Thread: Kreg jointer jig

I've used it few times.. made a bbq table out of merbau for a mate (had some merbau offcuts from when we did his decking)
Few things with it...
Ensure you drill at adequate depth (I've used few scraps and did some test drillng and screwing) very easy to set up
Must clamp firmly... made 90 deg jig on a work bench plus few clamps did the job...
Essentially must be clamped very well so that there is absolutely no movement during drilling / screwing..

Pro's
Very fast and sturdy joins...
Easy to use and set depth of hole
Can plug hole

Con's
Material has to be well clamped before doing anything otherwise work may move..
Drill bit might create some tear outs so even the plug might not fully cover it
Plugs are still visible

Overall
Good for quick joins especially on material difficult to glue (like merbau).. easy to use... the trade off that holes is quite visible even with optional plugs used... Best use is underneath out of sight screwing.. (ie under the top of the bench)

Don't do it. As a furniture maker it gets me so worked up seeing people using these things. If you want to make something that looks cheap, go for it. If you want something that looks professional, buy a dowelling jig; no plugs, no tearout, just properly made joints.

As for difficult timber to glue, I challenge anyone to show me a timber that polyurethane won't stick together.

I can't comment on their use for real joinery, I'm more a plywood and MDF hacker, but here's a comparison of the strength of pocket hole joints vs other types.
http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html

Originally Posted by Prle77

I've used it few times.. made a bbq table out of merbau for a mate (had some merbau offcuts from when we did his decking)
Few things with it...
Ensure you drill at adequate depth (I've used few scraps and did some test drillng and screwing) very easy to set up
Must clamp firmly... made 90 deg jig on a work bench plus few clamps did the job...
Essentially must be clamped very well so that there is absolutely no movement during drilling / screwing..

Pro's
Very fast and sturdy joins...
Easy to use and set depth of hole
Can plug hole

Con's
Material has to be well clamped before doing anything otherwise work may move..
Drill bit might create some tear outs so even the plug might not fully cover it
Plugs are still visible

Overall
Good for quick joins especially on material difficult to glue (like merbau).. easy to use... the trade off that holes is quite visible even with optional plugs used... Best use is underneath out of sight screwing.. (ie under the top of the bench)

Thank you Prle77 for such a detailed report, your post did confirm that the work has to be well clamped, as I seen on a YouTube video on the jig


Thanks Colbra

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Don't do it. As a furniture maker it gets me so worked up seeing people using these things. If you want to make something that looks cheap, go for it. If you want something that looks professional, buy a dowelling jig; no plugs, no tearout, just properly made joints.

As for difficult timber to glue, I challenge anyone to show me a timber that polyurethane won't stick together.

Thank you elanjacobs for your input on my question!..... I will keep my eye opened for pictures of your work I am only an old man in his back shed tying to remember what it was that I was going to do that day

Good luck in your pursuit of making fine furniture reguards colbra









elanjacobs

Originally Posted by colbra

Thank you Prle77 for such a detailed report, your post did confirm that the work has to be well clamped, as I seen on a YouTube video on the jig


Thanks Colbra

Clamping on the work piece would certainly help, as would reducing the speed of the driver. I also think if it is absolutely important to be spot on, drilling a pilot with a small bit after using the step drill would often yield very good result.

Thank you justonething for commenting on the my post! I have taken your comments on board.
I am a little puzzled as the drill that comes with the Krege jig fits down into a collar that is the exact size of the drill and the tip of the drill appears to be about 10mm long which guides the drill down into the wood to embed the screw into the timber that you are screwing into.
I stand to be corrected but I would have thought that the actual drill itself would find it very hard to wander off centre I could imagine the screw going of course if you were not carful.
But all will be reviled next week because I have ordered the jig from Carbatec !.... and I will put my experience of using the Kreg jig up on this post

Regards Colbra

Originally Posted by snowyskiesau

I can't comment on their use for real joinery, I'm more a plywood and MDF hacker, but here's a comparison of the strength of pocket hole joints vs other types.
http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html

A man after my own heart Geoff and lately I have been using fence palings and pallets just the thing for the garden furniture thanks for your reply

colbra

Originally Posted by colbra

I am a little puzzled as the drill that comes with the Krege jig fits down into a collar that is the exact size of the drill and the tip of the drill appears to be about 10mm long which guides the drill down into the wood to embed the screw into the timber that you are screwing into.

How's that jig of yours, Colbra?
The step drill doesn't actually pierce through the first piece and so you are relying on the screw itself to drive through the first piece and dig into the second piece to clamp the two pieces together. This means if the rotating speed is too high, the tip of the screw will wonder off course causing misalignment in your work.
I'm pretty sure once you start playing with it, you will work out a way to deal with this. let us know what you think.

Hi justonething
I can not give an update on things just yet... as I have not used the jig, I will take it out to the men shed they are making worm farms for Gosford council, 10 in total that would be a good project to try the jig out on, will have to get some stainless screws. As you said clamp the job down so the screw can not cause any wondering of timber. Will get back with post when there is a result.

Thanks for getting back colbra

Originally Posted by snowyskiesau

I can't comment on their use for real joinery, I'm more a plywood and MDF hacker, but here's a comparison of the strength of pocket hole joints vs other types. http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/pockethole.html

Haha how biased is this video. He didn't even bother to glue the pocket hole joints.

Originally Posted by jenno

Haha how biased is this video. He didn't even bother to glue the pocket hole joints.

I don't think he's being biased jenno. The point of his video is a direct comparison of one type of joint vs another for strength. There are probably dozens of combinations that he didn't cover but that isn't the point either, all these setups take time and effort and it's all too easy to criticize. Perhaps you should do your own video comparison on the ones he missed, i would be happy to watch your work.

Clearly the use of pocket holes is a sensitive topic to woodworkers but if it suits your needs then stick with it, no need to poo poo others that user different methods.

Fair enough. I use pocket hole for quick built long lasting jigs. I always back it up with Titebond 3, have done so for about 6/7 years. All the other joints he tested where glued, as they usually are and for a closer comparison he should have done the same. Also since you on about bagging things, isn't that exactly what he intended to do from the outset? "Must be a cold day in hell". He just was able to blend his negativity in with a shop video to amuse others with his quaint test jigs, tho nicely made they were.
Haters are going to hate, either side of the fence.

He should have tested his joints with these pocket hole screws, the result would have been different