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  1. 19th August 2008, 12:31 AM #1
    5teve
    5teve is offline Member
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    Default kitchen cabinet.. design help please

    Hi guys

    hope this is in the right section

    Just designing a laundry fitout for home and am looking at making some wall hung units to increase storage, my question is

    how does the carcass get constructed? the kitchen ones that we have are made up from a solid back with a top and bottom panel full width attached to the back panel face and the verticals fit between the top and bottom panels (screws are not visible due to a secondary panel with vinyl wrap on), however most i have seen have been the opposite with the vertical panels being full height and the top and bottom attached between these (meaning the screws can be hidden also)

    being in the laundry i want it to hold some weight and the plan is just to screw into the wall with some decent wall plugs (i mean decent) as per the existing cupboards in the kitchen (they are huge and havent fallen yet!)

    material will be Moisture resistant (cough cough) particle board (profuse apologies for mentioning that material )

    thanks in advance

    Steve
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  3. 19th August 2008, 12:48 AM #2
    DJ’s Timber's Avatar
    DJ’s Timber
    DJ’s Timber is offline Hoarder of Timber
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    Default

    Always seen them with full length sides and back with the tops and bottoms fitted inside, that way the screws have to bend or break for the bottom to fall out.
    Cheers

    DJ

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  4. 19th August 2008, 12:55 AM #3
    5teve
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    yeah that was my thinking but then my untrusting side also said that the particle board would split long before the screws bent or sheared, so would screw pullout force be stronger than the force required for splitting the particle board? hence the full top and bottom

    just my brain thinking! thanks for the reply too

    Steve
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  5. 3rd November 2008, 10:01 AM #4
    Johncs
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5teve View Post
    yeah that was my thinking but then my untrusting side also said that the particle board would split long before the screws bent or sheared, so would screw pullout force be stronger than the force required for splitting the particle board? hence the full top and bottom

    just my brain thinking! thanks for the reply too

    Steve
    My wife's sewing cabinet is constructed that way, but with dowels not screws. The bottom (veneered chipboard) did split, probably when in transit, we've moved house too many times over the years.

    Even a small trench would probably have preserved it.
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  6. 3rd November 2008, 10:42 AM #5
    Papa
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    PB would be my last choice for a damp location, but if you must.

    I would mortise the sides and leave some stock at the bottom for
    support. Glue with a good water proof, Titebond III and let the
    glue set and put in a few small finish nails for good measure.
    rabbit in the back and glue, put the hanger board in and glue it
    to the back and nail to the top, I would use a real board for the
    hanger.

    Add a nice face and doors and you have a cabinet. I would rabbit
    the back of the face and glue and nail to the box.
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  7. 3rd November 2008, 12:14 PM #6
    Johncs
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    Papa. what are those slanted lines through the joints?
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  8. 3rd November 2008, 12:40 PM #7
    Papa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johncs View Post
    Papa. what are those slanted lines through the joints?
    Small finishing nails in pre-drilled holes.
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  9. 3rd November 2008, 08:13 PM #8
    SCJ
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    All my kitchen cupboards are built with the top and base between the ends. A solid 16mm back. If you use screws and an adhesive suited to whiteboard, it wont fail. I test this method out with my vanity units suspended to the wall only, by standing on them.
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