Thread: Quick and dirty mitre joint reinforcement

My thoughts, the long wood glued into the corner/ mitre is certainly going to be strong. Stronger than any tenon or bracket. You don’t mention which way the force is being applied but if it is a stationary join like internal box corner then go for it. If it is for a waterfall coffee table then also go for it except don’t go jumping on the coffee table, join will hold but the side timber will break.
cheers

thank you, mate...in this instance, it's going to be used as a bed table for using a laptop in bed, so it doesn't need to withstand much weight at all, but as it might be flipped up on occassion to be used a C shaped table for tucking into a sofa (if you can picture that it'll be standing up tall) I would like a bit of stability to keep the sides from being affected by gravity. really appreciate the advice, thanks!

You couple probably use a triangle section, rather than a square, if you want a lower profile. Then you could make it a little wider, which is what you really want.

Originally Posted by zoovegroover

Hi guys, I'm looking for a way to reinforce a long mitre joint (like for a case mitre, or small waterfall mitred coffee table), but I need it to be super fast and easy. I know about splines, loose tenons, l-shaped tenons and the like, but they all take a lot of time to setup and I need something I can turn around fast.

Image below of the wood strip idea

IMG_9184.jpg

For "super fast and easy" you could always "stitch" the joint with Miller dowels


The supplier's blurb says
The system is available in three configurations —
mini for boards up to 3/4" thick (great for box or drawer construction),
small for boards up to 1" thick, and
large for boards up to 1 3/4" thick.

Starter packs including 100 (mini) or 50 (small or large) plus the shaped drill bit should be available from Carbatech


OR
use Japanese wooden nails and the specially shaped drill bit.




Both of these options meet your "super fast and easy" criteria

Splines are pretty quick. Using a table saw with a sled/jig or biscuit joiner you can cut them in a matter of minutes. If you have either capability I certainly wouldn't consider them requiring a lot of time to set up.

The problem I see with this kind of joint is the accidental drop off the bed. That would be a fair amount of force, when it inevitably lands on the corner with the rest of the table's weight behind it. At a minimum I'd replace the square section with a triangular section that has greater contact area, and even then you'd need to think about the possibility of tearing the grain from the timber at the glue joint in that drop scenario.

Using a laptop in bed? ����♂️

pocket screws.

even bunnings will sell you a cheap jig. Craftright Pocket Hole Jig | Bunnings Warehouse then use wafer head screws.

thanks, Yeah i did consider spines, but i dont have a flat topped blade and i cant go get one right now as im running on a budget. id also need a flush saw to trim them back...

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

Using a laptop in bed? ����♂️

ha, its not for me

thanks for all these responses, i really appreciate the assistance. I like the idea of the triangle strip to get more surface area, but keep low profile...i think for future ill need to find a way to cut splines or the like, but this should be a good compromise for now.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

Using a laptop in bed? ����♂️

an expanded definition of "working from home" ??

Originally Posted by zoovegroover

thanks, Yeah i did consider spines, but i dont have a flat topped blade and i cant go get one right now as im running on a budget. id also need a flush saw to trim them back...

Do you have a biscuit jointer? I've seen someone on Youtube use one to cut the grooves for splines. I'm thinking of getting one just for this purpose.

If you look at Georgian chests of drawers with Bracket feet they are made that way . Mitre joined rubbed in place with hide glue . The glue blocks are rubbed in behind in a second step, after the mitre has dried . The grain in the blocks is opposite the legs . Not a normal thing to do but the legs are only 4 to 5 inches high . That’s why they last a hundred years or two before needing work . A longer joint in the mitre could be the a problem . Putting in the glue block in in sections with a small gap of 4mm between each could help . The blocks don’t have to be square las said above . They were split in half usually . Cut in half and given a hollow mould (Cove) would be nice . Seen that before on old things . The key is perfect fit and hide glue is great for rubbed joints .
Rob