Thread: MDF wardrobe doors...please help.

I think you would be best off with making a timber internal frame from something like 18mm (3/4") pine, like they used to have in 'egg carton' interior doors, then skin it with the thinnest economical ply you can get - not the crook Phillipine 'mahogany' ply that you see at the big box store (you can find reasonable stuff if you go thru' the whole stack tho').

To avoid 'potato chip' warping, where the whole door curls up, you will have to make sure that both of the skins are the same finished thickness, and are coated with the same number of coats of finish - so if you are going to veneer the outside, you should either veneer the inside with a similar thickness veneer or use a slightly thicker ply so it is the same thickness as the veneered side. I'd also recommend adding the mirror as a separate fitting with a 'picture frame' surround.

18mm MDF would be extreeeemley heavy & have a lot of inertia - it can & will snap door handles off, and getting your fingers caught really hurts Here I'd also recommend fastening some 'stop blocks' to the top of the doors to take any impacts as they pass - its cheaper than buying new handles every few months.

Sliding doors made from MDF roll on a bottom track. I cn't imagine how you would successfully anchor a track to the ceiling to take the sort of weight you want to hang from it.

You can get internal doors that won't warp and are fairly lightweight. Height might be your problem.

thanks for your time guys.

artme - my doors would hang from Cowdroy triumph sliding rollers they can carry 68kg per door. the sheet of mdf would weigh 20kg.My anchor would be bolted to the beams in the roof. The sliding track would also be in the roof, with the door connected to the roller through a slit in the ceiling.

bsrlee - i was looking at that option. its similar to the way they make hollow doors. i dont feel i would be able to get pine to remain straight. Could you explain the process you have in mind in more detai\l in regard to controlling the warp?? I think your on the right track..

How is your roof constructed?

Is it truss or rafter construction?

If they are trusses I would check out what can be hung from them as trusses are not really designed to carry a load on the bottom chord.

OK you want a slit in the ceiling for the hangers. How wide will it have to be and how will you successfully seal it against ingress by dust and insects?

Its rafter construction. I will enclose the sliding rail with gyprock in the ceiling, the slit is 8mm. Are you spying on my design?

Originally Posted by TradingWoody

Its rafter construction. I will enclose the sliding rail with gyprock in the ceiling, the slit is 8mm. Are you spying on my design?

No! just a little dubious.

Have you priced mirror sliding doors, I used them on a BIW they slide on a bottom track very easy and quick. And they look good
les

hi less88, yeah thought about that but
i like a challange.

Still can;t see why you would put yourself through so many complicated hassles.