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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
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    Default Now living Bayside Frankston area - rusty tools

    Never had a problem before with rust and my tools. After living down here for two years I've recently noticed a significant some of the tools around the workshop are showing rust. I'm about three k's from Seaford beach. Looking over my drill bits today I notice around 1/3 are showing rust on the edges of the flutes. Its not everything but I reckon another 12 months and they'll be covered in it. Once showing a dusting of rust on cutting edges I'd reckon they'd be bin material.

    Obviously it's the salt in the air and just wondering what is the best way to protect the new ones.
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    NSW
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    35
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    Default

    yeah my garage is the same.

    I woudnt worry too much about rust in the flutes just wire wheel it off as the flute edge doesnt do anything.

    My work shop is the same i need to get in the habiy of wd40-ing or wax the tools when i get them. My poor cast iron table saw cops it the worst. Its just remembering to keep the maintenance up

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
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    74
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    Default

    I use a lanolin spray (H&F & Bunnings both have it) on my tools and machine tables. Seems to do the job, and you don't need much.
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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    2,157

    Default

    I live a similar distance from the sea. Yeah lanolin is good. A dip in Paraffin wax (or ay wax) is good too. Consider the repercussions of either being left on your workpiece though. When I get my circular saws sharpened they come back with a rubbery/siliconey thick coating over the teeth which is easily thumbed off, I reckon that’d be a good protection also.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Hunter Valley
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    Default

    Whilst I don't live near the sea, when I stored tools and machines with cast iron tops in the workshop before I started refitting it, I had a rust problem too from overnight condensation.

    That seems to be getting better as I begin to fit out, and insulate the shop, so that's one angle to consider.

    I used, and still do use Camellia Oil on anything that's exposed metal (saw blades, cast iron, drills, planes, anything). Whilst it's relatively expensive to buy, the advantage claimed in literature is that any residue won't affect your timber, nor the finish you may apply to it. Whilst I've done nowhere near enough testing to prove that claim, I haven't yet had a situation where it has caused a problem.

    I simply keep a small rag with some oil on it, spritz some from the pump bottle, and wipe over with this rag. The rag goes in a sealed jar to keep it fresh and from evaporating. You use very little oil in practice, and it lasts several weeks at least.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    593

    Default

    I live right on the ocean, so the problem is bad for me. Lanox is what I use on everything.

    Also helps to keep tools inside of closed cabinets where possible.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    31
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    5,786

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by old_picker View Post
    Once showing a dusting of rust on cutting edges I'd reckon they'd be bin material.
    Why not just sharpen them?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    741

    Default

    Plenty of threads here on rust prevention.

    I have lived by salt water for 20 years & tried a myriad of rust preventatives for my tools. Far & away the best is G-15.

    You can buy from Carbatec.

    Better yet - call Jim Davey & see if he can still ship it to you (good to support a small business in the fire affected areas - Jim is a great guy) Not in his online shop, but he usually sells it at the wood shows.
    Jim Davey for Premium Woodworking Tools | Falls Creek NSW


    Its distributed in Oz by Australian Inhibitor:
    G15 Liquid Corrossion Inhibitor | Rust Prevention Spray
    (Clarification - G-15 is the local - Oz - name. I believe that they import Daubert Cromwell products & re-brand them)

    Buy spray cans, or get it as a bulk liquid.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Everybody gets different rust minimising routines.... fwiw, I’ve found that almost anything will rust with almost any oil/spray, unless you get a bit obsessive. However, phosphoric acid (aka Jenolite) seems to have the longest lasting preventative effects. Given that it also converts/removes extant rust, it’s a no brainer for me: I use an acid soaked rag, and wipe down the whole surface. Then repeat with a very small quantity on the rag to wipe away any etched marks left behind, and I then wipe down the surface with lanolin containing products (‘lanox’) by default...
    the only thing to note is that it does change the surface appearance; the metal gets a greyish tinge... but I now love that colour, because I know my iron surfaces are protected...

    Bob Smalser mentions that the phosphoric acid treatment was part of the parkerisation treatment developed for military weapons etc in WW2- so you’re following a respectable anti corrosion tradition...(in a previous role, it was my go-to for cleaning heavily carbonised rifle parts...)

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    3,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    I use a lanolin spray (H&F & Bunnings both have it) on my tools and machine tables. Seems to do the job, and you don't need much.

    Me, too. Lanoline is far better than WD-40. Ever see a rusty sheep?

    And its really kind to your hands - its the active ingredient SWMBO's expensive hand creams.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,172

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Ever see a rusty sheep?

    Yep

    DE29F2B3-A11B-4D04-A8BE-C26D58DD7569.jpeg

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,811

    Default

    G15 is great but I use that for my cast iron table tops and any large surface areas.

    For my hand tools I've settled on a quick once over with a Sabitoru rust eraser to clear up any light surface rust, then a coat of camelia oil that I'll leave to soak in for an hour or so. After that I apply a good coat of UBeaut Traditional wax and buff it in.

    I sweat like crazy when I'm using my planes in the warmer half of the year and since moving to this routine I've had no problems. Prior to that I was having huge problems with rust developing after just a few hours on the tools. New tools get the same treatment, I've found Veritas to be shocking for rust if they don't get some form of protection once they're out of their boxes and VCI paper. Lie Nielsen fare a bit better but also need some protection or they'll pick up fingerprints.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
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    Default

    Thank you all - interesting thread and now have some strategies - have a spray can of Inox so i'll start with that
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    31

    Default

    I'm getting ready for a move far North. Appreciate all the tips here!

    Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

  16. #15
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    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_picker View Post
    Thank you all - interesting thread and now have some strategies - have a spray can of Inox so i'll start with that
    I uze Inox for loosening rusty threads - its good for that. Not so much for rust prevention. When I tried Inox here (years ago) I got about a week before rust started to appear. G-15 - months go by & no rust!

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