Thread: Joining glass to wood

If the glass is just sitting inset into the table top you dont really need to glue it at all. It's not going to go anyplace. Just make the rebate 8mm deep and a couple of mm larger than the glass and drop it into place. When you move the table remove the glass and shift it seperatly.

If you did want to fix it in place a few spots of silicon sealant would hold it, but it would also be visible through the glass.

Is there wood under the glass or have you made a window to look through?

Cheers

Ian

There is wood under the glass. Thanks for the info

If you are able take the table to a glass place and let them cut to fit.

I heard that that was the best way to go - I should try and do that, but I just dont know about the time really. I really dont have much time at all to do this project - but I will look into it.
Thanks for reminding me

Laxation,

The glass shouldnt take to long to cut, will depend on your glasier

Were in Melbourne are you?

This is a computer desk / case I'm building.
It has a piece of glass inset into the desktop like you are thinking of doing.
The computer components sit in a tray underneath.
If you leave the glass just sitting in place it can be removed and special items placed under it for display.



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Cheers

Ian

Couple of things to remember. You need sufficient strength in the glass if there is any airspace under it and airspace in general. If you finish the wood under the glass and the glass touches the surface, it can have the finish bond to the glass over time. Usually a result of sunlight passing through the glass and heating up the finish. My glass supplier has small discs that sit between the glass and surface and form about a 1/16" airspace. You do want to move them every so often or they could discolor the wood (sun bleaching) or in turn stick to the finish

Paul

Originally Posted by Gra

Were in Melbourne are you?

Im in Waverley - I got a quote from Monash glass for $40 for what I need.

Ill look into those little 1/16" pads you said hcb - but at the moment, there is no airspace under the glass. How much will the stain affect the glass? If at all...

Laxation,
those little pads are called "bump ons" and should be available from any good cabinet maker's or glazier's suppliers.

Mick

Originally Posted by laxation

Ill look into those little 1/16" pads you said hcb - but at the moment, there is no airspace under the glass. How much will the stain affect the glass? If at all...

The stain isn't what's going to cause the problem, it's the finish. Over time, the glass could bond to the finish and become permanently attached. I think it's a result of the finish warming up under the glass and actually forming a bond, just as if you applied finish directly to the glass. I have had pieces come into the shop and one-or-twice broken the glass top getting it off the table. The pads keep the two seperated so that doesn't happen.

Paul

Glass sticking problem is variable.
I have a dining room table here that was done in nitro laquer and the glass sheet has been in contact for 10 years. no sign of sticking.
Have seen french polished stuff the same, no problem.

Polyeurathane or other finishes may be a different thing.

the finish would need to be totaly cured in any case. this may take days, week or months depending on the chemistry or mybe never if it some types of oil.

one method was to seat the glass on a felt border 10-15mm wide. ( common in display cases.
or you could machine your rebate so there was a tiny step at the edge. then you could place paper items under the glass if desired.

cheers

Hello all. You should never place any pads under the glass that is sitting on a flat surface as it creates the opportunity for the glass to crack. By resting the glass on a flat surface it is supported under all spots. You will not need any fastening glues or rubber grip stickons because the glass sitting on a flat surface creates a suction that stops it form moving. as well as the size and thickness of your glass piece will weigh enough to stop it moving anywhere.