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Thread: Leather to chop? Which side out?
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5th October 2019, 09:36 AM #1New Member
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Leather to chop? Which side out?
I’m just about finished my workbench build and have leather to glue to the leg vice chop. I’m leaving the bench leg side wood for the big flat surface.
Which way to glue the leather though - skin side (harder shinier) glued with soft side out, or vice versa? I’ve read and seen suggestions for both, so now I’m in a quandary!
It’s 4.5mm vegetable tanned. Plan to use titebond 3 or maybe pick up some hide glue.
Any suggestions welcomed!!
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5th October 2019 09:36 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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5th October 2019, 09:41 AM #2New Member
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5th October 2019, 09:48 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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That's a beautiful looking bench you have made.
Regards
Adam
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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5th October 2019, 10:16 AM #4.
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5th October 2019, 10:40 AM #5
Hi Matthew
I would use Titebond Liquid Hide Glue. My preference now is “cork rubber”, but this can be harder to find and more expensive, rather than leather. I used leather very happily for many years. Regarding the leather, per se, it does not matter which side you use.
Nice looking bench, and great leg vise - BenchCrafted? What is the idea behind the tool well in the centre of the bench top?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th October 2019, 10:58 AM #6New Member
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Looks like a trip to Carbatec to find some glue. What a pity
thanks for the comments on the bench - it’s been a great project over the last nine months.
The vice is a Hovarter V20 with x brace. Great piece of kit and beautiful quick action.
The tool tray... it seemed like a good idea at the start of the project. I changed the design ALOT after reading Chris Swartz book over Christmas. I fixed most of my design errors, but the tool tray was already part of the project that was not reversible. It is a great spot to leave pencils, awls, marking guages and the like. It’s there so I use it
Just for completeness - it is mostly Jarrah (recycled) with Tuart for thevicechop and deadman runner. It is actually a knock down bench (I rent currently) so flat packs - the stretcher mortises are through bolted and I do so I get four pieces - 2 leg assemblies, 2 stretchers, a bench top and shelf. That would be 6 pieces!
Finished with osmo top oil.
Still think ill use the Leather.... still don’t know which way I change my mind almostly hourly! Maybe the two hour drive to and from Perth will help!
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5th October 2019, 11:17 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Depends on the tanning process. If the leather is "duckmired" (water proof) or "top tinted" (water resistant) it will glue better on the underside.
The top surface of leather is much more abrasion resistant than the underside. Taking these factors into account it would point to top side out.
I use deer hide on my vice chops, top side out and on both chops. The reason for deer hide is because I work a lot with cedar - very soft, so the less force I have to put on the vice the better. Deer hide grips better than most full grain leather as the fibres are more vertical. Hence the flexible nature of deer skin when compared to the more traditional forms of leather.
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5th October 2019, 11:36 AM #8.
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FWIW I used ordinary Sellers contact adhesive and it was still hold strong after 13 years when I decided to change the faces of one vice.
The other vice faces are still holding strong.
It was relatively easy to remove - all that anything more adhesive would do is make it more difficult to remove when it was time to do so.
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5th October 2019, 11:53 AM #9
Another vote for Selleys contact adhesive. I used it to stick roo tail leather onto a timber substrate when I made up a set of strops.
Lovely bench by the OP - very nicely done.
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5th October 2019, 04:56 PM #10
Hi Mathew,
Seriously good looking bench there.
I just used selleys wood glue and 5 years on no signs of the leather coming undone. Contact was going to be my choice but then I thought that one day I may have to replace it. I went rough side out but I do not think it matters either way.
I could however live with bare wood jaws but I just happened to have some leather to hand so only did the end vice to give me an option for clamping more delicate items.
Regards
John
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5th October 2019, 11:30 PM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Is it ethical to use hide glue to glue a hide? Bit like feeding pork to a pig or chicken to a chook?
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6th October 2019, 11:17 AM #12
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8th October 2019, 09:34 AM #13
Just a heads up, like most hobby supplies, finding the industrial application often leads to a cheaper source of the same article. In this instance, rubber bonded cork is used as gaskets, so searching for cork gasket material gives far more affordable results. E.g. $26 for a 510x1270 sheet on ebay. I applied it to two vices, and there is still plenty left over.
Kind regards,
Lance
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8th October 2019, 10:55 AM #14.
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The $26 sheet is cork bonded with SBR
This economical grade of cork is manufactured from cork granules that are bound using an SBR (styrene butadiene rubber) binder. The result is an industrial quality cork sheet which is able to seal well at relatively low gasket seating stress due to low or medium bolt loads.
Premium Grade Nitrile Bonded Cork Gasket Material - 2mm x 510mm x 1270mm | eBay
It costs ~$35 but has all round better properties for a vice. ie will resist tearing and is more chemically resistant than the SBR bonded cork.
I've been using it for about a month - It has about the same grip as leather but don't think it's anywhere near as tough.
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8th October 2019, 11:31 AM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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