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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2

    Default Best Material for DIY large doors

    Hi guys, I’ve used this forum many times before to research my DIY jobs and I must say it’s great.

    I’m building a large cupboard at the end of a room 3200 H x 3850W x 800D, which will just have big shelves for storage. I’ll use structural pine for the vertical and horizontal support and maybe particle boards for shelving.<O:p</O:p
    The problem I have is the doors. I don’t want them to stand out so they will be flush, hidden internal hinges and painted same color as the walls. But I can’t figure out what material to use or what size to make them. They can’t be full high 3200mm so I’ll need to have smaller doors at the top. <O:p</O:p
    MDF would be the easiest, but probably too heavy. Any ideas on what to use and how wide I could make them <O:p</O:p
    <O:p</O:p
    Thanks for the help

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5,773

    Default

    How about pine framed plywood.
    you are going to paint them... so dont waste anythiing pretty of expensive.

    pine will be cheap, light and easy to work. 10mm bb hoop ply will be similar and dimensionaly stable. and a convienient size to rout slots for.



    Cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    I'd just use ordinary flush panel house doors.
    Shorten the doors that will be used for the top.
    Its pretty easy, just take your time & do it neatly.
    Cut the the doors off to desired length.
    From the offcut remove the original top rail.
    You will need to remove every bit of the original door skin, use a sharp chisel or handplane
    Push the cardboard honeycomb down from the top so the top rail will go in.
    Apply glue to front & rear sheets and push the rail in till its a perfect fit.
    Apply clamping boards and clamps and wait till the glue sets.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Grange, Brisbane
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,642

    Default

    In the old days I've seen 3mm masonite used on a pine frame, but they always warp in a decade or two... We have VJ walls in our house so I used 6mm mdf with vj grooves cut in the front, tacked and glued onto pine frames. I'm sure 6mm ply would do the same job. Ours have been in 3 years now, and they look great. I wish I'd taken the time to hide the hinges though! Our ceilings are 3.2m high too so the lower section is about 2m with a smaller door on top. We are lucky enough to have a 100mm dado rail about 2m up so I used that as the break. If I was doing them again I'd put in ajustable shelving too - Bunnings sell melamine sheets with the holes pre drilled to take shelf supports.
    Cheers, Richard

    "... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Darwin NT
    Posts
    232

    Default

    Hi Nicolas
    I'd go along with Bob's idea of using standard hollow core doors.
    Or, have you thought about sliders? Mdf would be OK then, the weight on the bottom tracks.
    Regard
    Bill

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks for all the sugestions. I think I'll try the idea of using standard doors.

    Thanks again

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