Thread: Ideas for making a drilling Jig

My way of thinking is to do this in some sort of template that is butted up against two corners then a reference edge as per the last holes drilled.

I'd be thinking a doweling jig of some sort

Do the holes need to line up panel to panel?

Thanks to both of you, I want it to make cabinates, so a dowelling jig would be ok, but can you get them that width. The ones I have seen have been small. Also i'm trying to keep costs down, so I want idea's if pos, to make one. Thanks again

Originally Posted by sprog1

I want it to make cabinates, so a dowelling jig would be ok, but can you get them that width. The ones I have seen have been small. Also i'm trying to keep costs down, so I want idea's if pos, to make one. Thanks again

for cabinets the best option would be a biscuit jointer.

How to Use a Biscuit Joiner Video

Hi Ian, no, that would make them ridged, I should have explained, I want them so that I can disasemble them,Knock Down.

OK
so what knock down fittings will you be using?

Maybe you can use a dowelling jig and reference off either end

What about a T section template that butts against one edge with the four holes drilled out along the center line extended to the work piece. With another template that allows 60cm spacing allowing a line to be marked. This suggestion would mean to use the templates flat so that you are not fighting gravity.

This sounds very much like a production puzzle I solved about 40 years ago.

What are your hole sizes, edge distance from the 60cm edge, and spacing along that edge?

Also, what tolerances can you allow?

Cheers,
Joe

As Joe states all this will depend upon your tolerances and dimensions.

However for constant repetition I’d go with a horizontally mounted router over a table with a fence set to allow the inner most holes to be bored by sliding the panel down the surface table against a side fence. One side then flipping over and do the other.

The add a slip fence (against the fixed fence) of the correct dimension such that sliding the panel down against the router cutter it will bore the two outer holes again by flipping over for the second.

Flipping the (unwieldy) panel is an extra operation, and imposes the requirement that all panels be exactly the same width. It will be simpler, and more accurate, to use only one corner as reference to drill the four holes.

Transfer drilling through holes in a template, without guide bushings, can send precision into the weeds. That was the complaint in 1970, operating on long narrow workpieces. The solution I devised involved a drill press with a long auxiliary table. In the present case, a plunge router would be preferred, with a long auxiliary base plate, say plywood about 20cm (depending on edge distance) x 75cm (depending on spacing).

At the router location, set a nail (or similar) projecting below the jig at the edge offset distance. For each hole, set two nails to engage the far corner, also projecting below the jig. Flare the layout so that the nail pairs don't foul each other. The flare will slightly degrade the edge offset, but if the holes can be somewhat oversize, it shouldn't matter.

I would make a dummy of the panel edge, about 25cm "long," with holes already made. Set the router and auxiliary base plate upside down, with the cutter extended into each hole sequentially. Drive the nails or brads into the base plate as described, no more than flush with the dummy.

A side benefit of the 1970 scheme was about a ten-fold increase in production.

Cheers,
Joe

Hi Joe

I think the key to providing a reasonable answer is to know what knock-down fittngs the OP intends to use.
If the cabinets the OP wants to make were permanent, clamping the pieces together at right angles and inserting screws would work and not really require a jig.
If the cabinets only need to be knocked down a handful of times, it might still work.

In terms of simple, this jig from Lee Valley could easily be modified to sit on a panel's edge

What would you use for drill bushes. I used to buy carbide sleeves which could be installed to ensure the holes dont wear and lose accuracy, but I havent seen these type of bushes for a long time

I take that back, I just did a google and there are plenty around