Thread: inlay question

Hi Chris,

Not sure why you would put pine into a hardwood table, pine is soft and will scar easily on a coffee table.

That aside the task shouldn't be too hard to do, if you have a router you should be able to achieve this pretty easily although you may need to create a sled arrangement for it to be able to span the 400mm. You can also try out a manual approach using chisels although this could be time consuming. Look up 'poor mans router' on youtube - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_2a_FwjAgk This type of tool can be useful to ensure you get an equal depth for your whole cut when finishing, you'll still need to do the bulk of the work by hand first though since this is really only good for shallow cuts.

Perhaps if you post some pictures you might get more responses.
Good Luck.
Mat

Thanks for the quick reply Mat.

For starters you understood my project :>

Liked the poor mans router. (I think he has more tools on his workbench than I own, though am planning to spend soon on some essentials including a router.)

Thanks for the sled arrangement suggestion. I found something like that at Plane your wood slabs with a Planing Sled that you build

You have helped heaps.

BTW what is a good router out there? Won't get a lot of use so don't need top of range.

Cheers
Chris

Originally Posted by chrisinoz

BTW what is a good router out there? Won't get a lot of use so don't need top of range.

Hello again Chris,

Glad you found my post helpful.

In terms of routers the only thing that i would suggest is that you stick with one that has a 1/2inch collet and a reasonable amount of power....approx 2hp or 1400W. If you really aren't going to use it much then you can just get a ryobi or similar cheapy from the big green store. I should note that the router is a very versatile tool and comes in handy for many woodworking projects. It was the first major tool i bought, i had less of a budget back then an bought a cheap ryobi which eventually (2yrs later) developed a shuddering wobble, took it back to the big B and got a refund. The ryobi had a 3yr warranty so that helped even though i didn't have the invoice.

Anyway, i digress. I bought a Triton MOF001 because of the micro height adjust (very useful to have) and above table adjust options, HOWEVER I have had issues with it. One of the windings on the rotor failed and the speed controller got all confused. Took several weeks to get it fixed, PITA really! So take that for what you will. If i was to buy one again i would stick with Bosch, Makita, Hitachi, Dewalt or their ilk. If you buy right the first time it will last you for life.

Have a look at prices online and then do some research on these forums, most reputable brands have been reviewed here at least once or twice.

Good Luck.
Mat

Originally Posted by Lplates

.....In terms of routers the only thing that i would suggest is that you stick with one that has a 1/2inch collet and a reasonable amount of power....approx 2hp or 1400W...... If you buy right the first time it will last you for life.....

I agree with what Lplates has said in regards to the above. This is especially true when you want to use the router for a continual amount of hours on a project.

Originally Posted by Lplates

Not sure why you would put pine into a hardwood table, pine is soft and will scar easily on a coffee table.

Pine will also move a lot more than hardwood, especially over 400mm, so you might end up with a gap around it when it shrinks or a lump in the middle when it expands.

Hi Mat

Thanks for the extended reply on the routers. Thanks also Christos for your comments. I would prefer a brand name and so with that in mind I did go to the big green store and did not find much there. However, I did see an Ozito rou-1700 1600w with 1/2 collett on the clearance table , boxed.

http://www.ozito.com.au/c/56-handhel...-bits-kitbox-1

I weakened my resolve and grabbed it for 50.00 including 15 bits. I will not have a lot of use for it so hopefully it will give me a good run for my money!

Now of course I see that a router table will be helpful and the ozito one Ozito Router Table - Woodworking, Handheld Power Tools - in Bunnings at 149.00 hopefully will help.

I am going to need a thicknesser and I have read a bit on the available ones and I like what i read about the Jet12. https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...hicknesser-12# (mainly be using it for pine)

Finally I will need a table saw. Only found good write ups on the dewalt one, but I came across one at carbatec which seems it will fit the bill for me. (Rip and crosscut)

https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...te-saw-2-boxes

Finally I'll need push sticks. Saw some scary youtube videos so definitely will need something there. Anyone tried the plastic ones here?

https://www.carbatec.com.au/health-s...afety-kit-5pce

I welcome any comments on my post.

Cheers
Chris

Thanks Elanjacobs

I had not considered the differing nature of timber so I might need to rethink my inlay project. From one with little experience to one with much...thanks.

Hi Chris

and welcome to the Forums !
Hang around, ask all the [what you think are dumb] questions, there's many here who are happy to answer, and remember the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask and should of ...

If it's OK with you I'll respond in a couple of posts.

Originally Posted by chrisinoz

Hi. Although having failed woodworking at school (I blame the teacher!), at 62 I have decided to take it up as a hobby and see where it leads me.

I have coffee table, some kind of hardwood top (22mm thick). It is about 900x900. I was hoping to be able to put a pine sheet about 10mm thick (400x400) into the center ie it would require taking out 10mm out of the surface of the table.

Is this utter madness? If it is possible what would be required and what skill level required?

Hope I have explained myself properly.

Cheers
Chris

Firstly, are you sure your coffee table is solid wood and not a veneer over MDF or particle board? This will effect how you go about the task.

secondly, what you want to do is doable (so not utter madness), but IMO it's not a power tool only task. A small kit of well tuned and very sharp hand tools will be very very useful.

thirdly, I suggest that the inlay be no thicker than about 3mm, which would require a maximum 2mm deep cut out. I'm currently doing something similar, but I'm using 1.6mm thick veneers and gluing them into a 1.3mm deep recess. Sourcing material that thin is very difficult, but another SA forumite with a drum sander might help out.

then there's issues around clamping and cutting out which we can discuss later.

Originally Posted by chrisinoz

I am going to need a thicknesser and I have read a bit on the available ones and I like what i read about the Jet12. https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...hicknesser-12# (mainly be using it for pine)

I'm not sure what carbatech mean by "light duty applications"
it could mean, a few minutes per hour, or it could mean a total of a few hours over the machine's life time.
To my mind, "heavy duty" would be 3mm cuts in 300mm wide hardwood, and "light duty" 1mm cuts in 150mm wide pine.
It will be well worthwhile understanding this before you make your purchase.

You can thickness material thinner than 5mm if you first put a melamine board in the bed of the planner.

for what you want to do, you will have to join two narrower boards to get 400mm wide material -- which after glue up will be too wide for that thicknesser and will require final flattening and dimensioning either by hand or through a drum sander.

Originally Posted by chrisinoz

Finally I will need a table saw. Only found good write ups on the dewalt one, but I came across one at carbatec which seems it will fit the bill for me. (Rip and crosscut)

https://www.carbatec.com.au/machiner...te-saw-2-boxes

be aware that that saw is sold as a work site saw. Repeatable cuts, sure, but job site accuracy is a millimetres and degrees away from the accuracy required for furniture work.

compared to some of the cheaper mitre and table saws, I can saw more accurately by hand (without resorting to using the First class techniques)

your "home work" is to read this article -- Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Newsletter Vol. 1, Issue 5

Hi Ian

Thanks for your reply. Food for thought. I am going to rethink if I want to do an inlay at this point. If I do I will post back on that.

Originally Posted by ian

I'm not sure what carbatech mean by "light duty applications"
it could mean, a few minutes per hour, or it could mean a total of a few hours over the machine's life time.
To my mind, "heavy duty" would be 3mm cuts in 300mm wide hardwood, and "light duty" 1mm cuts in 150mm wide pine.

I talked to them about this and they said it was very good for pine and some hardwood also. Since pine is nearly all I would use it for I went ahead and bought it.

Originally Posted by ian

You can thickness material thinner than 5mm if you first put a melamine board in the bed of the planner.

Thanks for the tip

Originally Posted by ian

be aware that that saw is sold as a work site saw. Repeatable cuts, sure, but job site accuracy is a millimetres and degrees away from the accuracy required for furniture work. Compared to some of the cheaper mitre and table saws, I can saw more accurately by hand (without resorting to using the First class techniques)

your "home work" is to read this article -- Lee Valley Tools - Woodworking Newsletter Vol. 1, Issue 5

Well I did my homework and so will get myself a good sawyer and a few chisels. I have also decided to drop the site saw as I see it is more for general joinery work but, still wanting a table saw I eventually bought the DeWalt DW745 1850 watt. I saw it at Bunnings at 899..too much for me..then saw it online elsewhere at 749.00 delivered, so went to Bunnings who had it in stock and they did a price match plus 10% discount and I got it for 675.00. One happy chappy here.

Thanks Ian for advice on the saw.

Cheers