Thread: What do you do to minimise the number of brushes u discard? (finishes, lacquers, etc)

Have you considered these foam "brushes"?

They are excellent.

It was a forumite that put me on to them for something I can no longer recall (probably paint!).... but they also suggested I use the foam roller and the short nap (?) micro rollers too for enamel paints. Have to say they are wonderful for this.


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All my quality brushes have a 4mm hole drilled in the handle about an inch above the metal ferrule. I poke a skewer through the hole and hang the brush in a jar of the approriate thinner. I'll do this between coats and when the job is done. The finish slowly falls out of the brush. Change the solvent twice so it gets three washes. Then wash with dish soap and warm water. You don't need a lot of solvent- enough to cover the bottom inch of the bristles, so choose a suitable container to prevent wastage. Capilliary does the rest.

Wrap the head of the brush in newspaper, fold it back on itself and secure with a rubber band around the ferrule. Next time you use it the bristles will have that "as new" chisel shape to them. I've got a 50mm Purdy sash brush that's been getting that treatment for 25 years and still paints beautifully.

The only thing I can add is after rinsing with solvent and you're washing the brush with detergent, keep re-doing it (apply, clean, rinse, reapply, clean etc) until you get proper soap foam happening (usually around 3-4 repetitions for me) before your final rinse. Try it next time you're cleaning and note the differences in the foam for each time you repeat.

It's a point that is rarely mentioned specifically but super useful in getting a clean, soft brush.

Originally Posted by rustynail

I use soap and water after turps or thinners. Final rinse with just water. Brush stays soft after this treatment.

Yup. A few thurough cleans with fresh turps each time and then wash with dishwashing soap a couple times seems to keep my oil based finish brushed in good shape.

For Lacquer you'll need a lacquer thinners to clean them. Same routine as above, minus the washing with soap and water.

The beauty of oil based brushes is if you do find them a bit stiff, just throw them in some turps and let them sit. They'll come good pretty quick.

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

The only thing I can add is after rinsing with solvent and you're washing the brush with detergent, keep re-doing it (apply, clean, rinse, reapply, clean etc) until you get proper soap foam happening (usually around 3-4 repetitions for me) before your final rinse. Try it next time you're cleaning and note the differences in the foam for each time you repeat.

It's a point that is rarely mentioned specifically but super useful in getting a clean, soft brush.

RSG

I was going to say that!



Earlier replies spoke of cheap brushes and expensive brushes. It is not worth cleaning the cheapies, but the better brushes are too expensive to simply discard. After a while I keep the ragged brushes for rough work such as painting fences or similar. I am currently using some older "hairy" brushes for waterproofing in a bathroom.

Regards
Paul

Originally Posted by Bushmiller

RSG

I was going to say that!



Earlier replies spoke of cheap brushes and expensive brushes. It is not worth cleaning the cheapies, but the better brushes are too expensive to simply discard. After a while I keep the ragged brushes for rough work such as painting fences or similar. I am currently using some older "hairy" brushes for waterproofing in a bathroom.

Regards
Paul

Also cheap brushes lay down the finish like only a cheap brush can - terribly. Spend the money on a good brush and look after it. Oil finish brushes can last years, even dacades, when looked after.

Quite a few years back I was advised by an old bloke that the best cleaner for a stiff and clogged brush was to soak in Phenol for a few days.
This brought many old throw-away brushes back like new.

The trouble with this method now is that Phenol has been banned. Phenyle is totally different and does not work.

I wash my brushes fairly well and then brush in Linseed Oil Soap, wrap them in cling wrap and they do keep nicely.

However, eventually they do get pretty stiff and could do with a good dose of the Phenol treatment.

Anyone know of a solution that will work like the old Phenol?

Cheers, Fred

Best to just suspend the bottom of the brush in white spirit (there will be a wick effect that will creep up the bristles and stop them from going hard), don't let the bristles rest on the bottom of the container or they will become misformed. Just keep topping up the white spirit as it starts to evaporate (if possible put a plastic bag over the top of the container with a rubber band around it, this will help with the evaporation) then when you want to next use the brush just clean it with some fresh white spirit and then dry it with a cloth.

Originally Posted by Camelot

Best to just suspend the bottom of the brush in white spirit ...

Seems a bit extravagant. (Polish) white spirits in $76.99 a bottle at Dan Murphies.

Mineral turpentine works just as well.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Seems a bit extravagant. (Polish) white spirits in $76.99 a bottle at Dan Murphies.

Mineral turpentine works just as well.

At least you can drink that type...

For oil based poly I also cut handles and keep in an old Poly tin, 4LT. That's if I have to cut the handle . As long as the lid seals perfect there is no problems. I then re use that turps every now and then to thin my poly before using on a new job. I like that . Not wasting any turps if possible. If I want to take a brush out and hang it up clean and dry I use the air compressor blower with the thin metal pipe to blow through the bristles up near the tin surround down towards the bristle ends. And I do that from both sides and with fresh turps as well.

This was (still might be!) the approved cleaning routine for natural bristle paint brushes used onboard RN warships:

First you scrape off/squeeze out as much paint off as physically possible.

Bucket 1: Filled with turps that has already been used to clean brushes and is now a bit manky. Squeezing and brushing the bristles followed by suspending the brush in the bucket for a couple of days gives the best results. Shake brush dry afterwards.
Bucket 2: Filled with clean turps; rinses off the dirty turps from the brush and again suspending is the best method. Shake brush dry afterwards. Eventually bucket 2 becomes dirty enough to become bucket 1...
Bucket 3: Filled with hot soapy water, clean off all the residual turps. Hang to dry.
Bucket 4: Filled with 50/50 turps and unboiled linseed oil. Soak brush for a couple of minutes, shake off the excess then hang to dry.

You then wrap the brush head in paper secured with string or tape or whatever you have at hand to maintain the shape.

Most of my "good" brushes are synthetic bristled Monarchs purchased from the Big Green Shed as and when I needed them; I clean them using the above method but without the fourth bucket. I haven't really looked for quality natural bristle brushes but I'd be interested to know where I can find them?

Originally Posted by The Spin Doctor

At least you can drink that type...

And the paint improves the flavour.

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

This was (still might be!) the approved cleaning routine for natural bristle paint brushes used onboard RN warships:

First you scrape off/squeeze out as much paint off as physically possible.

Bucket 1: Filled with turps that has already been used to clean brushes and is now a bit manky. Squeezing and brushing the bristles followed by suspending the brush in the bucket for a couple of days gives the best results. Shake brush dry afterwards.
Bucket 2: Filled with clean turps; rinses off the dirty turps from the brush and again suspending is the best method. Shake brush dry afterwards. Eventually bucket 2 becomes dirty enough to become bucket 1...
Bucket 3: Filled with hot soapy water, clean off all the residual turps. Hang to dry.
Bucket 4: Filled with 50/50 turps and unboiled linseed oil. Soak brush for a couple of minutes, shake off the excess then hang to dry.

You then wrap the brush head in paper secured with string or tape or whatever you have at hand to maintain the shape.

Most of my "good" brushes are synthetic bristled Monarchs purchased from the Big Green Shed as and when I needed them; I clean them using the above method but without the fourth bucket. I haven't really looked for quality natural bristle brushes but I'd be interested to know where I can find them?

Chief

I follow that procedure fairly closely, but like you without the fourth bucket or wrapping of brushes in paper. I am not quite so pedantic about letting the brushes dry in between steps, which results in more soap being used before a lather becomes evident. I use the ability to lather as a primitive guide that the brushes are coming clean.

Regards
Paul