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Thread: Joining end to end
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5th April 2006, 04:25 PM #1
Joining end to end
I have been asked to make a 7 metre long benchtop. To do so, I need to join some mountain ash pieces of 2 by 4 end to end. I haven't done this before and from what I can tell my best option is a 1-3/8” finger joint bit? I'm not quite sure how that would work though?
Any help appreciated
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5th April 2006, 04:31 PM #2
Dovetailed would look good too.
Bob Willson
The term 'grammar nazi' was invented to make people, who don't know their grammar, feel OK about being uneducated.
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5th April 2006, 04:35 PM #3
I'd just use biscuits.
If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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5th April 2006, 04:40 PM #4
Or good ol' T&G/M&T butt-joints. For slightly better strength (and a different visual effect) you could cut the butt ends at 45° or so to get a bit more glue-up area.
- Andy Mc
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5th April 2006, 04:41 PM #5
Finger joint works well.
use a waste piece clamped each side of the cut to prevent chip out as the timber goes thru the cutters.
Horizontal joint will show only a pencil line, not the fingers.Hooroo.
Regards, Trevor
Grafton
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5th April 2006, 06:38 PM #6
If the joint is to be exposed, then I'd go with Bob W's suggestion of using dovetails.
A different solution might be to use a scarf joint as used by wooden boatbuilders to fabricate very long lengths. It's simply a form of mitre joint, but with very long edges at 10 ~ 15o which provides a long glue line almost on the long grain.
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5th April 2006, 08:16 PM #7
Strongest and keeping it simple would be a halflap joint about 3-4" long, to add extra strength you could angle the ends and shoulders.
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5th April 2006, 08:24 PM #8.
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Instead of joining two 3.5mt tops together, why not stagger the 2x4`s. It will make transport harder as you will have one long bench, but it will be stronger and look heaps better
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5th April 2006, 08:55 PM #9
Overlap each second one by sat 150 mm kind of like stitching and from each outside edge drill 2 holes as far as you trust yourself to drill straight and put in a dowel. You could also do it in sections from the centre out and insert dowels as you go overlapping till you get to the width you need.
RossRoss"All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.
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5th April 2006, 10:49 PM #10
Actually I thing Lignum has described it better than I but for the inclusion of dowels
RossRoss"All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.
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6th April 2006, 03:37 AM #11
I like the staggering idea from Lignum.
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6th April 2006, 07:50 AM #12.
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My idea of staggering it would look random just like a hardwood floor looks.
But if you want to make it cleaner and a smart look, the way Ross described would be better. Have your first 4 x 2 at 3.65mt and the next but joined at 3.35mt, the two peices directly behind would be at 3.35mt and 3.65mt. Just keep going like that untill the desired width has been reached. It would be like a giant finger join, and very, very strong, and look real smart. It would be nice if you could contact the timber yard and try and get a 7mt peice just for the front to keep the lines clean, but if you cant it wouldnt matter, but would look nice
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6th April 2006, 02:50 PM #13
Use these to pull butt join together,you can do it on job having drilled your 35mm holes to accomodate.
Quite good to use on breadboard ends,you don't have to glue.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y79...ButtJoiner.jpg
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