Thread: Ideas for how to make a matchbox compartment automatically slide up out of chest

Perhaps you could store them in the lid, which looks like its got a bit of depth?
You'll need a way to lock them in though, when the lid goes down.
TM

Thanks for the reply TM,

I have definitely thought about story in the lid of the box, which is the perfect depth for a mathbox car.. However, as you pointed out, making something that will hold the cars when the lid closes, that is the problem..

The only thing I can really think of is to add a lid for the matchbox compartment itself.. Which I suppose could be cool, because it would be like a secret compartment...

Why not do the same thing as the wall cabinet. Use the lid as the storage area, a perspex front would stop the cars falling out when the lid is closed and will allow them to be viewed when the lid is open. Given you have three compartments on the underside of the lid it would be cool to make three storage bays, like three smaller wall cabinets, that can be removed from the lid. The individual boxes could have a slide on perspex lid (like an old pencil box) and having them removable would make access much easier than if it were permanently attached to the lid.

I think my only reservation about using perspex/acrylic for a lid is the fact I've not worked with it before, so I'd probably end up with really messy edges where I've made cuts.. But I guess you've gotta start somewhere don't you!

As the lid is only just deep enough for the width of a matchbox car, if I were to go with the lid storage idea, I'd probably just make some 'walls and floors', therefore making it permanently attached.. This would also make sure he cleans up his cars (well hopefully).

But for the perspex, I think if I add a channels for them to slide in, separated into 3 sections, that could work well.

I can just image his face lighting up when he opens it for the first time, to see all these places for his cars to go (as well as a few new cars taking up a few of those spots of course)

Originally Posted by denno020

I think my only reservation about using perspex/acrylic for a lid is the fact I've not worked with it before, so I'd probably end up with really messy edges where I've made cuts.. But I guess you've gotta start somewhere don't you!

You can get special tablesaw blades for cutting perspex but it will cut ok with a decent timber blade. the edges clean up ok with a flame and a bit of practice.

DOug

My biggest worry is pushing the perspex into the blade a bit too hard/fast, and causing a big crack.. Obviously the course of action there is to take my time! lol.

I really do think this is the best solution though.. Having them behind a perspex sheet..

Thanks for the advice guys, pushed me to try something new.. At least I've got a couple of months to stuff it up, and then fix it .

I like the idea of the perspex as it would be good to see the cars on display when the lid is open ..... also a little safer than glass .

I am sure that you could get it cut to size at a minimal additional cost, most likely to be cheaper than buying a dedicated blade. Perhaps you could get a few off cuts to test out first. If you are finding you are getting a poor edge it would be possible to create a rebate to house the rough edge of the perspex and then separate the lid of the display cabinet as you would for a standard box construction and use some hinges or a piano hinge.

If the display boxes are going to be permanently fixed to the box it may be easier to have a hinged display cabinet front rather than trying to slide the perspex out of a rebate.

I am looking forward to seeing the results.

So you're thinking one large piece of perspex, that would hinge down after the lid is opened.. That would obviously take less work on my part.. And that means less to mess up lol, so that may very well be a solution!

As for getting it cut, I've sent a couple of emails to places, but I'm not sure if they do small jobs like this.. Guess I'll find out when they get back to me.

As much as I love the chain that stops the lid from opening too far, I think it will have to come out, in favour of something that won't get in the way of the perspex lid..
I saw a youtube video the other day, where a guy used the things I recon I need, but searching the Bunnings website for the terms he referred to them as didn't turn up any results..
Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4yMa3LQKQ0. He refers to them as lid support and as hinge support..

Is this the kind of thing that would be able to replace the chain? Therefore stopping the lid from opening too far?

Thanks,
Luke

Matchbox cars are made of steel?
or at least some feromagnetic alloy?

if so you could use mid sized rare earth magnets to hold the cars in the lid "garage"

What you're after are a pair of soft closing stays, Bunnings sell them. They are very good and the tension is adjustable. I built an outdoor furniture cushion storage chest with a panelled lid made from jarrah; it must weigh around 5kg or so but these hold the lid up happily and a nudge lets it drop nice and gentle. They're not hinges though; they are stays. Oh, unfortunately they are L & R handed... and $42. EACH!

As for the cars they are die-cast zinc alloy and plastic, only steel is in the wire axles and the two rivets that stick the body onto the base so Ian's idea won't work.

Originally Posted by denno020

So you're thinking one large piece of perspex, that would hinge down after the lid is opened.

Personally I would still be looking at three smaller individual display boxes, with a hinged Perspex lid that could be removed from the toy box lid.

The problem I see with having the display box permanently attached is that the toy box lid would need to be fixed open at a touch over 90 degrees so that the cars don't fall out when the Perspex lid is open (ie they sit towards the back of the compartment to avoid them all falling out into the toy box). Depending on the age/size of the child it may be difficult it may be necessary to reach over the toy box to open the display, and with one large hinged display box lid it may get difficult. It would also be a problem if somebody knocks the main lid closed while the Perspex display is open.

The three smaller display boxes would be easier to make, can be recessed deeper in the box lid (as they go between the bracing), and would make opening easier. If the were removable it would be possible to take the display cases into another room for play, or even load one up with the best cars to take to a friends house.

If you Google Matchbox display case I am sure there will be something already made in plastic which will give you all the information you need to make a better one fit for purpose. I know as a kid I had one shaped like a steering wheel which had individual compartments, Perspex front and a hinged lid with a catch.

It might also be worth checking EBay for the Perspex. I was looking for some once and it's possible to find smaller pieces precut (provided the sizes suit your project).

What about a hidden tray in the lid compartments the same style as the wall display without Perspex. So open lid of toy box and you will see no cars only the underside of the car tray, undo the catch and the inner lid swings down to reveal the cars. So piano hinge across the hinge side of the lid. This way to play with normal toys just lift the lid as usual (cars may clunk a little as the lid lifts) but this is the only indication of something hidden. Then slide a timber catch to let the toy tray rest onto the open box area.
cheers

Thanks for the replies guys, this is great stuff.

As for those soft closing stays, ouch! $42 is quite steep.. However thinking about it, and the possible weight that will be added to the lid if it's full of cars and the extra structure I add to hold the cars, they might be required.. I'm assuming they'd stop the lid from slamming down?

The lid, as it opens now, rests back at just over 90 degrees (you can see in the image below), so that would naturally hold the cars in place, if I added 'shelving' for the cars at 90 degrees to the lid..

Also, you can see in the photos there are grooves already cut into the panels, which are perfectly spaces for the height for a matchbox car, so I was just going to get some 3mm ply, and glue that into those slots..
I do understand what you're saying about the advantage of it being removable, but that means I would have to build a backing, which would mean the cars wouldn't be flush in line with the bottom of the lid lining..
Here's a couple of photos illustrating (really roughly) how I would go about getting it done:
IMG_20141101_172031.jpgIMG_20141101_172041.jpg
You can see that I'm holding the green car in the correct angle it would be, after I add the shelving to hold the cars, and in the photo on the left, that shows how flush it lines up with the base of the lid lining. So adding a 3mm piece of perspex over that would only increase the depth of the lid by that 3mm amount..

As for the secret compartment, I do like that idea, and that's the initial thought I had when someone suggested using the lid to store them in one of the first replies.. I'll see what the price of the perspex is, and if it seems a bit too much, then I will go with a single sheet of 3mm ply as a cover to 'hide' the cars when closed.
And also, to make sure it's not just a piece of wood covering the cars, I'll draw a racetrack on the top, so that when the chest lid is open, and the cars are on show (the hidden compartment is open), there will be a racetrack sitting on top of the chest.. I'm sure my nephew would like that.

Oh, and he's 5 and a half, so he's big enough to reach over the chest to grab the cars.

To be honest, I'm getting a little jealous that he'll have this lol.. I might have to build myself something too (such a big kid, I know)..

Thanks for the feedback so far!
Luke

this is at the other end of the thinking "or the bottom" why not build a riser for the bottom of the toy box, that way your not changing the structure of the box and not adding more indirect weight to the lid. Make this a kicker board with a hidden draw inside, you will be able to make it deeper with smaller trays on the inside. ad small push in dowels to the outer edge of the small trays and presto you may had a hi-rise car park. with the added depth to the draw a car transporter can be placed in there.


my two bob worth