Thread: Now living Bayside Frankston area - rusty tools

yeah my garage is the same.

I woudnt worry too much about rust in the flutes just wire wheel it off as the flute edge doesnt do anything.

My work shop is the same i need to get in the habiy of wd40-ing or wax the tools when i get them. My poor cast iron table saw cops it the worst. Its just remembering to keep the maintenance up

I use a lanolin spray (H&F & Bunnings both have it) on my tools and machine tables. Seems to do the job, and you don't need much.

I live a similar distance from the sea. Yeah lanolin is good. A dip in Paraffin wax (or ay wax) is good too. Consider the repercussions of either being left on your workpiece though. When I get my circular saws sharpened they come back with a rubbery/siliconey thick coating over the teeth which is easily thumbed off, I reckon that’d be a good protection also.

Whilst I don't live near the sea, when I stored tools and machines with cast iron tops in the workshop before I started refitting it, I had a rust problem too from overnight condensation.

That seems to be getting better as I begin to fit out, and insulate the shop, so that's one angle to consider.

I used, and still do use Camellia Oil on anything that's exposed metal (saw blades, cast iron, drills, planes, anything). Whilst it's relatively expensive to buy, the advantage claimed in literature is that any residue won't affect your timber, nor the finish you may apply to it. Whilst I've done nowhere near enough testing to prove that claim, I haven't yet had a situation where it has caused a problem.

I simply keep a small rag with some oil on it, spritz some from the pump bottle, and wipe over with this rag. The rag goes in a sealed jar to keep it fresh and from evaporating. You use very little oil in practice, and it lasts several weeks at least.

I live right on the ocean, so the problem is bad for me. Lanox is what I use on everything.

Also helps to keep tools inside of closed cabinets where possible.

Originally Posted by old_picker

Once showing a dusting of rust on cutting edges I'd reckon they'd be bin material.

Why not just sharpen them?

Plenty of threads here on rust prevention.

I have lived by salt water for 20 years & tried a myriad of rust preventatives for my tools. Far & away the best is G-15.

You can buy from Carbatec.

Better yet - call Jim Davey & see if he can still ship it to you (good to support a small business in the fire affected areas - Jim is a great guy) Not in his online shop, but he usually sells it at the wood shows.
Jim Davey for Premium Woodworking Tools | Falls Creek NSW


Its distributed in Oz by Australian Inhibitor:
G15 Liquid Corrossion Inhibitor | Rust Prevention Spray
(Clarification - G-15 is the local - Oz - name. I believe that they import Daubert Cromwell products & re-brand them)

Buy spray cans, or get it as a bulk liquid.

Everybody gets different rust minimising routines.... fwiw, I’ve found that almost anything will rust with almost any oil/spray, unless you get a bit obsessive. However, phosphoric acid (aka Jenolite) seems to have the longest lasting preventative effects. Given that it also converts/removes extant rust, it’s a no brainer for me: I use an acid soaked rag, and wipe down the whole surface. Then repeat with a very small quantity on the rag to wipe away any etched marks left behind, and I then wipe down the surface with lanolin containing products (‘lanox’) by default...
the only thing to note is that it does change the surface appearance; the metal gets a greyish tinge... but I now love that colour, because I know my iron surfaces are protected...

Bob Smalser mentions that the phosphoric acid treatment was part of the parkerisation treatment developed for military weapons etc in WW2- so you’re following a respectable anti corrosion tradition...(in a previous role, it was my go-to for cleaning heavily carbonised rifle parts...)

Originally Posted by AlexS

I use a lanolin spray (H&F & Bunnings both have it) on my tools and machine tables. Seems to do the job, and you don't need much.

Me, too. Lanoline is far better than WD-40. Ever see a rusty sheep?

And its really kind to your hands - its the active ingredient SWMBO's expensive hand creams.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Ever see a rusty sheep?

Yep

DE29F2B3-A11B-4D04-A8BE-C26D58DD7569.jpeg

G15 is great but I use that for my cast iron table tops and any large surface areas.

For my hand tools I've settled on a quick once over with a Sabitoru rust eraser to clear up any light surface rust, then a coat of camelia oil that I'll leave to soak in for an hour or so. After that I apply a good coat of UBeaut Traditional wax and buff it in.

I sweat like crazy when I'm using my planes in the warmer half of the year and since moving to this routine I've had no problems. Prior to that I was having huge problems with rust developing after just a few hours on the tools. New tools get the same treatment, I've found Veritas to be shocking for rust if they don't get some form of protection once they're out of their boxes and VCI paper. Lie Nielsen fare a bit better but also need some protection or they'll pick up fingerprints.

Thank you all - interesting thread and now have some strategies - have a spray can of Inox so i'll start with that

I'm getting ready for a move far North. Appreciate all the tips here!

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by old_picker

Thank you all - interesting thread and now have some strategies - have a spray can of Inox so i'll start with that

I uze Inox for loosening rusty threads - its good for that. Not so much for rust prevention. When I tried Inox here (years ago) I got about a week before rust started to appear. G-15 - months go by & no rust!