Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Forest Range, SA
    Posts
    165

    Default joint filling query

    I'm making a small frame out of old oregon for a rustic style vanity unit, and one of my joints has some chips missing which came about because it was originally intended to be the back rather than the front, and it didn't matter.

    Now it does, and I'm wondering about the best/easiest way to fill it. I have a dry powder filler that I mix with water to make a paste - forgotten its name without wandering up to the shed right now - but it, like others I've used, tends to leave a stain if you like beyond the boundaries of where I want it once sanding is done. In the past I have painted on a sealer so that any fillers don't get absorbed into the surrounding wood, but is there another way?
    Thanks!
    John
    WoodJoint1.jpg
    VanityUnit.JPG

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,470

    Default

    I use Timbermate. It’s available in a range of colours, is water based and dries quickly.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    829

    Default

    yep timbermate is my chosen method. Takes stain reasonably well and like your powder stuff if it dries out can be reconstituted.

  5. #4
    rrich Guest

    Default

    In our home centers there are a couple of brands of "Stainable" wood filler. The products accept stain rather well however you MUST stain. Just a varnish or poly doesn't look that well.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Forest Range, SA
    Posts
    165

    Default

    the problem I seem to get is that when I fill the hole, it of course spills over beyond the edge of the hole, and whilst I can sand it all flat, the filler has seeped into the surrounding wood leaving a stain that does not come out unless i sand down below that layer.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Cover the area you want filled with blue painters tape. Cut the area you want to fill out with a sharp knife (scalpel).

    This will help fill without spreading, plus the thickness of the tape lets you overfill a bit, so it sands back neatly.

    The other option, if you have a fine saw, is to cut a kerf and fit a self-made strip of veneer (using the original timbers offcuts) into the kerf. If your veneer is a bit thick, thats OK, use a sanding block to give it a slight taper, this way when you force it in, it will wedge itself in hard right to the edges, leaving no seam.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,470

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jabell View Post
    the problem I seem to get is that when I fill the hole, it of course spills over beyond the edge of the hole, and whilst I can sand it all flat, the filler has seeped into the surrounding wood leaving a stain that does not come out unless i sand down below that layer.
    Cant say i’ve had that problem with Timbermate. It’s not that liquid to cause staining.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    57
    Posts
    1,315

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Cant say i’ve had that problem with Timbermate. It’s not that liquid to cause staining.
    So far I've hardly done any filling but when I did use Timbermate it didn't stain anything. Perhaps you added stain to the fuller and that stain has leeched into places it's not welcome?
    They sell Timbermate in a large range of hues to help you match with your wood species. So that would get you half way.
    Search YouTube for 'How to colour match with Timbermate' published Aug 2009 by TimbermateGroup.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,065

    Default

    Can you afford to give that joint a hit with a sander? OK I know you shouldn't, but if you can remove some material at the joint site then just feather back on both sides so its a gradual "drop" to the intersection. Being quite a grainy piece sanding out the chips/holes is masked by the grain.
    Filler will always look like filler even if it is a matching colour
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

Similar Threads

  1. Joint gap filling suggestions
    By brendan.smith in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28th September 2013, 10:24 AM
  2. Mitre joint with biscuit joint
    By hsc07ww in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 30th November 2006, 10:10 AM
  3. Filling Gaps in Sliding Dovetail Joint?
    By lyptus in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 26th May 2006, 06:28 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •