Thread: Micro Bevel

I must admit to having the same thoughts on many occasions. A number of salient issues are:
The "cutting edge" never actually reaches the timber until after it has "split' I use that term as it describes better the action than shearing. Shearing takes place when the blade reaches the newly created surface.
The finish on the back is just as important as the bevel as any irregularities will be part of the cutting edge, no matter which side they are on.
In many situations the junction between the microbevel and the primary will be that which contributes the most to the cutting drag or resistance.
I assume that there will be a difference to the surface finish depending on "bevel up" or "bevel down" due to the secondary shearing, but I have not studied this in any detail.
Personally I finish the primary bevel to 4000 grit water stone, the microbevel to 8000 as well as the back. I limit the microbevel to no more than one or two tenths of a mm, or just until it is visible along the whole of the edge.

Jacko

Thats what I thought, the reason I'm asking is because my micro bevel has grown to the point were it's probably just a bevel now, and I'm not looking forward to honing back the primary bevel.
I use the scary sharp method, because i've only been woodworking for about 4 years and can't be botherd to learn how to sharpen with a stone and keep the stone flat.
The plane in question is a Lie Neilson 4 1/2 with the cryo blade and it seems to chew through wet/dry when working the bevel (I think it shaves all the 'lumps' off (yes I do use a honing guide))
I plane to purchase a few of those dimand stones which don't need mantainance, but am just looking for short-cuts for now.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Ben.

Ben
I agree with you that it doesn't matter what grit you use to form the primary bevel. I just use a coarse diamond stone for that.

I use a fine and a very fine diamond stone to hone the micro-bevel and polish the back of the blade. If you keep the micro-bevel not more than a millimetre wide, sharpening is a pretty quick and easy process. You can get a two-sided 8" x 2 5/8" diamond stone (325/1200 grits) for US$79 from Lee Valley Tools.

When using wet and dry, If you only drag the blade towards you when setting the microbevel you probably will have less hassles. This is contra indicated to normal sharpenning techniques that suggest you shapen on the push stroke. however after the first couple of passes, you could probably change to a pull stroke. Make sure that there are no particles under the paper from previous steps, washing off the plate glass or marble slab metticulously.
As to truuing a water stone, I use a coarse double sided diamond stone, works like a dream and just takes a few tens of seconds.
Jacko

Ben

It would be a pity not to extract the full potential from your LN plane, which is one of the best around. I do like the LN blades, and they hold a sharp edge for a long time.

An alternative sharpening method, one that may well suit your needs, is to first hollow grind the bevel. Then you will not have so much metal to sharpen each time.

As Jacko suggests, I also just pull the blade in one direction when sharpening (freehand). I find that this prevents rounding over the edge as I can hold the bevel down more securely. Of course, I am still fairly new to doing it this way, and it may betray my inexperience here. Still, I am getting a sharper edge than when using my Veritas jig, and it takes so much less time.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I think ill try honing on the pull only, if this saves my paper, it'll make the whole process quicker and easier.
I do plan on splashing out for a dimond stone, but not right now.

Thanks for all you tips and oppinions so far.

Keep 'em coming.


Ben