Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    8

    Default Lining brick wall alternatives?

    Folks,

    I have converted the carport into an additional room for the house. I've thought of lining the brick walls internally with wood but the idea of subterranean termites potentially working their way up from the ground to reach the wood rafters is not appealing.

    Gyprock is all well and good but requires two people to install the big sheets and can be involved to install.

    I'm toying with the idea of just using fibre cement boards stuck to the brick wall with Sikabond, and Spakfilla with paper tape for the joins before painting. The advantages of this are several; quicker, far less messy, more durable than Gyprock, and thinner than Gyprock.

    Has anyone in this forum tried this approach or have other ideas?

    Regards,

    Tony

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    330

    Thumbs up Lining Brick Wall

    Tony, I would recommend going for the Gyprock sheets as I believe it will give give you a far acceptable finish after it is painted.
    Using 10mm thick sheets 1200 wide and adhering the sheets direct to the brickwork with dobs of Cornice Cement, one person should be able to handle the sheets. While the cement goes off you may need to provide the odd screw fixings using wall plugs into the bricks along the recess edge. Using recess edge sheets the joints can be flush jointed with paper tape and jointing material. If you check out with the suppliers or Bunnings they have instruction sheets as to how fix the sheets to brickwork.
    The problem with the Fibro Cement Sheets is the sheets need to be at least 6mm thich and even then they would follow any iregularity in the brick face. You would need to use the recess edge sheets. The surface finish would not be to the standard of the Gyprock.
    In regard to termites you would need to consider the posibility of the little devils finding their way up behind the sheets and then into your roof timbers. Consider a 75mm space from the floor to the bottom of the sheets so in future you are able to check to see if there is any termite tracks, perhaps you could have a removable skirting or just paint the exposed brickwork strip black and no skirting.
    Hoe this helps
    Mac

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    3,330

    Default

    I'm awaiting responses to this one with interest as I'll be doing the same soon.

    My experience doing this is limited to one bathroom. The options at the time seemed to be using Rondo Furring channel or masonry cement. I used the cement, but put masonry anchors at intervals just in case. Nothing wrong with the result, and it has held the heavy floor-to-ceiling tiles with no problem. If I did it again, I would probably use the Rondo as it is seemed to be more hassle at the time but probably would have been less so as the walls were fairly uneven.

    A friend did a unit he owns using the Rondo. The only negative he mentioned was that it shrinks the rooms a bit.

    I just used wet area base coat for the joints, or ordinary base coat in the high spots.

    Rondo is here
    http://www.rondo.com.au/tabid/105/Pr...8/Default.aspx

    Would insulation be an issue ?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Glen Forrest, Western Australia
    Age
    62
    Posts
    531

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonywatters View Post

    Gyprock is all well and good but requires two people to install the big sheets and can be involved to install.

    Tony,
    You don't have to put the sheets horizontal you can do vertical which means that one person can handle them.
    The link below is from the Gyprock site and explains the process.
    I used this guide to do a room in my house when I had to cover a brick wall, very helpful
    http://www.gyprock.com.au/downloads/...ystem_f89a.pdf

    Warrick

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Molendinar, QLD
    Age
    52
    Posts
    299

    Smile

    what about having the brickwork cement rendered then painted, will consume the least amount of space.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    8

    Default Problem RE cement rendering

    Two of the carport walls are existing and have existing paint as a result. I have removed 230mm wide vertical strips of paint from the walls every 400mm to create space for adhesive (or whatever) to stick boards to the brick wall. I doubt that cement render would stick to the remaining paint columns on the wall would it? It would also now be difficult to remove the remaining paint as I have built a wooden light box across one wall etc. Also, the adjoining room is now being reused, so dust in the air now needs to be kept down.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Molendinar, QLD
    Age
    52
    Posts
    299

    Default

    Hi Tony,
    Just call someone out of your local paper and explain your situation. The paint may not be a problem or it may be an easy fix.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,130

    Default

    Hi Tony

    I think Mac and Warwick have given you good advice on this. How are the other walls in your house done - gyprock ??

    The bottom line is whether you will pay a little more for the new room to look like a part of your house, or a bodgy garage conversion.

    Finish is everything.

    Cheers

    Graeme

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •