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  1. #16
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    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
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    Cantilevered racking induces a significant toppling moment to the existing wall. Your existing construction is a very simple nailed stud wall, rafter with no ceiling joists and with minimal strapping. So it is geometrically "weak" in that there is no horizontal bracing to prevent the wall from bowing inwards under the cantilevered load or to prevent the nailed joints from failing. Timber framed walls are designed to with stand dead loads (i.e. the weight of the roof) and lateral loads from wind and NOT to support "significant" cantilevered loads. (& uplift loads if you are in a cyclonic or other high wind region.)

    The simplest and strongest way for you to store that amount of weight of timber against the wall and off the ground would be to construct a couple of timber frames attached to the existing wall framing. Use conventional studs paired to the existing studs with horizontal "bearers" each side of the studs & (batten) screwed or preferably bolted to the wall stud and frame stud to form a "H" or ladder frame. Add a horizontal rail at the lowest shelf and another at the top parallel to the stud wall top plate and a couple of knee braces from the new studs to the top horizontal rail to prevent the frames from "racking" when you slide in the lengths of timber.

    Use something like 70 x 35mm MGP10 UT Pine Timber Framing - 3.0m ($10.50 per length). Any loads on the racking will be distributed as dead loads and will not introduce a toppling moment to the existing structure. This is also an easily removed addition if your needs change.

    This of course means you must have access to at least one end of the frame to load / unload timber. Some what similar to the big green sheds timber racking at the end of the trade area.
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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damienol View Post
    At one end there is the shed wall and 3.6m along (effectively the rack length) there is the mezzanine level with a 200x25 spanning from one side of the shed to the other.

    The rack only comes out 350mm from the studs

    If your mezzanine is appropriately designed and built, (a 200 x 25 beam doesn't sound right, maybe it is 200 x 50 instead), You can install some 100 x 50 joists to tie each wall stud with the timber rack to this beam.

    Alternatively, just support all the open ends of the racks with 100 x 50 studs, so that none of the shelves is cantilevered.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by havabeer69 View Post
    Stack it on the floor using stickers, dont have to worry about anything breaking and will still get the air flow.

    So its 900kg spread over a bunch of studs
    Unfortunately I don’t have the space on the floor to fit 3.6m lengths

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    If your mezzanine is appropriately designed and built, (a 200 x 25 beam doesn't sound right, maybe it is 200 x 50 instead), You can install some 100 x 50 joists to tie each wall stud with the timber rack to this beam.

    Alternatively, just support all the open ends of the racks with 100 x 50 studs, so that none of the shelves is cantilevered.
    Supporting the ends would make it near impossible to access the boards

  6. #20
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    Given the perils of loading this much weight on the walls I am going to have to store the bulk of it on the floor in the garage and keep some of it in the shed ready for use.

    Question now is, how much weight is safe?

    Also, do I need to use stickers between each board on the shelf?

  7. #21
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    I may be missing something, but are you over thinking this? I'd stick the lot at the (out)side of the shed/garage, in the shade. Sticker by ripping bits off the worst board, stick between each good board. cover with a couple of bits of colorbond, bricks to hold down. job done, no wall loads, space in garage, better airflow from external breezes, easier access.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpdv View Post
    I may be missing something, but are you over thinking this? I'd stick the lot at the (out)side of the shed/garage, in the shade. Sticker by ripping bits off the worst board, stick between each good board. cover with a couple of bits of colorbond, bricks to hold down. job done, no wall loads, space in garage, better airflow from external breezes, easier access.
    Its good to acclimatise the timber to the inside of the shop.

    Definitely going to have to split the load between in the inside and the outside


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #23
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    No, it will end in pain and chaos. 900 kgs should be on the deck.

  10. #24
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    i guess a good way to think about it is 900kg is a very small car, like a suzuki swift or something. would you be ok with hanging a swift off that wall?

    are you able to just add a vertical timber support to the ends of those prongs, so at least you're transferring some of that weight into the ground.

  11. #25
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    I have some weight going to the ground on the two outside racks. Thinking i might add one or two verticals in the middle that can fold out of the way as needed.

    My question still stands as the how much weight is safe?

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damienol View Post
    I have some weight going to the ground on the two outside racks. Thinking i might add one or two verticals in the middle that can fold out of the way as needed.

    My question still stands as the how much weight is safe?
    Speaking as an engineer, I'm not going to answer...

    That said, if every 2nd or 3rd stud was braced to the opposite wall, the eccentric load bearing capacity of the wall in your photo would be increased.
    However, I will not try and predict by how much.
    Timber framed construction is pretty robust, so it's unlikely that your shed will collapse onto you. However, loading a light stud wall eccentrically with 900 kg of wood (the better part of one and a half cube?) will almost certainly cause the loaded wall to develop a lean into the void represented by the shed.

    I could suggest how to minimise the eccentric loading of the stud wall, but it's perhaps best if I don't.



    can you tell us what the wood is for?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  13. #27
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    Thanks Ian

    I have added some supports to transfer some of the weight at the front down to the slab in 5 places. I am feeling confident that the wall can take 400kg + so think I will leave it at that. I am also looking to use the end of the rails to provide some vertical support to some if the shorter boards.

    The rest I will store under my workbench which is currently occupied by some fragapani that I dont think I will ever use.

    The AO isn’t really planned for anything. I am hoping it will bring opportunity.

    I need 2x 3.6m lengths to make my Lisk Lamps - see #woodandmadness on IG, ( Login • Instagram ) so hopefully I get some more interest in it or the opportunity to do some other commission.

  14. #28
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    Default How much load can my wall handle?

    Turned out all right. Props have next to no weight on them so will be getting rid of them.

    Thanks for all the help



  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damienol View Post
    Hi WWF,

    I have 900kg of timber being delivered on Wednesday (85x3.6m lengths of American Oak) so need to rig up a storage solution.

    I just finished installing 3 sets of the Kincrome storage racks (KP1101) and thought I would double check that the walls can handle the load.

    Thoughts ? Guidance?


    Thanks
    Damien

    I am also not an engineer nor am I a professional builder, but ....

    Many years ago, I had an internal wall with 4x2 hardwood studs on 18 inch centres and lined both sides with 0.25 inch plywood. I hung a fairly heavy set of book shelves on that wall. Nothing happened for about 3 months, then the door next to the bookshelves jammed and kept on jamming. I planed the door, fine for a while, and then it jammed again, and again. The wall was slowly moving with the torque from the bookshelves.

    But I am married to an academic with an ever increasing library and an insatiable need for bookshelves. I hung the next set of bookshelves on the back of that wall. This balanced the load, and the problem went away. (Double load was not a problem.)

    You appear to be spreading a load of 900 kgs across 6 studs; a load of 150 kgs per stud. This does not seem excessive, and if the shed wall curves a little under torque, will it matter?

    Again, I repeat, I am not an engineer.

  16. #30
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    Thanks for the insight Graeme.

    In the end I decided to use the wall for short term horizontal and vertical storage and clear out the space under my 4m long work bench for longer term storage

    All up there would be less than 300kg on the wall.

    I think this arrangement is a better one so pretty happy.

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