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Thread: How would you make this?
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11th May 2013, 01:28 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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How would you make this?
Below is my old thread. Someone sent me a link to a site for a router bit that could do those edges.
For the life of me I cannot find it anymore. Can someone please point me in the right direction. Cheers
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/how-would-you-make-157691/
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12th May 2013, 01:10 AM #2GOLD MEMBER
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It wouldn't take many minutes to hand-shape and finish an edge like that. Its a very simple profile that could be achieved with a stiff block and 60 grit paper. Then finished through to 180/240. Easy.
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12th May 2013, 04:55 AM #3Senior Member
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Obviously , if I had the right router bit , that's what I would use ( with a template for the bearing of the bit). Since the bit this size it's not cheap , if you have to do just one board , I would suggest a spokeshave , fine rasp and a sand paper.
It's a slow and painful process...the secret is, dont mind the pain.(Ian Norbury)
________________________
Regards
Ivan Chonov
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12th May 2013, 08:09 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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I 've gained quite a bit of experience lately with spokeshaves in the Kitchen Sticks project (wood carving forum). Maybe 80-90 meters of corner-rounding. Each stick is 130cm of edge work.
Two puzzles here:
a) how to keep the profile constant along the length of the edges.
b) both convex and concave sweeps. Need 2 spokeshave profiles, minimum to bring it off.
I'd suggest some sort of router work, the tight radius of the bit can follow those curves.
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13th May 2013, 03:13 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Yes, that;s the problem I was thinking of, ie with a spokeshave and sander etc, how would I keep the edge constant the entire length?
Anyone have any idea of the router bit to use, I know there is one out there )
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13th May 2013, 04:17 PM #6
Personally, I'd cut that with a fine(ish) blade in a bandsaw - tilting the table, of course - and then clean up & give it a 'base profile' using the 'idle drum' part of a belt linisher & a template.
Then hand-sanding with 100 grit or so on a good rubber pad to 'tweak' the profile.
From there, sanding as per usual.
- Andy Mc
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13th May 2013, 05:39 PM #7
Hi Arry,
I'm going to ask the obvious, so don't shoot the messenger please.
Have you tried CMT, Carbitool, Whiteside, Amana, MCLS, Porter Cable(Rockler), McJings,Tibecon?
Further to the above, would any of these do the trick
1.849 Lettering Bits (60
2.Raised Panel Bits w/ Bearing Guides : CARBA-TEC
Just an idea.
Regards,
Rob
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13th May 2013, 08:45 PM #8
If doing it by hand, I'd suggest cutting a section profile in some scrap ply or similar so you can fit it over the edge every so often to check for profile consistency.
Good luck, nice little project.
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15th May 2013, 12:46 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Cheers for all of the advice guys.
Rob, I can try all of those suppliers however the problem is that I am unsure of which bit to use )
Someone last year sent me a link to the exact bit from memory but it must have been a PM and I deleted it as I can no longer find it (
PS. Ivan, you are not wrong about the price, the raised panel bit is over $100.
Cheers
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19th May 2013, 08:50 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Any other ideas at all?
I don't have a spokeshave or rasp as well, can anyone recommend?
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19th May 2013, 08:57 PM #11
Hi Arry,
The best I can think of is that the router bit is some kind of raised panel bit with a straight edge. The sides are done with the board up one way and the ends with it up the other way. Perhaps use the raised panel bits as a start and see what looks right. I know they aren't cheap, but they may do the job.
Regards,
Rob
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21st May 2013, 12:48 AM #12Retired
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I have a big 45 degree chamfer bit with a top bearing. I can't see the angle, but it looks about right. Rockler bit 91573... It's a beast at 2 1/4" across. I also looked in the carbatec catalogue and there are some CMT bits there that offer 15, 25, 22.5 and 30 degrees*, all with top bearings to control the curves. Route it upside down, of course.
A tiled bandsaw would do the job.
Parts 836-13011, 836-190-11, 857-502-11, 857-501-11
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