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Thread: Method of joining timber
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13th April 2006, 05:40 PM #31
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No it's a standard tenon but you cut a couple of slots in the end and put in some wedges then you push the whole thing into a blind mortice. When the wedges contact the bottom of the mortice, the wedges are forced into the slots in the tenon and this locks the joint together as it would for a wedged through mortice. It's probably a very difficult thing to make because everything has to be just right and you only get one shot at it.
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13th April 2006, 05:51 PM #32
Ox and Herdsman Vanished
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Tusk tenons and other wedged tenons are held in place without glue. If they work loose, a tap on the wedge tightens them up again.
BTW Another term is "fox wedged tenon":
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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13th April 2006, 07:53 PM #33
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I like the look of that exposed fox tennon, Zenwood.
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17th April 2006, 10:15 PM #34
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I think Lignum is on the right track if you want to rely on glue instead of any mechanical joint. I believe there is a joint called a scalf joint used in boat building to join planks, where the planks are laid back to back & a very shallow angle is cut throught the 2 planks at the same time. When the top plank is flipped over, the 2 angles =180 degrees.
Originally Posted by Lignum
Arron, cut the boards slightly over size and ring up the closest joinery to you and ask if they will quickly cut a few 45`s on them. They will only be to happy even happier if you offer them a slab of premium beer for their effort
This method would give you a longer joint than a 45 degree cut, giving you a larger glue surface area & a more or less long grian to long grain joint. This would also be better as you don't need to be so acurate, a problem you noted earlier.
Steve
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BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; 42pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=56></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; 42pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=56></TD></TR><TR style=" 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=18></TD><TD class=xl22 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER- windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD class=xl23 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD class=xl23 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD class=xl23 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- windowtext 1pt solid; 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BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD></TR><TR style=" 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER- #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>The fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.
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18th April 2006, 12:44 AM #35
Ox and Herdsman Vanished
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That would be a "scarf" joint, I believe, used for lengthening a workpiece. Simple versions are straight cut at a shallow angle, or they can be more complicated, like this notched, tabled and wedged version, starting to look like a japanese puzzle: Originally Posted by Ticky
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No good for Arron's 90 degree joint, though.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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18th April 2006, 01:24 AM #36
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Zen, you are correct, No good for Arron's 90 degree joint. I didn't look at the pic, & I had it in my head that Arron was trying to lengthen his boards. Originally Posted by zenwood
Interesting post though, I had never heard of a Fox Tail joint before, & I also learnt more about scarf joints than I knew before.
One thing makes me wonder however, Arron was reluctant to use a M&T for reasons of strength, yet removing material & replacing it with other material seem almost the same to me, as a M&T, at least on one side of the joint.
Having made my mistake, I still think Lignums 45degree angles or as someone else said, a lock mitre joint would provide a larger glue surface area and reduce the effect of an End Grain.
steveThe fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.
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18th April 2006, 01:46 AM #37
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If you get someone else to cut the 45deg, you just have to use your bisc jointer to cut some slots for biscuits, or run the jointer down the majority of the mitre to fit a spline. Just stop it 20mm in from the ends. Simple solution to a simple prob
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18th April 2006, 10:23 PM #38
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Hey Rocker - and all... Originally Posted by Rocker
Is it poss to make a crosscut / mitre sled like this that would "fit" onto a MK3 Triton - or is there a better idea?
Seems to me the "groove" on the Triton MK3 may not be very accurate.
Thanks
Jedo
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19th April 2006, 03:12 AM #39
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Jedo,
I have never owned a Triton setup; so I can't give you a definitive answer. But maybe you have reached the point that most Tritoneers seem arrive at after a few years - that it is time to upgrade to a real table saw. If you have not reached that point, it might be best to avoid mitre joinery
Rocker
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19th April 2006, 08:41 PM #40
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Thanks Rocker
Yer dead right there. . .
Soon as I win the lotto...
Jedo
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