Thread: Jointer - Basic Info needed

That's not what a jointer is for. You could mark a line and joint down to the line but it is difficult to control the depth of cut and keep it even.
Just adjust the fence on your table saw and run it through again or move your guide and run the circ saw over it again.
A jointer is for initial preparation of stock not final dimensioning. You use it to get one face flat and one edge at the desired angle to the flat face.(usually 90°)
You could use a hand plane to trim your workpiece down to size as well. Just take your time and check the size often as you get close.

What he said.
Use a hand plane for 1/16 easier and more than likely more acurate as well.
Peter

I would, mate...
But, I'm cutting on the 3/4" side. I won't be able to keep it steady. It'll wobble left to right.

Any ideas what I can do about this?

Originally Posted by _fly_

What he said.
Use a hand plane for 1/16 easier and more than likely more acurate as well.
Peter

Aww, bummer. Thanks for the info!

Any idea about my above post, and keeping the planer level/straight?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

That's not what a jointer is for. You could mark a line and joint down to the line but it is difficult to control the depth of cut and keep it even.
Just adjust the fence on your table saw and run it through again or move your guide and run the circ saw over it again.
A jointer is for initial preparation of stock not final dimensioning. You use it to get one face flat and one edge at the desired angle to the flat face.(usually 90°)
You could use a hand plane to trim your workpiece down to size as well. Just take your time and check the size often as you get close.

You could use a fence on your plane. Do a google search for Stanley 386 to get an idea of what you need. I have seen planes with holes drilled in the side to screw a fence on.
Or you could work out a way to clamp it in place.

A common way of keeping a plane stable when hand planeing an edge is to hang the fingers of both hands onto the work while traveling the length of the cut. This lowers the centre of gravity. Do it a few times and you'll do it every time.

Originally Posted by Ball Peen

A common way of keeping a plane stable when hand planeing an edge is to hang the fingers of both hands onto the work while traveling the length of the cut. This lowers the centre of gravity. Do it a few times and you'll do it every time.

I was taught to do this, just keep fingers behind the blade.
Your fingers act as a guide to the plane, and if behind the blade no chance of getting cut.

Originally Posted by icor1031

I have 3/4" plywood / MDF.
When I get a cut that's slightly too wide, for example if I'm aiming for 15" but I get 15" & 1/16", can I use a jointer to cut on the edge of the plywood (the 3/4" area) to bring my cut down to 15"?

Or, do I have to get a jointer that's specifically marked as "jointer/planer?"

Thanks.

how are you cutting your 15" strip
a table saw
a track saw
a circ saw plus home made guide
??

depending on the tool you are using, the 1/16" over width could just be technique

Originally Posted by Handyjack

I was taught to do this, just keep fingers behind the blade.
Your fingers act as a guide to the plane, and if behind the blade no chance of getting cut.

I think the OP might be using an electric plane

Originally Posted by ian

I think the OP might be using an electric plane

I did say hand plane. Not advisable with a power plane.

Incor, I think I understand your problem. You made the cut with a hand held circular saw ? Now you want to trim it to a dimention with a power plane ?

This is site work, put the panel flat on some stools ( horses) and plane to the line. You will just have to eyeball the power plane square to the edge. Move the planer along the edge a few times with NO power to get a feel for what square feels like. Clamp the work.

Also seek someone experienced to help. Be safe.

I saw some power planers with a fence. I just assumed the fence wouldn't be enough support to keep it straight.

But since you suggest it,

Would a power planer with a fence work well for what I'm doing?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by NCArcher

You could use a fence on your plane. Do a google search for Stanley 386 to get an idea of what you need. I have seen planes with holes drilled in the side to screw a fence on.
Or you could work out a way to clamp it in place.

Hello icor1031,
the power planer with a fence will do it. You could add a timber face to the fence to make it as large as you need. A router with a straight cut bit and straight edge is another way. Both have the tendency to chip out grain at the end of the cut with ply.
Tony.

Originally Posted by icor1031

I saw some power planers with a fence. I just assumed the fence wouldn't be enough support to keep it straight.

But since you suggest it,

Would a power planer with a fence work well for what I'm doing?

Thanks.

not really

If I understand your need correctly, you are cutting 15" wide strips from a sheet of ply using a hand held circular saw.
the best way to do this accurately is to use a track saw like this [ame=http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWS520CK-TrackSaw-59-Inch-102-Inch/dp/B001IMEEEM]Amazon.com: DEWALT DWS520CK 6-1/2-Inch 12-AMP TrackSaw Kit with 59-Inch and 102-Inch Track: Home Improvement[/ame]
but I'm guessing you don't want to outlay the $ to get one -- and I agree they are expensive

however, you can achieve similar results using your circ saw and a straight plywood guide.
the long edge of a new sheet of ply straight out of the factory should be straight. Rip off a 12" wide strip and use the factory edge as a straight edge to guide the base plate of your circ saw when cutting subsequent strips.
with careful measuring you should be able to rip strips with a consistent width -- i.e. without the need to rip oversize and then trim to the exact width required.