Thread: Jointer help

How thick is the board?

Are you planing concave side facing down or up? -- it should be down

when you place pressuer on teh piece on the outfeed table do you keep the pressure close to the knives or do you move down the table with the pressure?

Might want to throw a straight edge over the two tables to make sure they aren't out of whack across the length of the machine.

Craig.

Originally Posted by ian

How thick is the board?

Are you planing concave side facing down or up? -- it should be down

when you place pressuer on teh piece on the outfeed table do you keep the pressure close to the knives or do you move down the table with the pressure?

The board is about 22mm thick and I'm planing concave down so that it should take material off the front and end. Flipping it over would cause it to "rock" on a level surface so that's not the side to plane. Correct?
I was actually thinking about hand pressure earlier. I was putting pressure with my left hand towards the end of the outfeed table and basically just pushing gently with my right at the end of the piece. I try a different technique.

Originally Posted by CMB

Might want to throw a straight edge over the two tables to make sure they aren't out of whack across the length of the machine.

Craig.

I''ll check that. Thanks guys.

Originally Posted by Blackstar1099

The board is about 22mm thick and I'm planing concave down so that it should take material off the front and end. Flipping it over would cause it to "rock" on a level surface so that's not the side to plane. Correct?

correct

I was actually thinking about hand pressure earlier. I was putting pressure with my left hand towards the end of the outfeed table and basically just pushing gently with my right at the end of the piece. I try a different technique.

GET A PUSH BLOCK AND USE IT -- sorry to shout, but get your right hand out of the path of the knives

you want to exert downwards pressure in the first 200 to 300mm of the outfeed table
I think your technique is ever so slightly tipping the far end of the board up as it passes over the knives

I'm VERY careful where my hand is but yes I'll use push blocks. What do you use to lubricate the tables with? The reason I had to use my hands is the push blocks don't grip enough. The issue I have is that I need to glue fretboards to the face I'm planing so obviously I can't have any wax or oil residue left on the wood.

To me it sounds like the table alignment is the issue, the outfeed table is low at the far end, so as you push the board across the cutters and onto the outfeed and continue to move over the outfeed you are effectively reducing the depth of cut at the tail end of the board, the guy that set yours up at the factory must have set mine up as well cos I had the same problem, I just had a quick look at the cattle dog and I can't see any form of adjustment, looks like that machine will have table hieght movement that is on a dovetail with no form of table coplanar adjustment.

Make sure the is no looseness in the dovetail slides, on both tables , there should be adjusters on on side. If you do adjust these don't do them up that tight that you cant then move the tables up or down, there is the just right amount of tightness.

As has been suggested get a straightedge and place over both infeed and outfeed tables and see if there is any gap, make sure the tables are level at the cutter, check this also with straightedge, (SE) be as accurate as you can here, I do this by sound and feel, start with the se on the infeed and move the se over to the outfeed by 10mm or so, if it 'clunks' and runs into the outfeed the outfeed is too high, if it moves over with no noise and you can then lift the rear of the se up until it contacts the outfeed the outfeed is too low, when they are level there will be just the slightest 'tink' as the se moves over onto the outfeed, proceed to move the se over onto the outfeed and my thinking here is that there will be a gap opening up towards the tail end of the outfeed, maintain full contact with the infeed tho as you check this.

Hope this is not too much sucking eggs but it might be helpful, let us know how you go.


Pete

Forgot to say but I lub my tables up with a rub of candle wax and then rub vigoursly with a rag to remove wax but leave a smooth polish surface.

In brief ... outfeed table is level with the highest point of travel of the knives.
Infeed table level with the outfeed table initially, then adjust downwards by ... 0.5mm, 1mm, ...

Have you watched this video? (download and watch)
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f101/g...-basics-40903/

Cheers,
Paul

Trying to slip the corner of a thin bit of paper under the straight edge will show any low spots.

Originally Posted by Blackstar1099

I'm VERY careful where my hand is but yes I'll use push blocks. What do you use to lubricate the tables with? The reason I had to use my hands is the push blocks don't grip enough. The issue I have is that I need to glue fretboards to the face I'm planing so obviously I can't have any wax or oil residue left on the wood.

As Pete mentioned re lubing the tables, candle wax is fine. I personally only use this during machining as a top-up though. At the end of a session, I treat all my cast surfaces with something like finishing wax or Silbergleit. With both, it requires a thin coat over the entire surface, left to dry and then buffed. This way it's ready to go for next time and also creates a protective barrier that prevents surface rust forming while the machine/s are sitting idle. If left to dry properly before buffing and/or using the machine, only miniscule amounts should transfer to your timber and shouldn't cause any issues. If your still concerned, a light blocking with 180 or 240 would remove any residue.

I would not recommend silicone spray or the like as it leaves a residue that will penetrate the timber and repel glues and finishes.

Craig.

Originally Posted by ian

GET A PUSH BLOCK AND USE IT -- sorry to shout, but get your right hand out of the path of the knives

Whenever I've had concerns about people getting fingers close to blades etc, I ask if they would be equally prepared to put their crown jewels in as much danger. Gets them thinking a bit and doesn't take long for them to correct their technique.

Craig.

Originally Posted by CMB

I ask if they would be equally prepared to put their crown jewels in as much danger.

Would that involve pushing with your knees?

Yes, it is good manners to keep your fingers away from your crown jewels....and others for that matter.

Originally Posted by rustynail

Yes, it is good manners to keep your fingers away from your crown jewels....and others for that matter.

Only when in public. What we do in our workshops is at our own discretion.

Then I trust you work alone