Thread: How to jigsaw in from an outline to account for carpet over ply

I would use 80 or 120 grit to scuff sand. The 400 grit is more like polishing.

Just get it fitting in neatly, then scrbe around using a 7 mm packer or similar pressed against the surface you want to be parallel to, and mark on the other surface of the packer. Hold the packer and the pencil together ( you could tape them together) and mark all around,including any cut outs. Gets it perfectly parallel and the carpet will fit in neatly. I’ve just done a fitout on a pantech truck for a motorsport enthusiast, and we did sheets of ply the same, came up a treat.

Cut a piece of cardboard and trim it (or stick pieces on) to get the fit/clearance you want. Then you have a template.

thanks for the responses

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

Just get it fitting in neatly, then scrbe around using a 7 mm packer or similar pressed against the surface you want to be parallel to, and mark on the other surface of the packer. Hold the packer and the pencil together ( you could tape them together) and mark all around,including any cut outs. Gets it perfectly parallel and the carpet will fit in neatly. I’ve just done a fitout on a pantech truck for a motorsport enthusiast, and we did sheets of ply the same, came up a treat.

Woodscribe.JPG

2 in 1 woodworking straight line linear arc scriber tool with pencil scribe tool draw circle straight tool Sale - Banggood.com

one of those would make it really easy!

but do you mean this

homemade scribe with packer.JPG

what do you think of the glue suggestion? and how best to lay it out on the board prior to using the v trowell

The Bangood device could give an accurate outline for straight sections and convex curves similar to the table top in the pic above, however your pic of the rubber mat a few posts above shows a pocket and a concave curve on each side of the mat which the device cannot cope with accurately. From the advice above, transfer the mat shape to a piece of cardboard and trim until it is a good fit, then mark out the offset on it with a packer (something the thickness that you want to offset) and pencil, then trim off the offset to create a template that you can use to mark out and cut your plywood.

Originally Posted by DaleBlack

thanks for the responses

Woodscribe.JPG

2 in 1 woodworking straight line linear arc scriber tool with pencil scribe tool draw circle straight tool Sale - Banggood.com

one of those would make it really easy!
....

Any marking gauge, cutting gauge or pencil gauge would also work, but not be as over-engineered as that one. But I agree with Malb!

Originally Posted by DaleBlack

thanks for the responses



Woodscribe.JPG

2 in 1 woodworking straight line linear arc scriber tool with pencil scribe tool draw circle straight tool Sale - Banggood.com

one of those would make it really easy!

but do you mean this

homemade scribe with packer.JPG

what do you think of the glue suggestion? and how best to lay it out on the board prior to using the v trowell

that second idea is exactly what I meant.
The gluing is straight forward, after cutting the carpet to approximate size, including enough to wrap around and under the edge by 50 mm, trowel the glue onto the board then lay the carpet onto it, coating it with glue, then roll the carpet off to allow the glue to set for a minute, then roll the carpet back onto the ply, and roll it down with a rolling pin or similar. Then you can flip the board over and brush some glue onto the edge and underneath to glue the tucks on. Pre-cut the corners first so you’re not trying to cut while the contact is sticky to everything. A few staples will help hold the tucks on too. You can trim the underside off straight and neat later

What Riverbuilder said ^^^
You can get contact adhesive in an aerosol can or a alternative cheap option is to buy the cheapest liquid nails at the big green shed and gun it onto the board and spread with a notched spreader .
Glue the face first then lay it face down and deal with the edges and underside after

Originally Posted by Beardy

What Riverbuilder said ^^^
You can get contact adhesive in an aerosol can or a alternative cheap option is to buy the cheapest liquid nails at the big green shed and gun it onto the board and spread with a notched spreader .
Glue the face first then lay it face down and deal with the edges and underside after

thanks again for the replies, after speaking with Dunlop I am going to move to

https://media.prod.bunnings.com.au/a...625?v=dcb5c294

®DUNLOP ARTIFICIAL GRASS ADHESIVE is a high strength all weather adhesive suitable for indoor and outdoor use. With excellent water and heat resistance it will bond securely to a wide variety of substrates and is ideal for installations around swimming pools, balconies and outdoors which may be subject to moisture after installation

Dunlop 1L Artificial Grass Adhesive | Bunnings Warehouse

It waterproofs within 48 hours apparently.

I just need to ensure that if the carpet can not breathe ie is it stiff backed, can air flow through it, can i breathe through it as a test, then yes leave it for the 1 min described above or until it becomes tacky such that the water and other volatile compounds can evaporate out otherwise it will remain perpetually moist. This carpet is stiff backed and you cant seem to breathe through it easily so it will require that.

beyond this the combo of

1. marine ply over mdf
2. a waterproof adhesive
3. spill resistant carpet

is about the best i can achieve? for when the inevitable jerry can of water leak occurs.

Contact is the best glue for this, just buy a tin of the gel one ,it comes in handy for lots of stuff,and lasts for ages in the tin.

What i didnt ask, is given the marine carpet has ribs, what direction do you prefer the ribs to go.

Left to right or up and down, from the point of view of standing at the rear of the car looking forward to the front of the car.

I feel like left to right ribs helps stop luggage or fridges etc sliding forward and out of the rear of the car? but front to back aids sliding items in and out