought this would be a good option even if i swap it out for something nicer down the track.

    It will be "floating" as in i'll screw batons into the studs and sit the benchtop on top, the length is perfect already so my questions are:

    - Would i need to put a leg half way along the front edge for support? I eventually want to put drawers under it so was going to use those as support, but won't have them for a while
    - Does this cut well? I'll have to lob a corner off one side to avoid obstructing the entry into the room
    - What type of finish works well? I was thinking a dark stain...

    I'm aiming for something along these lines...

    Home office.jpg
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    Default

    Hi,
    At 2m long and 25mm thick it will require some support to prevent sagging. If you are having a drawer unit in the center then a temporary leg would do. Place it on 2 saw horses or something to get an idea of how flexy it is before you start. Another support method would be an apron but then that can cost you some clearance height for seating. I have not used those rubber wood tops but it should cut like most other woods.
    Regards
    John

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    932

    Default

    Rubberwood in this case is just a name for a SE Asian tropical hardwood. It's not overly hard and will cut and machine ok. Staining it shouldn't present any problems either, it's very commonly used for commercial furniture and stained a myriad of colors.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    As mention you will need some sort of middle support.

    If this is the exact length that you require then all the better.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks for the responses everyone.

    I kind of figured i'd need a middle support, just thought i'd check anyway. I'll just put in something temporary till i can get some drawers under there as support.
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Macksville
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    62
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    390

    Default

    I used two of these laminated together for my woodwork bench top. It cuts & sands well, no chipping or splintering. I finished my benchtop with BLO & turps, but used another type of those laminated tops for a craft bench for SWMBO & just gave it a few coats of Wipe On Poly, which came up great. pesonally I wouldn't use a dark stain on a desk top, I prefer a lighter shade.
    Alkahestic, these are made from old rubber trees, that are no longer viable for producing latex. In the past they were just bulldozed into piles & burnt, so these are an environmentally friendly product.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    As mention you will need some sort of middle support.

    If this is the exact length that you require then all the better.
    You do not need a middle support .... if you add rails under the front and rear edges. That will also add substance to the look. The rail will need to be about 75 - 100mm high, depending on its cross section.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,094

    Default

    Good Morning Dibbers

    I made a desk very similar to the one in your illustration and it has been in daily use since 1985. It is simply a wooden top sitting on three 2-drawer Namco steel filing cabinets. Works fine.

    Made the top myself - it is 2300 x 750 x 32 mm celery top pine. No sagging after 34 years, but it sits on the cabinet tops and only actually spans the two knee holes which are 500 mm wide.

    Desk.jpg

    If you are worried about sag, then the cheapest and easiest solution might be just to stack two of those rubberwood panels on top of each other.



    Cheers

    Graeme

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Queensland
    Posts
    163

    Default

    If you plan to use an optical computer mouse you may find some wood will require a mat on top of the wood. I haven't used a mouse for ages, mainly working on a laptop, but it's something to consider as the wood grain can confuse the mouse. Maybe mice (?) are more sophisticated now.

    On the bright side, the cat will appreciate that.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    I have built 5 different desks. Three of them are 32" x 72" tops, 5/8" G1S. The others are 32" x 96" tops.
    They are all #1 A-Grade Douglas fir plywood (about as good as it gets).
    There's a 2x4 ladder frame under each and a center leg for the 96" desks. I weigh 90kg and I can stand on them.
    No rails, they hurt my knees. Nothing sags with 3 or 4 tower computers on it.
    Gravity holds the tops down so that they do not float away (no screws).

    GraemeCook has the right idea. Do up a fancy desk when you can. In the mean time, make some money.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Thanks for all the tips folks.

    I think ill go a temporary leg for now. The intention is to put drawers in eventually so a rail might make it more difficult than it needs to be

    Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleokitty View Post
    If you plan to use an optical computer mouse you may find some wood will require a mat on top of the wood. .......
    Not my experience.

    My HP mouse on a computer mainly used for CAD has no problems witht he wood grain.



    Cheers


    Graeme

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Queensland
    Posts
    163

    Default

    My old mouse caused the cursor to jump around on wood grain so I had to use a mouse pad. The new mouse doesn't. Maybe I should have said 'Some mice require a pad on top of woodgrain (or other strong patterns)' rather than 'some woods'.

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