Installing inset drawer faces process

**Dewayne** · 9th October 2008, 04:40 PM

Installing inset door and drawer faces can be a challenge. Getting a consistent gap all around the inset door or drawer face is critical for appearance and function. I recently built a dresser with inset drawer faces and was faced with this challenge. To complicate things further the drawer boxes where not accessible in the closed position for the purpose of attaching the faces to the drawer box and the guides I used can not be pulled out easily to allow a temporary double stick tape bond. I designed and built the case with dust frames between each drawer compartment and the back of the case is a frame and panel assembly.

After a bit of thought and stomping about like a mad rooster here is what I came up with to solve the problem. First of all the target gap around the drawer face is 1/8" so shims are used to set the gap. Double stick carpet tape temporarily holds the face on to the box. Twine or cord is placed around the back of the drawer box for the purpose of pulling the drawer out without pulling the face off.

I tie the cord off, pull the drawer out and tack with brads from the interior. Then the drawer is removed and the face secured with screws. Success! the end result was a pleasing consistent gap around the drawer faces.

**Wood Borer** · 9th October 2008, 05:00 PM

A simple solution with excellent results - thanks for sharing it with us.

**Arron** · 9th October 2008, 07:50 PM

thats similar to what I do except that I use hot melt glue rather then double sided tape. I put the glue on the drawer, push the drawer-front on and move it around till satisfied (I get a second or two of movement before the glue cools). Then I remove the drawer/drawer front assembly as one piece. The hot melt glue makes sure the assembly is easy to remove and dosent move around as I move it to the workbench and apply the screws. Afterwards, I can disassemble and remove the hot melt glue, but in practice I usually just leave it there if it hasnt created an obvious gap.

This dispenses with the requirement for the cord and elminates the risk that the drawer face will move on the double sided tape, however slightly.

regards
Arron

**munruben** · 9th October 2008, 11:15 PM

Nice work. Looks great.

**BobR** · 10th October 2008, 08:42 AM

Love the chest of drawers. Well done.

**Bob38S** · 10th October 2008, 11:56 AM

You've got to love the simple solutions

Cost = nil to negligible

Result = great to perfect

Frustration level -- before solution = high; after solution = nil

Thanks

**eddie the eagle** · 12th October 2008, 09:50 AM

This would work well,

It's also done by putting a brad through the front of the drawer (not the false front.)

Leave the point sticking out about 1mm, pointing towards the front of the carcase (ie: head of the brad is inside the drawer.)

Push drawer into position, locate false front - gap is more often 1mm, so an offcut of wood from the saw works well, or a couple of veneer scraps to set gap between drawer front and drawer blade/carcase side/carcase divider.

When all good, push the drawer front onto the brads. Position marked accurately

Take out drawer front, take out brads, drill a clearance hole in the drawer front (where the brad passed through it,) and a pilot hole to a suitable depth in the back of the false front. (Centred on the hole that the tip of the brad made.)

Screw it together and you're done.

Cheers,

eddie.

**pugwash** · 15th October 2008, 04:19 PM

Isn't it amazing how the simplest, most elegant solutions to problems are always the best?
Well done. I particularly love the handles.

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