Thread: M&T joint - Tenon accruacy

Did I mention I used to cut them this way on a Triton?!!

Why not try cutting your tenons by hand, use good marking tools, use them carefully and then use sharp HAND tools to cut your tenons.... unless you are doing a LOT of tenons then you will possibly find that without having to fart about setting up your wobbly old trituns you might be just as fast and in the process you might just learn a little about the basics of true woodworking and not so much woodmachining!

Haven't you got a boat to build or something?

ohhhh, yooou ,,,,,,sexy bald man

Originally Posted by Christopha

Why not try cutting your tenons by hand, use good marking tools, use them carefully and then use sharp HAND tools to cut your tenons.... unless you are doing a LOT of tenons then you will possibly find that without having to fart about setting up your wobbly old trituns you might be just as fast and in the process you might just learn a little about the basics of true woodworking and not so much woodmachining!

I'm glad someone had the guts, other than myself, to describe the Trituns as 'Wobbly'......yeh, thats my impression of them too....... ....though(backpeddling now) I've never had one so they may be more stable than they look

Though I still prefer to cut tennons on table saw......sawing down hard end grain with a tenon saw is not easy to do well (at least for me).....they always look a bit ratty no matter how hard you squint......

Originally Posted by Rocker

Ross,

I am puzzled as to how the inaccuracy you refer to arises, when you cut tenon shoulders by the method I advocate, with the end of the workpiece running agaist the fence. If the end of the workpiece is square to the edge that is held against the mitre gauge, if your saw's fence is parallel to the blade, and if your mitre gauge's 90-degree angle is accurate and its bar is a is a snug fit in its slot, I can't see how things could go wrong. I would suggest getting a high-quality mitre gauge such as a Kreg.

Alternatively, if you don't want to spend the money to get the Kreg, you should be able to cut accurate tenon shoulders that need no touching up by clamping a stop block to a cross-cut sled, and butting the square end of the workpiece against that.

Rocker

Rocker it puzzles me too but I dont as you say have a decent Mitre Gauge and sleds dont work on my saw asthe 2 mitre slots are almost impossible to adjust parrallel One is on a sliding table and the have a sloght convergence.
I love the saw but for this problem and a fence system. I am sure it can all be fixed with money but I aint got none of that!!!

Ross

Cross cut sled is the way to go if cutting tenons on a tablesaw.

I built a cot a couple of years ago with 96 M&T joints in it. Sled worked great.

Then a year later I built another cot with Br-in-Law and used a horizontal router table (built with plans from FWW). This is the ultimate way to cut tenons leaving clean shoulders and great gluing surfaces.

Added to the horizontal table a slide table (in and out to the router bit) and now cut a lot of my mortises this way also.

Shannon