Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 17 of 17
-
3rd August 2014, 11:31 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Queensland
- Posts
- 2,947
If the size of the kerf is not an issue, capture the pipe between 2 boards, which are the same height or slightly higher than the pipe. Use a router with a very narrow tungsten bit, the boards provide a flat base for the router to slide along, the router guide keeps the router in the middle of the pipe.
Caution, do not start at the very end,make the start and finish approx 25-50mm from the ends - this should ensure that the kerf doesn't close up as you go through the end. Make the pipe slightly over length and then you only need to make a perpendicular cut on the ends to get to the required length. This method would only work with pipe that is structurally firm rather than the softer flexible pipe.
Just a thought.
-
3rd August 2014 11:31 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
3rd August 2014, 10:19 PM #17In pursuit of excellence
- Join Date
- Apr 2001
- Location
- Melbourne S.E Burbs
- Posts
- 476
I needed the same thing on site recently to make a protective sleeve/clamshell that clipped over a damaged piece of conduit. I just put a short blade in my cordless recipro saw, and set it's fence (?foot?) out a fair bit so there wasn't much travel on the blade, then simply ripped down the length of the pipe. I think you could also do this with a jigsaw that has a spacer block under it, you could cove or vee out the spacer to the profile of the poly if you want to be fancy.
Took me just a few minutes on site, no need for super-elaborate navel gazing. If you're cutting the poly with lines along it you even have a line printed to cut to.
Similar Threads
-
Radial=longitudinal shrinkage?
By PAH1 in forum TIMBERReplies: 3Last Post: 27th October 2004, 05:45 PM