Thread: how to miter cut quad?

You need to scribe the corner joints. Is the same as for skirting. Its easy to do but a bit longwinded to describe. So do a search on scribed skirting.

ok thanks for that rod, i was googling early (that sounds a bit weird doesnt it!) and saw many mentions of the scribe saw. i think i read that they are cheap and easy and flexible to use.

in short tho, are you saying that the sortve cut i want cant be achieved on the mitre saw ? i dont actually want the internal corners to 'join' the ceilings and skirting, moreso they will be a separate piece but with a tapered cut so they become narrow and level out when they hit the cornice / skirting.

cheers

db

rod i found a pic of what you were talking about. ive attached it below. thanks for the hints.

if you can picture that i install that, and then want to run quad from the ceiling to the floor in the internal corner without fitting it in to the above/below mentioned pieces, thats the last past of the puzzle.

thanks mate

The method of scribing a quarter round moulding for a internal joint and this applies to any shaped moulding you proceed as follows
(a) Take the length of I/4 round and or any shaped moulding and cut an internal 45deg, the cut section if you look side on where you have made the cut , the visual face (shape) is the profile of the scribe cut which you have to make.
(b) By employing a coping saw you proceed to cut following the curved outer line of the face of the mitre cut, if you cut neat enough you will achieve a very close fit to the adjoining section you are scribing to which should only need a bit of trimming with the aid of a rat tale file and or a half round file . You may even employ a gouge for final trimming of the curved profile.
( c) This is the hard bit, You now need cut to length and scribe the opposite end of the moulding particular if the moulding is running around the four sides of a room, you now proceed as (a) and ( b) but take care allow your self a little leeway in the fitting as you could end up cutting the piece short.
( d) The length of moulding you are scribing to is of course cut with square ends.
QED
Regards
Mac

Originally Posted by d00biez

however, they are bloody tricky to work out. ive got a miter drop saw and a miter box, but getting the pieces to stay in place while i cut them is proving impossible. if you can picture trying to hold the quad flat (on its pointed side) and then cut on the saw or in the box.. its very difficult.

dooby , what pointed side?
Doesn't your quad have the flat back that we can see on the right in this sketch ?

thanks malcolm for that very useful post. sounds intimidating but i'll use a practice piece first and build up confidence... cheers

manuka jock - no, unfortunately it doesnt.. it finishes in a point not a flat edge. its pretty much like a piece of pie in shape

Originally Posted by d00biez

manuka jock - no, unfortunately it doesnt.. it finishes in a point not a flat edge. its pretty much like a piece of pie in shape

Yeah , thats what I thought .
DON'T try to cut miters on the CMS drop saw with that stuff balancing on the 'pointed edge' , you will end up cutting a miter on your fingers.
Do the cuts with the hand saws , tenon , panel , coping , if you can ,
Or ,
take it back , get a refund , and go somewhere else and get the profile that is in the sketch

What Mac said.

Plus- Do the long ones first. If you stuff up you can shorten. Also, start at the main focus point in the room. Ie, when you walk in, there are certain points to which the eye is attracted as in across the room from the door. The join above the door, which you may have done last and is the last difficult corner, can be a bit out and no one will see it.

Generally most will look at the items in the studio and they will not see your lovely joints..don't you hate that?

cheers
conwood

thanks manuka jock (manuka in canberra is lovely but cold place this time of year!) and thanks conwood.

i stupidly painted the pieces so taking them back isnt an option any more.. on the positive side i taught myself how to use the spray gun while i painted all 15 of them!

i appreciate all the advice and time you guys have spent. i will try my hardest to post pics WHEN (if) i finish. its been 6 months so far. very hard being a new DIY'er and working on your pat malone!!

cheers

dooby

Originally Posted by d00biez

thanks manuka jock (manuka in canberra is lovely but cold place this time of year!) and thanks conwood.

i stupidly painted the pieces so taking them back isnt an option any more.. on the positive side i taught myself how to use the spray gun while i painted all 15 of them!

i appreciate all the advice and time you guys have spent. i will try my hardest to post pics WHEN (if) i finish. its been 6 months so far. very hard being a new DIY'er and working on your pat malone!!

cheers

dooby

I am not quite sure what you mean when you said you are having problems in cutting at 45deg when the piece of moulding is balancing on the pointy edge.
If you are doing a simple scribe in a corner situation then you would be holding the piece with one flat side against the fence and the other flat side sitting flat on the base, the 45deg cut should then be quite simple.
If you mean you are also trying to do what is called a 3 way mitre ( a three way junction that is 2 horizontal members joining in a corner and a vertical member then joining into the junction of the joint ) then this is a different kettle of fish but the principal would be the same .
Regards
Mac

Originally Posted by Malcolm Eaton

I am not quite sure what you mean when you said you are having problems in cutting at 45deg when the piece of moulding is balancing on the pointy edge.
If you are doing a simple scribe in a corner situation then you would be holding the piece with one flat side against the fence and the other flat side sitting flat on the base, the 45deg cut should then be quite simple.
If you mean you are also trying to do what is called a 3 way mitre ( a three way junction that is 2 horizontal members joining in a corner and a vertical member then joining into the junction of the joint ) then this is a different kettle of fish but the principal would be the same .
Regards
Mac

Mac , here is the look that dooby is trying to achieve

Originally Posted by d00biez

in short tho, are you saying that the sortve cut i want cant be achieved on the mitre saw ? i dont actually want the internal corners to 'join' the ceilings and skirting, moreso they will be a separate piece but with a tapered cut so they become narrow and level out when they hit the cornice / skirting.
cheers
db

to do the scribe cut for the vertical section of quad on the mitre saw, you can hold it "on its pointy bit" in a V block you've made by ripping a V section out of a bit of stud. Then you can easily make the two 45ºcuts on the end to give you the scribe lines for the coping saw cut.

Cheers
Michael

I think you're over-complicating it. Forget about pointy ends. Think one wall at a time. Cut the mitre to meet one ceiling quad and scribe cut then look at the other wall and make the mitre to meet the other ceiling quad and scribe cut that. Imagine each wall is a floor and it may make it easier to envisage.
Cheers,
Jim