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  1. #1
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    Default Incoming baby project - Which primer and enamel?

    Hello forum,

    Sorry for not updating my other thread for a while ("TV cabinet from garbage").
    I have temporary shifted on another project, due to different priorities.
    I have been gifted an old chest of drawers and wish to use it to store the stuff of our incoming baby !

    As you can see from pictures, it's another old piece of garbage. The plan is to fix some minor timber damages, sand it completely and repaint with white glossy enamel. I will also replace the knobs with nicer ones. As you can see from the last picture, after sanded, the timber shows a natural clear tone. The sizes are H 93 cm, W 104 cm, D 47 cm.

    20200628_135225.jpg

    20200628_135249.jpg

    20200628_135240.jpg

    20200628_142758.jpg

    So, today's question is: how to choose the right PRIMER and ENAMEL for the above project?
    I have done some research and was oriented towards an oil-based enamel. Examples:

    Taubmans Oil Based Gloss White Enamel - 1L | Bunnings Warehouse
    British Paints 1L Gloss White Enamel Paint | Bunnings Warehouse

    Is the Oil-Based enamel a good option for my project?
    How to choose the right primer?

    The BRITISH PAINTS is also available in 2L for $56. Not sure how much enamel I will need... so maybe it's worth to pay a bit more for the bigger can?

    Any suggestions?
    Thanks as usual for your thoughts

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  3. #2
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    Default

    On the furniture I have painted, I use an all-in-one water based acrylic primer/sealer/undercoat then an oil based enamel for the finish coat.
    Its probably just me but I can’t seem to get a good two coat finish with water based acrylic enamel.

    I just painted some drawers for the shed.

    808EB1F6-2A64-4609-9622-732240E001D9.jpeg

  4. #3
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    Default

    Short of going to a two-pot polyurethane, the toughest, glossiest and longest wearing paint that I know is Wattyl Killrust. I know, its a metal paint, but it still works on wood.

    I just use whatever left over primer or undercoat that I have and then apply two coats of Killrust, a third if needed. If the surface is pourous then I will paint on the primer, wait ten minutes and then rub it off with a clean rag - this actually forces the primer into the wood and it acts as a grain filler. Then a real coat of primer.

    My fire surround and mantle piece were painted with Killrust eight years ago and still looks like new. Wooden windows 20 years ago. My stereo speakers were done 30+ years ago and may need repainting in ten years...

  5. #4
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    There will be others that know more than me but this was my experience with similar projects. I had to set up two nurseries at once and used some used furniture, repainting and re purposing to keep costs down.

    I did one piece as you are describing and had limited success despite many hours of sanding. I obviously left some of the clear finish on in some parts and the paint (enamel) didn't key in some sections. I undercoated as per the instructions.

    I went and spoke to a guy and a small paint shop and he suggested a product called ESP Easy surface prep. No sanding just wipe it on the wipe it off then paint over the top. I didnt believe it so I didnt buy it initially. I ended up speaking to a friend who is a painter and he agreed with the paint shop guy although he didnt use the product himself.

    I used it and had no problems with paint coming off and only gave it a very light sand.

    Might be worth checking out if this will work for you before you sand the whole thing...

  6. #5
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    ESP Easy surface prep works but you could also use a strong solution of TSP with a non woven pad, the green pot scrubbing pads work well. It'll take off the gloss, loose paint, and dirt. I did this on all of trim and doors in my house, the old paint was oil based enamel and the new paint is water based. No issues three years later.

    For primer, Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3 is great. It's excellent as a primer but also covers up any stains that might otherwise seep through. As long as the subsurface isn't glossy and super smooth, it'll stick.

    With water based paints you have to either spray them or be really quick by hand. Thin foam rollers or pads work well and you only have a few minutes to get the paint on the entire surface. Once it starts tacking over don't touch it or you just end up with a big mess.

    Oil based is a lot more forgiving and you have much more open time to lay off the paint. The only cons are the VOC content (smells and carcinogenic) and difficulty cleaning brushes and other equipment. If you've got a few weeks for the paint to cure, the smell shouldn't be a problem.

    Also, don't paint any of the insides of the drawers or carcass.

  7. #6
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    Thanks all for the suggestions!
    I'll have to go through all your options and choose what to do.

    In the meanwhile, I have a further question: is it good to mix PENETROL with an Oil-Based enamel? I have read that it makes much easier to apply the enamel with a brush/roller, and after a few minutes the paint settles and all the brush/roller marks 'disappear'.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    On the furniture I have painted, I use an all-in-one water based acrylic primer/sealer/undercoat then an oil based enamel for the finish coat.
    So, there is no problem in using a water-based primer and then an oil-based enamel. Got it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Alkahestic View Post
    ... Also, don't paint any of the insides of the drawers or carcass.
    I wanted to paint the inside of the drawers as well (and let plenty of time for the fumes and solvent of the paint to dry well)! Really curious now: Why I should not do this? If this is "not allowed", how do you suggest to change the colour/finish inside the drawers?

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuriatko View Post
    In the meanwhile, I have a further question: is it good to mix PENETROL with an Oil-Based enamel? I have read that it makes much easier to apply the enamel with a brush/roller, and after a few minutes the paint settles and all the brush/roller marks 'disappear'.

    I wanted to paint the inside of the drawers as well (and let plenty of time for the fumes and solvent of the paint to dry well)! Really curious now: Why I should not do this? If this is "not allowed", how do you suggest to change the colour/finish inside the drawers?
    You can add penetrol to oil based enamels but with modern oil based paints you don't really need to. With a decent brush you'll get a really good finish without additives. One thing to keep in mind is that you'll never have that super glossy 2 pack look without actually using 2 pack paints. Spraying oil or water based paints will get you close and brush with oil based would be the next best surface finish.

    Regarding painting of drawers - it's a 50/50 question. If you're using metal/plastic drawer slides, there'll be less of an issue of the sides binding due to the paint. Inside drawers the paint as you suspect can continue to off gas for quite a long time and the contents will get the wonderful paint stink. If the drawers are already stinky you could try a coat of shellac or a shellac based primer (Bullseye 1-2-3 is one these). So it's not so much that it's not allowed, it's just that there can be negative consequences. A water based paint might be a better choice for the drawer interior as it'll cure a lot faster.

  9. #8
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    Thank you all for your contributions.

    So, I am oriented to proceed as follows:

    1) all-in-one water based acrylic primer/sealer/undercoat, both inside the drawers and outside
    2) water based enamel for finishing the inside of the drawers (to avoid paint smell on clothes and other contents)
    3) oil based enamel on the exterior, to obtain a nice white, glossy, shiny finish
    4) Leave unfinished (no primer, no enamel at all) the bottom borders and the external sides of the drawers, as these parts are subject to friction against the carcass and the paint would not last probably

    How does that sound?

    Will I be able to obtain the glossy finish with a brush or a paint roller is more advisable?

    Another newbie question: will I need turpentine to remove the oil-based enamel from the brush and to clean other tools?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuriatko View Post
    ...
    In the meanwhile, I have a further question: is it good to mix PENETROL with an Oil-Based enamel? I have read that it makes much easier to apply the enamel with a brush/roller, and after a few minutes the paint settles and all the brush/roller marks 'disappear'.
    .....

    This might have been beneficial 40+ years ago, but the paint technologists addressed this issue may years ago.

    The exception are some of the super cheap or unknown brands.

  11. #10
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    Thanks all for the kind suggestions. I have done some progresses I wish to share with you!
    First, I had to fix all the drawers: the bottom edges were worn and curved by decades of usage and this affected the sliding. I have shaped new straight edges on the bandsaw and glued at the bottom of each drawer. Hope these are visible in the pictures.

    20200725_141554.jpg

    20200725_141504.jpg

    It's the first time I "build" something on the bandsaw, so please be kind. I am quite pleased with the result, because now the drawers slide well, so mission accomplished ! I used a small Ozito bandsaw.

  12. #11
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    Another small repair was needed on one of the decorations at the bottom of the front. As you can see from the detail, the one in the picture was 'gnawed by mice'.
    I cutted away the rotten corner with a jigsaw and reshaped the replacing part again on the bandsaw.

    Don't ask me how I did such a straight cut free-hand with the jigsaw, because I am still wondering how I could do that...
    Again, the Ozito bandsaw did an excellent job, quick and accurate.

    20200711_170746.jpg

    20200719_160326.jpg

    The new piece is glued in place. The final outcome leaves me very satisfied.

    20200719_163203.jpg

    20200804_155944.jpg

  13. #12
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    My missus chose new chrome plated knobs, so I have drilled new holes. Here are the new knobs in place for a try.

    20200725_142505.jpg

    Then, I sealed the old holes with Timbermate and sanded the drawers (you can also see a first test of the primer on one of the drawers).

    20200726_163618.jpg

    20200802_104833.jpg

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