Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 32
Thread: Marking wood
-
23rd October 2008, 06:11 AM #1
Marking wood
Excuse my newbie question...
What does everyone use to mark wood with - after measuring?
Just getting into the woodworking scene and found it very difficult to mark accuratly and yet how critical the accuracy has to be.
I saw a guy (much more skilled than me) using a ball point pen - shurly not the norm?
Also saw a guy using what looked like a felt tip fine marker!
My Grandad used a pencil - but there are quite a few shapes, some that are very hard to sharpen.
Please let me know what is considered the best marker (brand too if possible) - what everyone uses.
Thanks
Dave
-
23rd October 2008 06:11 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
23rd October 2008, 06:19 AM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- fff
- Posts
- 394
If the finish is important, I use a scribe. it not, I use a common
pencil, I have a good sharpener mounted on a small block of
wood I can clamp in my vice and I keep a can with a couple
of dozen sharpened in my tool tote.
If it is a critical cut I make sure the pencil is sharp.
If it is a reference line where the piece will be finished
I put a piece of masking tape where the mark will be
to prevent having to sand off the mark later.
-
23rd October 2008, 08:04 AM #3.
www.ColonialPlantationShutters.com.au
Use your garage or home workshop to make Plantation Shutters as a business
-
23rd October 2008, 08:22 AM #4Awaiting Email Confirmation
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Peakhurst
- Age
- 67
- Posts
- 1,173
I use a marking knife if the cut is important.
Other wise a 0.5, 0.7 or 0.9mm 6B drafting pencil. (depends on which one I grab)
The softer the pencil the easier it is to sand off and you don't have to press to hard when making the mark thus no indentation in the timber.
Steve
-
23rd October 2008, 08:24 AM #5
I use in order of finesse required, Artline 70 texta, Keno pencil, 0.5mm mechanical pencil, Scribe, then Marking Knife. I have the Incra rules, which I find very easy to get accurate measurements.
If I am not worried about Finesse, the first implement I can pick up gets usedPat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
-
23rd October 2008, 10:31 AM #6
Yup - a screwdriver for a mark on a rough board that needs crosscutting - an old nail for (slightly) finer work.
For a serious answer, the same as others have said.
For anything that denotes an edge, like a sawcut: a marking knife or scribe line. There are good reasons for this - for a very fine & accurate line, it prevents fraying of the fibres from the saw teeth, & when you shoot the cut or plane to the line with a shoulder plane, etc., you are left with a very clean, sharp corner for mating with whatever it meets up with.
For fine marks in places where I don't want any residuals: a pencil. I tried propelling pencils & they are ok, & save sharpening, but the .5mm leads break so easily when they catch, which they always seem to do for me. So I went back to what I know best. I buy a 12-pack of cheap B (or HB if can't find Bs) pencils. These are sharpened to a very fine chisel point (with a chisel - good test of your chisel sharpness!). The lead point can be touched-up with sandpaper to keep the edge very fine.
Depending on the actual job in hand & the various types of cuts required, I might use nothing but a knife, only a pencil, or both - it's pretty obvious which tool is required, usually. There's a school of thought that likes to leave layout marks on the job, (makes it 'authentic' & shows the hand of the maker, yadda yadda...), but I come from the school that likes to end up with blemish-free surfaces - even on drawer sides. You might find the occasiional stuff-up buried inside, though - like a mortice marked on the wrong side of a table leg, for e.g.
But you'll have to find them for youself!
IW
-
23rd October 2008, 11:36 AM #7
I use an ear prop (pencil) for un-planed work and a knife for planed surfaces. I gace up on expensive marking knives after a few lost their tips on hard floors. I find one of the small plastic snap-off blade knives does the job admirably.
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
-
23rd October 2008, 12:57 PM #8
You don't wear glasses yet, WW??
For close to 40 years I kept my pencil behind an ear, but now it won't sit there because of the specs. How can something so obvious (I always buy those cheap, bright yellow things!) conceal itself so effectively - even on an uncluttered bench?
IW
-
23rd October 2008, 02:08 PM #9
Actually I do wear glasses now... how am I going to manage! I think I'll drill a big hole in my ear.
.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
-
23rd October 2008, 02:17 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- fff
- Posts
- 394
Designed with a computer.
Marked with a spray can.
Cut with an axe.
-
23rd October 2008, 02:20 PM #11
Didn't know you was into body-piercing, you old punker, you.....
Tell you what - I'll turn you up a nice piece of cow bone to wear when the pencil isn't needed.
Let me know how it works out, cos I'm sure fed up with wasting time looking for pencils. I've tried having two on the go, but one always gets broken, & that's always the first one I pick up, every time.
And once we solve the pencil problem, we'll work on tape-measures. I have a couple of bright yellow ones of those, two, but somehow they seem to be able to metamorphose into yellow pencils when I turn my back.
Unless, of course, it's a pencil I want when I turn round.
IW
-
23rd October 2008, 02:34 PM #12
I use a chalk on rough sawn wood and the rest of the time I use a HB pencil. There is nothing wrong with using a ball point pen as long as you can remove the marks later.
Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com
-
23rd October 2008, 02:45 PM #13
Marking knife = no tear out and pin-point accuracy. I use a knife for all cross cuts and an awl for marking points.
Like others I use a pencil (propelling pencil HB lead) or a builders pencil sharpened to a chisel point when I don't want the mark to be seen or don't want to plane/sand it away.
Like Mr Wong, I use chalk on rough sawn for marking rough lengths and labelling.
Biros are for taking phone messages"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."
-
23rd October 2008, 02:55 PM #14.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
-
23rd October 2008, 04:15 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- fff
- Posts
- 394
Little OT.. but My Grand dad used pencils until they were 1/2'
long, for you mates. that's about 12mm. I have a couple that were
in his tool box when he passed away. Priceless.
I have a hammer he used to open crates at the train depot, he
was a freight agent, that is engraved with the rail freights logo,
I passed on a $10,000 offer. It dates to about 1920. I also have
the sign off his truck.
Here;
http://www.answers.com/topic/railway-express-agency
and here;
http://www.prewarcar.com/show_prewar...p?car_id=50410
The little house in the picture is where my Mom was born, 1925.
Pacific Junction Iowa.
Sorry to get off topic, I will do it again I am sure!
Similar Threads
-
Marking triangles
By niki in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 19Last Post: 6th November 2007, 09:27 AM -
A box for a marking set
By derekcohen in forum BOX MAKINGReplies: 22Last Post: 13th December 2006, 10:55 PM -
Marking knives
By derekcohen in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 43Last Post: 9th July 2006, 08:33 AM -
Marking knife and awl set
By derekcohen in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 4Last Post: 20th June 2005, 09:24 PM -
Marking gauges
By Arron in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 9Last Post: 16th July 2004, 08:14 PM