Thread: Makita track saw

I have never used a track saw so maybe I am missing the point.

I have a 3 metre aluminium straight edge and have clamped this onto sheets to break them down for years.

google self clamping straight edge How To Make A Self-Clamping Straightedge Guide - YouTube I am planning on making one of these as I have a pending job using a lot of sheet.

the benefit of this i perceive is instant square which will speed up set up and I can make jigs (set length sticks) for repeated cuts.

maybe one day I will use a track saw and “get” it.

cheers

IMO if you need to break down and work with any type of sheet goods, you have a couple of options.

First is a sliding table saw - one designed to handle full sheets. From all reports, they work wonderfully, but they are expensive and take a lot of space.

Second option is exactly as you say, using a track saw or self made track saw equivalent. You can set these up either on the floor using rigid foam insulation or a Bora Centipede type device (Centipede K6S (2'x4') Work Support | Carbatec). There's a good bit of discussion here: Breaking down plywood - which "insulation board" to cut on? where I had sought advice on the type of foam to use. I'm about to test the stuff @havabeer69 linked to in post number 8: Breaking down plywood - which "insulation board" to cut on?

In terms of brands, if you're considering buying a track saw, you have many options.

I can attest to the extraction on the Festool, which is fantastic. You mention a budget of $1800, and you're not far from a Festool system with that amount. You also then get the advantage of "getting in to" the Festool system. If you go down this road, make sure that any track you buy is what is called a "holey rail" - it's exactly the same track but has holes to support the LR-32 system (which, if you're doing a lot of cabinets, may be attractive to you). Here's an overview of the LR-32 system: 32mm System and the Festool Hole Guide.pdf. One of the chaps on FoG made an awesome video series on the LR-32 which is well worth watching to understand it: Festool LR32 Introduction part 1 of the series - YouTube

Other than that, there's a number of brand choices out there, and the shop vac side of most of these is not married to the manufacturer of the track saw, and you can mix and match at your pleasure (obviously making sure it all fits together).

The two things you need in a track saw is accuracy (make sure the saw doesn't wobble side-to-side on the rail), and a good blade especially if cutting laminates/melamine etc.

How neat and accurate a cut are you looking for? A tracksaw gives a far superior cut to a powersaw with a straightedge.

I would say the first step is to decide if a tracksaw is your best option and if yes then what brand to buy. The price difference wasn’t enough for me to buy the Makita over a Festool
Buying your board pre cut is the best option if that is practical to do, if not a tracksaw would be your best alternative to a table saw

A major potential benefit of a track saw is the potential for serious space saving ie by setting up a stand that allows for near vertical operation.

If the track saw is also a plunge saw the ability to safely start a cut in the middle of a sheet/board is also useful.

If it's just saw dust mess you are worried about the dust collection features available on plunge saws is available on some circular saws eg the Makita 5057KB although given they are about the same price as a plunge saw, only have about 1/2" greater cutting capacity, and are not plunge saws I wonder why people buy these.

While they really do reduce the mess I doubt the fine dust capture ability of the collection bags used, so if I had one I'd still be using it outside.

I doubt the self clamping straight edges as shown in teh youtube link are anywhere near as square as they claim and even more so on workpieces where the edges are not square to begin with.

This may seem totally unrelated but it might give you some ideas. For Chainsaw work I use a T-track made from 50 x 100 mm patio tube that has regular clamp on one end and an adjustable position custom clamp on the other. The chainsaw rides the rail on a custom made carriage clamp that runs on brass rollers. This enables me to cut at all sorts of angles and stand deep cuts in the middle of workpieces.

I have often though of making a similar adjustable position clamp for a track that I use with the circular.
Clamp1.jpg Clamp2.jpg cutting1.jpg Sofa.jpg

I also use straight edges and a selection of aluminium sections up to 25 x 75 mm as guides to break up thick timber slabs.
This is much safer/easier than trying to muscle large slabs onto a TS or BS.
first-cut.jpg

I have used a Festool track saw to break up a number of 50mm thick Jarrah slabs and can report it did a great job.

Originally Posted by Wrongwayfirst

I have never used a track saw so maybe I am missing the point.

I have a 3 metre aluminium straight edge and have clamped this onto sheets to break them down for years.

google self clamping straight edge How To Make A Self-Clamping Straightedge Guide - YouTube I am planning on making one of these as I have a pending job using a lot of sheet.

the benefit of this i perceive is instant square which will speed up set up and I can make jigs (set length sticks) for repeated cuts.

maybe one day I will use a track saw and “get” it.

cheers

I used a straight edge and circular saw for decades. Christmas 2018 I had to build a kitchen with a weeks notice over Christmas new year, and again used the circular saw. When I finished that project I bought a Festool Tracksaw. There is no comparison between the 2, ease, speed, accuracy, cut quality, dust extraction are all light years ahead using the track saw.

To answer the original question, it was worth the investment for me. I went the Festool route so can only comment on that, but I haven’t regretted it for even a second.

Cheers Andrew

I think I'm pretty sold on getting a track saw, but there's still a pretty significant price difference between the Makita and the Festool (and the latter has more expensive blades too). I reason that if I can buy or build a decent parallel guide the accuracy and repeatability should make it worth the upgrade from my current setup.

On dust extraction - I'm looking at the Makita M class shop vacuums simply because they're sold bundled with the track saw (saving about $150 bucks and indicating they're compatible). But I don't know anything about dust extraction, having always worked with hand tools, so I'd welcome any observations on that aspect. I don't use any other machines beside a router occasionally.

Originally Posted by BobL

If the track saw is also a plunge saw the ability to safely start a cut in the middle of a sheet/board is also useful.

Bob raises a good point here - I went the Festool route with a TS55, so I take plunge as being "normal", and sometimes need to be reminded it isn't.

Well worth considering.

Originally Posted by Midnight Man

You mention a budget of $1800, and you're not far from a Festool system with that amount.

Can you point us to a comparable Festool system for about that price?

Originally Posted by snafuspyramid

I think I'm pretty sold on getting a track saw, but there's still a pretty significant price difference between the Makita and the Festool (and the latter has more expensive blades too). I reason that if I can buy or build a decent parallel guide the accuracy and repeatability should make it worth the upgrade from my current setup.

On dust extraction - I'm looking at the Makita M class shop vacuums simply because they're sold bundled with the track saw (saving about $150 bucks and indicating they're compatible). But I don't know anything about dust extraction, having always worked with hand tools, so I'd welcome any observations on that aspect. I don't use any other machines beside a router occasionally.

I hear you on the price difference and you have to be comfortable with the outlay. Festool blades are reasonable I thought at around $100 for genuine blades ( aftermarket blades are a different thickness) but I also have a fibre cement blade as we cut a lot of that with the saw and they are over $300 but worth every cent with the quality of cut they produce
I met a guy who had the Makita track saw and later changed to the Festool saw and liked it better, not sure in what way though.

That Makita vac looks pretty good, I was thinking of getting one myself

I recently ventured into the plunge saw department by purchasing a bosch track saw in the last year. Because it is compatible with the mafell I figured I'd go this route and keep the bosch and reuse the tracks for when I ever do get the mafell. After researching I noticed the mafell is an a$$ and a half to get to Australia, how my previous boss got his to Australia I do not know. (numbnuts must have put his knee pads to good use with the sales rep). I'm starting to wish I did go the festool way only due to it been readily available everywhere but the price tag thou... Anyway, I can't fault the bosch it's awesome. Apart from the base issue which does put off a few people is an easy fix and really isn't an issue just a slight oversight on Bosch behalf.
Ive so far purchase a mk2, bench dogs, their fence dog and a bosch compatible rail square and I can't be any happier. These made building my kitchens and bookshelfs accurate and easier so I'm glad I don't have to run my circular saw along the straight edge anymore. Let them days die with the dinosaurs. I would recommend these extras from benchdog in the UK.

Originally Posted by slickmick77

I recently ventured into the plunge saw department by purchasing a bosch track saw in the last year. Because it is compatible with the mafell I figured I'd go this route and keep the bosch and reuse the tracks for when I ever do get the mafell. After researching I noticed the mafell is an a$$ and a half to get to Australia, how my previous boss got his to Australia I do not know. (numbnuts must have put his knee pads to good use with the sales rep). I'm starting to wish I did go the festool way only due to it been readily available everywhere but the price tag thou... Anyway, I can't fault the bosch it's awesome. Apart from the base issue which does put off a few people is an easy fix and really isn't an issue just a slight oversight on Bosch behalf.
Ive so far purchase a mk2, bench dogs, their fence dog and a bosch compatible rail square and I can't be any happier. These made building my kitchens and bookshelfs accurate and easier so I'm glad I don't have to run my circular saw along the straight edge anymore. Let them days die with the dinosaurs. I would recommend these extras from benchdog in the UK.

Apparently makita and festool tracks are compatible to one another. Blokes from my last job tried to convince me to go makita route but I had dewalt and wanted my tools all the same skin. I've recently decided not to purchase dewalt anymore due to their price tag and quality of tools are just lacking these days. Just utter kefe stuff.
The makita plunger/ vacuum is a good price tag for the combo I reckon. If I were to do it again I would have gone makita, making my transition into festool all the easier.

Here's a link for benchdogs if your interested. Might be of interest. Ralph the owners a good bloke.
Products – Benchdogs

Originally Posted by slickmick77

Apparently makita and festool tracks are compatible to one another.

Sort of, I went to buy a third track for my Festool and thought I would have a look at the Makita one to save some coin.
The saw does fit on the track but you need to adjust the side cams to take a little bit of slack out of it which is fine but then you then can’t use your Festool track unless you adjust it back again so you will either need to have all Makita or all Festool tracks to save the hassle and maintain accuracy and consistency

I have some Scottish blood running through my veins so don’t mind saving a dollar but not worth it in this case I think

Originally Posted by Beardy

... I have some Scottish blood running through my veins so don’t mind saving a dollar but not worth it in this case I think

Surprise you didn't go Braveheart on them tracks when you realised you had to configure them tracks abit. worked with a sko-ish bloke, fiery fella! Bloody awesome bloke especially in a punch on back in the Bobby McGee days.

Thanks all, sage advice as always - I decided to to go with the Makita.

As far as benchtop setup goes, I have a few damaged doors floating around so planned to throw one on top of my (Nicholson style) carpenter's bench and sacrifice that.

The next issue is parallel guides. It looks like something I could throw together with some T-Track and some Perspex at a pinch, but does anyone have any reasonably priced options to suggest?