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Thread: joint filling query
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29th January 2018, 06:23 PM #1Senior Member
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joint filling query
I'm making a small frame out of old oregon for a rustic style vanity unit, and one of my joints has some chips missing which came about because it was originally intended to be the back rather than the front, and it didn't matter.
Now it does, and I'm wondering about the best/easiest way to fill it. I have a dry powder filler that I mix with water to make a paste - forgotten its name without wandering up to the shed right now - but it, like others I've used, tends to leave a stain if you like beyond the boundaries of where I want it once sanding is done. In the past I have painted on a sealer so that any fillers don't get absorbed into the surrounding wood, but is there another way?
Thanks!
John
WoodJoint1.jpg
VanityUnit.JPG
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29th January 2018 06:23 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th January 2018, 07:02 PM #2Woodworking mechanic
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I use Timbermate. It’s available in a range of colours, is water based and dries quickly.
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30th January 2018, 11:44 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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yep timbermate is my chosen method. Takes stain reasonably well and like your powder stuff if it dries out can be reconstituted.
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30th January 2018, 05:17 PM #4rrich Guest
In our home centers there are a couple of brands of "Stainable" wood filler. The products accept stain rather well however you MUST stain. Just a varnish or poly doesn't look that well.
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30th January 2018, 08:40 PM #5Senior Member
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the problem I seem to get is that when I fill the hole, it of course spills over beyond the edge of the hole, and whilst I can sand it all flat, the filler has seeped into the surrounding wood leaving a stain that does not come out unless i sand down below that layer.
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30th January 2018, 10:09 PM #6
Cover the area you want filled with blue painters tape. Cut the area you want to fill out with a sharp knife (scalpel).
This will help fill without spreading, plus the thickness of the tape lets you overfill a bit, so it sands back neatly.
The other option, if you have a fine saw, is to cut a kerf and fit a self-made strip of veneer (using the original timbers offcuts) into the kerf. If your veneer is a bit thick, thats OK, use a sanding block to give it a slight taper, this way when you force it in, it will wedge itself in hard right to the edges, leaving no seam.
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30th January 2018, 10:47 PM #7Woodworking mechanic
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31st January 2018, 10:32 AM #8GOLD MEMBER
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So far I've hardly done any filling but when I did use Timbermate it didn't stain anything. Perhaps you added stain to the fuller and that stain has leeched into places it's not welcome?
They sell Timbermate in a large range of hues to help you match with your wood species. So that would get you half way.
Search YouTube for 'How to colour match with Timbermate' published Aug 2009 by TimbermateGroup.
Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkMy YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE
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31st January 2018, 10:42 AM #9
Can you afford to give that joint a hit with a sander? OK I know you shouldn't, but if you can remove some material at the joint site then just feather back on both sides so its a gradual "drop" to the intersection. Being quite a grainy piece sanding out the chips/holes is masked by the grain.
Filler will always look like filler even if it is a matching colourJust do it!
Kind regards Rod
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