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Thread: Keep light oak light.
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30th August 2006, 03:46 AM #1New Member
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Keep light oak light.
Greetings all,
I'm new to this forum so this is my first post.
I'm currently refinishing my kitchen cupboards. Right now they are about 50 years old but in good shape and made of solid oak so I want to revamp them myself rather than pay thousands of dollars for new cupboards. The existing finish is dirty, old looking and quite dark. When I sanded back the wood the oak is nice and light but when I tried a few different types of sealer finishes on the wood it went back to the dark colour again. Granted, it did come up clean, fresh and rich looking and the grain was lovely and colourful but I was hoping to keep it light and no matter what satin finish I put on it the wood goes darker.
Is there anyway I can keep the light oak light and still put a nice satin finish on it.
I've tried a clear Varathane and other oil finishes as well as natural and light coloured stain finishes.
Any suggestions or avenues I haven't tried yet? :confused:
Thanks and cheers
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30th August 2006 03:46 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th August 2006, 04:02 AM #2New Member
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Oops
Sorry admin,
I just found a forum for Finishes and I just realised I should have posted this question in there. Move if need be to appropriate forum and sorry for the mixup.
Cheers
Ann
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30th August 2006, 05:56 AM #3
WB POLY will keep the finish as light as it is in the raw.... NOn yellowing finish, it is and it will resist the oils and grime of a kitchen.
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30th August 2006, 06:09 AM #4New Member
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Thank you Hickory,
I'll give that a try. I'll test patch a clear water based ployurethane finish. (I'm presuming that's what you mean when you said WB POLY).
I'm off to the store now to buy some. Will let you know how it goes.
Cheers
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31st August 2006, 12:20 AM #5
The 'problem' with most water based stuff is that it's water clear, often with a blue tinge and it makes the underlying wood become very cold in appearance.
A sealer coat of blonde shellac should take the edge off the blue, but may make it slightly green changing the problem from cold to sick.
I usually add a touch of red and yellow colour to the poly to warm it up. Works very well, and you don't need much to make it work.
If the straight poly is too cold, try adding some colour to it. If you are still in the 'suck it and see' stage, it can't hurt any.
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1st September 2006, 12:29 AM #6New Member
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The water based poly is working nicely. As it turns out the wood is red oak so there is plenty of warmth in it to compensate for any cold blue tinge in the finish.
I tried an oil based Poly and it added a warm glow to it making it too red so this is working quite nicely.
I also tried using a water based wood sealer first then the WB Poly but the sealer gave it a splotchy dirty appearance so I'm going with the WB Poly straight onto the raw wood and use 3 to 4 coats.
Looking good on my test runs.
Cheers all
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1st September 2006, 08:56 AM #7
I am still finishing our kitchen cupboard doors (a bit like writing war and peace, 4 years so far and still going).
I am using water based poly on the doors, ones coat, one day to dry, cut back gently by hand with some 400 grit wet and dry, reapeat process for as many coats as you wish.
To take off the 'plastic' look I finish off with a good furniture wax.Stupidity kills. Absolute stupidity kills absolutely.
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2nd September 2006, 03:12 AM #8New Member
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Iain, 4 years!!! :eek: That's devotion to the job. I'm sure it will be well worth all the work and the wait when it's all finished.
I just wanted to lighten them without too much effort to make do until we can afford new cabinets so as long as they are lighter than what we have now they'll do for a while.
If I was to get as particular as you are about your cabinets they might look too good and I'd never get new ones so I have to leave them a bit rough looking so hubby buys me new ones down the track sometime.
Cheers - Ann
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