Thread: Machinery choices - what would you choose and why?

My setup is option 2. When I bought the bandsaw, I thought it would be annoying to change the blade, but I've found that it's quick to change (2-3mins).

I've used a combination jointer/thicknesser at the local woodturning club, and I reckon changing between functions takes as long as it takes for me to change a blade on my bandsaw, so I'd say your choice may come down to other attributes like floor space. In this case, generally, option 1 would take up less area than option 2 as bandsaws tend to have smaller footprints compared to jointers and thicknessers.

If you've got the space and the funds i'd go separate jointer/thicknesser. For several reasons
- If one (unlikely) dies you can still make do with the other, ie you can joint with a thicknesser but losing a thicknesser will be bit harder to do without.
- I don't have a huge amount of time in the shed so any time saved is good ie no changeover time is a win anyday of the week.
- I prefer straight blades on the thicknesser but spiral on the jointer. I don't do alot of woodworking and prefer the finish you get off good straight blades
- Dust collection is more effective on dedicated machines.
- Longer beds on stand alone jointer,
- I've never needed a jointer bigger than 8" but regularly need a thicknesser wider than 13" combo machines prices increase rapidly at this point

In regards to bandsaw blade changes, depending on your machine some are easier to change blades than others. Mine is a complete pain to do, mostly due to the mechanisms to adjust the guides are awkwardly placed. So as much as i like the idea of changing blades for various applications i think i've got a 3/8" (might be 1/2") blade that remains on at all times. For tight curves i do relief cuts rather than changing blades and following the line. Sure a second bandsaw setup for this application would be great, but I don't do enough bandsawing to justify the investment. I also have a scrollsaw that i sometimes use in lieu of a bandsaw for really tight work.

+1 on the larger bandsaw. Mine is a 19", but have no trouble running 6mm wide bands on it.

A bigger saw also gets you a bigger throat, a bigger motor to power your way through long rips and usually better dust collection ports.

I have a bunch of different blades (27mm x 1.25TPI TC, 32mm x 1 TPI, 19mm x 6 TPI, 19mm x 3 TPI and 6mm x 6 TPI), but you could probably get away with 2 - a bit one and a small one ?

I have a combination planer/thicknesser because I have very limited space and even if I did have the space, given my usage, I would find it hard to justify the use of two separate machines.

To be very frank, I really don't know any more!

I've been peeved for quite a while about the lack of 'stability' with machinery suppliers / importers / retailers even though many offer quite good customer service at the original sale.

It's the ongoing support, availability of spare parts, and even IF they will be the agent next year, month ????? Jet / Powermatic is a great example in Oz.

Then there is the issue of clones and parallel / grey imports i.e. Woodfast & many others.

Which is better? or What is the difference between a Record / Grizzly / Rikon / Woodfast - very difficult to say with any authority due to the quite different specification levels, hence parts availability. Wheels, guides, can be very different.

Though there are some brands that are stable Vicmarc, Omega Stubby.

I'm not a fan of combo machines for one main reason - if it's down you lose both functions!

Plus, I'm a firm believer in 'cry once' - purchase the 'best' quality you can afford - but as I have stated above, I have grave doubts about "what" that is these days.

edit - as an adjunct I believe that purchasing older machines is probably a better option than new IF the machine is complete and the consumable such as bearings etc are 'off the shelf' items which many are on older machinery.

Can't comment on the bandsaw as don't have one but did go down the jointer/thicknesser wormhole a few months ago and ended up purchasing a Hammer combo to replace my current Dewalt thicknesser and Sherwood Jointer.

There were a few determining factors;

- Space savings, have a reasonably sized shed but do have lot's of gear which takes up a fair amount of the space I have, this option will save on not just the size of another machine but also on the clear working area you need around the machine.

- Was a fair bit cheaper to buy a combo than two separate machines, for my budget would have had to downspec on the quality of the machines if I went for both.

- Have tried the changeover and is really not that big of an issue in a one man workshop, if you are using commercially in a shop with a few people can see a combo would be a potential problem, same goes for the amount of use, I work one one project at a time so is not a problem if I have to change over a few times.

I grew up on seperate machines, but have had combinations of one kind or another for the last 20. A combination simplifies dust collection, which is another machine you need to include in your space budget. Planing and thicknessing are complimentary operations. You need both machines and therefore the failure of a seperate machine is still a failure of the process.

I don’t find changeovers vexing. Since I am going to plane all the timber for a project I do all of it, and the first edge, prior to thicknessing, so there might only be a minute or two changing functions once every project.

I have a 24” bandsaw. Again, all resawing is done in a batch with resaw fences etc. My saw rarely does other things, but changeovers would be only after all the stock has been dimensioned.

option 2.

over the years I found out you dont need a very very good bandsaw to achieve very good result but you need top notch bandsaw blades.

separate jointer and thickness planer is the way to go if you are in production environment.

I used to have a very good combination machine, a Felder AD951, the change over is fast between buzzer and thicknesser but you often need to set the depth to what you want to achieve with the thickness planer, and for me 90% of the time it is between 18mm -50mm. you need to lower the surface planer table low enough to switch over, low enough means over 235mm, and this, takes the longest amount of time. do it once a day its fine but if you do it 50 times a day. its not fun, even for a power drive where you press a button and it goes up or down.

I hear you on this. I have been scanning forums, reviews et cetera and there is

I think I will ultimately just go with either Carbatec or Hafco branded machines unless I plump for a much higher end models with known international reputation (eg Laguna for bandsaw or Hammer), under no illusions they are likely just re-brands - just because of how long the businesses have been around and therefore have a prospect of continuing to be likely to be around.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

To be very frank, I really don't know any more!

I've been peeved for quite a while about the lack of 'stability' with machinery suppliers / importers / retailers even though many offer quite good customer service at the original sale.

It's the ongoing support, availability of spare parts, and even IF they will be the agent next year, month ????? Jet / Powermatic is a great example in Oz.

Then there is the issue of clones and parallel / grey imports i.e. Woodfast & many others.

Which is better? or What is the difference between a Record / Grizzly / Rikon / Woodfast - very difficult to say with any authority due to the quite different specification levels, hence parts availability. Wheels, guides, can be very different.

Though there are some brands that are stable Vicmarc, Omega Stubby.

I'm not a fan of combo machines for one main reason - if it's down you lose both functions!

Plus, I'm a firm believer in 'cry once' - purchase the 'best' quality you can afford - but as I have stated above, I have grave doubts about "what" that is these days.

edit - as an adjunct I believe that purchasing older machines is probably a better option than new IF the machine is complete and the consumable such as bearings etc are 'off the shelf' items which many are on older machinery.

Hi Chris,

I'd go for something like a Minimax C30G set up permanently in the middle of your space, and large bandsaw on wheels. You've got stock dressing, straight cuts, resawing and curves. Not to mention the versatility of the sliding table saw.

Cheers, Zac.

Edit: and a spindle moulder

By preference I would have a seperate jointer and thicknesser but space dictates otherwise.

With a combo one soon learns that if you have any serious quantity of material to dimension then you work in batch lots, even if only to reduce fiddling around switching modes. It really doesn't take long once you get the hang of it, but the number of repetitions can add up to quite a chunk of time in a day otherwise.

As Mobyturns mentioned, if it goes down you lose both functions. Which is a right PITA but if you literally don't have the space for both then you have to accept a compromise.

To my mind the worst thing about my combo is the dust collection. Out of the box it is only 'middling' in that regard, which can be improved significantly. However, improving the catch rate means mods that need to be removed when switching modes, increasing changeover time. Still... compromises and all that.

(I s'pose I could get rid of on of my lathes or reduce the size of the in-shed timber stash or something to free up space for more machines. But I'd have to really want/need them first and I can live with the combo as is. It's not like my home shed is my workplace.)

option 2 and it's not even close.

My only thought is combination machines are garbage. Go with individual machines. I'd go with a table saw before a bandsaw

Just on this, I would be the first to admit that a tablesaw has numerous objective advantages over a bandsaw for many operations, but I would be interested if your view would extend to a major intended use being resawing larger pieces.

The impression I have from speaking with others and reading is that resawing larger boards on a tablesaw, while possible, is fraught with a few issues and needs to be handled with real care. Even with the experience I have resawing with a bandsaw, I have noticed that the releases of internal stress on larger resaw cuts (say 150mm or more) can be really surprising and unpredictable.

In short, if I had acquired really nice 200mm+ stock and was thinking of resawing into (say) box parts - I am happy to be educated - but as a hobbyist doing it for enjoyment, I would be approaching re-sawing on the tablesaw with a bit of apprehension. Frankly I just wouldn't be looking forward to it, whereas with a bandsaw I'd be looking forward to a morning or afternoon of seeing all the lovely slices come off.

I realise that may be a bit superficial or perhaps emotional - but well that's just me dealing with it as a hobby that makes no economic sense to begin with.

I only put that out there for thoughts of course - appreciating everyone's needs and wants are different.

Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor

My only thought is combination machines are garbage. Go with individual machines. I'd go with a table saw before a bandsaw

Originally Posted by Cgcc

I realise that may be a bit superficial or perhaps emotional - but well that's just me dealing with it as a hobby that makes no economic sense to begin with.

this is actually the single most important thing, though we're strongly discouraged from even acknowledging it. all the objectivity and feature comparisons and workflow optimisations and persuasive arguments in the world won't amount to jack if you don't also feel good about it

when it's a workplace that you get to go home from, and a tool that pays your bills, you can tolerate some dissatisfaction for a long time. but when it's a tool for playing with at home, when it's the thing that's supposed to help you decompress after work, it can't just be more work