Thread: Loft Bed

Really like the look of that bed. Would be ideal for the kids I am sure they would love it. Given me some ideas!

I can't answer your question, but I too am sure the kids will love the elevated beds.

I've only ever had one thought when I see these though - just how do you change the bedding/make the bed?

Google "masonry anchors" the selection is vast. Bunny's will have a good selection.

Thanks for that.

Just wondering a couple of things - what is the best type of timber to use for the frame...and also, is there a technique to avoid having sharp edges on the frame - especially the top edges?

Nice straight timber . If it's pine,35mm x 70mm,( or 45x90) space anchors every 500mm. Put a joist 35mm x 70mm every 500mm. have the joist sit on top of the wall bearer. To make it tidy and safe cut infill pieces so the joists don't roll.The front rail should be more substantial. Wide enough to screw and glue a 40mm x 40mm ledge for the joists to sit on. So 75mm joist + 40mm ledge = at least a 115mm front rail. More would be better. Also a nicer timber.

Use untreated decking for the mattress support. The manufactured sheets give off a gas.

In my teen years, whilst still at Mum & Dad's, I had a tiny bedroom, so I 'lofted' the bed to get more floor space.

I used the metal frame from the bed, and bolted the side to the wall with masonry anchors, then used a chain through the ceiling to the roof frame to support the outside corners.

And, yes, I did make my bed
Not too much of a drama if I recall - I think it was easy because I had a fairly flexible mattress, so I could sit up there, lift the corner of the mattress, and tuck the sheets etc. under.

Cheers,
Andrew

Sorry for the blurry pic - was just over at a mate's place and he has built a similar loft. I forgot to ask him how one of the bolts was used.

The bolt on the right that has the nut on the end is attached to a brick wall. I can't figure out how it works though. WHat goes into the wall to be able to use the nut like this? This is probably a really dumb question so apologies!

It looks like a Dyna Bolt type anchor. As the bolt is drawn out it expands a flexible metal sleeve in the masonry. It is only masonry, don't over tighten.

In the old days a hole was bored in the masonry and timber plugs bashed in, than screw whatever you like to the plug. I've done that myself a few times when I had nothing else.

OK, I've started my project. I've attached the back 190x45 F17 hardwood beam to the solid brick wall. Just used a bunch of 12x100 dynabolts - the wife demanded a few more than needed.





So far so good. The beam feels as solid as a rock and isn't going anywhere The beam span is about 4.1m so it's a fair chunk of wood.

Next step is to attach the two side beams either side of this. These will be about 1.4m long 190x45 beams. Should be pretty straight forward.

Once that is done, I'm going to attach the front beam which will be the same as the back beam - 4.1m long and 190x45.

I'm intending on using a few coach screws to attach the front beam to the side beam. I was thinking of using a 12mm X 150mm coach screw which will go through the front beam and then into the side of the side beam.

Now I was just wondering what sized pilot hole I should drill into the side beam for the coach screw? Given the screw is 12mm, what sized hole should I drill?

Thanks in advance and I'll post my progress as I go.

measure the shank of the coach screws and then drill the pilot hole the same width as the shank of the coach screw. Normally for M12 you would drill a 10mm pilot hole. Do a test on a piece of scrap timber to make sure.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks Woodie. Yes I'll do some practice before I try the proper hole!

Just some advice...I was arguing with my wife that 2 X 150mm coach screws in either end of the beam (the front 4.1m beam) should be anough to hold it up with no supporting beam underneath. Given the beam would only take between 1/4 and 1/3 of the load, I would have thought this would be enough. She's begging me to put a couple of bracing supports to the ground either end. I just like the idea of it seeming to float.

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by vGolfer

Thanks Woodie. Yes I'll do some practice before I try the proper hole!

Just some advice...I was arguing with my wife that 2 X 150mm coach screws in either end of the beam (the front 4.1m beam) should be anough to hold it up with no supporting beam underneath. Given the beam would only take between 1/4 and 1/3 of the load, I would have thought this would be enough. She's begging me to put a couple of bracing supports to the ground either end. I just like the idea of it seeming to float.

Thoughts?

You should be fine without a post. Just have a very snug fit wall to wall.( .5 mm oversize ) If you wanted, you could check the 2 ends to have 60mm left at the bottom and batten screw up into the front rail. In add. to the face screws.

Originally Posted by Ball Peen

You should be fine without a post. Just have a very snug fit wall to wall.( .5 mm oversize ) If you wanted, you could check the 2 ends to have 60mm left at the bottom and batten screw up into the front rail. In add. to the face screws.

Thanks...I'm planning on adding a couple of brackets behind the front beam, attached to the side beam as well.

Just thinking a bit more...there will be a ladder at either end so I'll probably build the ladder so it is a semi-support as well.