MDF shelving - use pocket hole jig?

**Gunnaduit** · 18th October 2011, 01:05 PM

Got to make a built-in living-room bookshelf unit. Thinking 32 mm MDF shelves, they'll span about 720mm in 6 adjoining bays, with 32mm MDF uprights between.

Used the Sagulator on the web to calculate deflection, and find that with a hardwood edge strip, this will give low deflection. Hopefully chunky 32mm thick will also deal with creep deflection over time. Yeah MDF is just cardboard, but half the price of ply, 2/3 the price of pine. Still 500 bucks. I bet they just get ripped out by some renovator once I'm gone.

I could do floating shelves supported on shelf pins, but lower deflection option is to firmly fix the shelf ends into routed rebates in the uprights.

Wondering what to do to fix the shelves in the rebates. Glue possible. Prefer to get some kind of metal fasteners (e.g. screws) in there. Bearing in mind I can't access to drill end-on, I'd have to drill on a slant from underneath each shelf into the uprights. What's the go? One of those Kreg pocket hole jigs? Anyone tried that? Did it work no hassle? What other gadget would be good?

**GraemeCook** · 18th October 2011, 01:27 PM

Good Morning Gunna

I have posted several times on this - do a search if you want more detail.

I have heaps of bookshelves, all from 32 mm celery top pine and this is stiff enough to span up to 1400 mm without sagging, even after up to 30 years. All bookshelves are fabricated with sliding dovetails and just fit together - absolutely no glue, nails or screws. When we moved we just took the shelves with us.

Do not ask me about MDF as I just hate working with the stuff. Smells like very nasty nasties....

Fair Winds

Graeme

**Gunnaduit** · 18th October 2011, 02:22 PM

Howdy Graeme
Know what you mean, I built some sliding-dovetail type book cases like you say, no nails or glue! Classy, but due them being wrong size and style for the new place might pass them on. This time I will get these big built-ins happening, they'll look good wall-to-wall and floor to 2700 ceiling. MDF not so nice I agree but is pragmatic. With them done, I can spend more time on the exquisite stuff: got a big list of gunna do's here for sure!
Ian

**bsrlee** · 21st October 2011, 02:29 AM

If you are going to the trouble of edging the MDF shelves, I'd suggest edging BOTH front & back - this will avoid the problem of the un-reinforced edge sagging & trying to bust the whole thing loose. As you have wall/s backing up the uprights, this will be less of a problem than a totally freestanding bookcase.

Kreg jigs are the best quality pocket hole jigs available locally. The angled screws act both to hold the sides in place and effectivley as shelf pins as well. I have several totally filled ply bookshelves held together with pocket hole screws - no glue - and they have resisted the temptation to collapse. I screwed the top, bottom & one intermediate shelf, the rest are adjustable on pins.

**old pete** · 21st October 2011, 12:38 PM

Hi Gunnadoit,

I usually lie down to rest just from looking at a sheet of 32mm MDF but I guess I'm not young anymore

.

I suggest you have a think about the appearance you will get with using material of that thickness for bookshelves. To my eye I think it would look like what I call a little bit "Clunky".

If you use 19mm hardwood edged chipboard in a backed bookcase with say a 15mm x 15mm rear support under the shelves that is screwed and glued to the backing sheet you should be OK for sag plus it will look a lot more elegant and it will still be budget priced.

Good Luck

Old Pete

**Pat** · 21st October 2011, 03:46 PM

Mate, I build workbenches with my Kreg. Make sure everything is square and well clamped together then drive the screw home.

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