WORKING with LAMINEX

**don282** · 14th July 2012, 07:07 PM

Hi, I made some enquiries some time ago regarding rebuilding a 2nd hand kitchen and all has gone reasonably well, but now I am back to the doors which were covered in Vinyl on both sides which has all peeled or fallen off, someone told me I would have to put laminex on both sides of the doors or they would "cup". I was wondering seeing both sides of the doors are coated with dried contact cement whether it is necessary to coat them both again, I would like to coat the back of them with Automotive white Acrylic lacquer after a quick rub down to just take some of the lumps off. I have tried this on one door without laminex on the other side with no ill efects. The chip board is completley dry and is quite a number of years old and some of the vinyl has only fallen of in the last 12 months and the doors show know sign of cupping and they are dead straight, they have been stored out doors in an old shed.
Any comments would be appreciated,
Many thanks,
don282

**elanjacobs** · 14th July 2012, 08:34 PM

As long as all surfaces are sealed with something you should be fine with laminex on one side only. Not sure if you can contact over contact and sanding the stuff is painful to say the least but I'd be tempted to buy fresh chipboard and redo the doors completely (assuming your budget allows). If you do decide to go in that direction I can source and cut all the panels for you as I work in Moorabbin and have access to the factory at my leisure

**don282** · 14th July 2012, 09:27 PM

Hi Elan, Thanks for the reply. Unfortunatly I am an aged pensioner and new panels are out of the question and also I am 375 km from Melbourne. I will give it a try on one of the panels that I have cut down to make the sizes I need and see how I go , I know that the Acrylic coating works well and will last me out Hi ,so I may be lucky and get the laminex will work as well. I presumed that it would be the adhesive would be my problem but as it is well and truly dry and smooth and it it is as you say sanding it would be a real pain. I will run a post to you and let you know how I go.
Many thanks,
don282

**Christos** · 14th July 2012, 10:31 PM

Just my opinion but I thought that you could remove the adhesive with a thinners. Not sure which one thou.

**elanjacobs** · 15th July 2012, 03:07 AM

Originally Posted by Christos

Just my opinion but I thought that you could remove the adhesive with a thinners. Not sure which one thou.

Lacquer thinners works, but ONLY on non-porous surfaces. Chipboard will absorb it and then you're in a whole world of trouble

**Christos** · 15th July 2012, 09:30 AM

Thanks for the update.

**floody_85** · 15th July 2012, 11:17 AM

Chipboard shouldn't bow as badly as mdf would. We only ever used 16 or 18mm mdf for our doors at work an they are always white melamine one side to prevent cupping. Short doors on chipboard shouldn't bow top much. I would be worried if u had long panty doors. They could easily bow

**SAISAY** · 15th July 2012, 02:27 PM

We used a heat gun to remove the old glue.
Cheers
Wolffie

**Strom** · 15th July 2012, 02:44 PM

Just because the doors are melamine backed does not ensure the door does not
Cup/Bow if you apply Laminate to just one face..

Most times they do, sometimes they don't..
Its the nature of the beast..

**floody_85** · 15th July 2012, 04:26 PM

Originally Posted by Strom

Just because the doors are melamine backed does not ensure the door does not
Cup/Bow if you apply Laminate to just one face..

Most times they do, sometimes they don't..
Its the nature of the beast..

Nothing is guaranteed but we used get a bow when we done brushed aluminium kickers. So we started using white one side and they never bow anymore.

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