Thread: ML-392 blade setting technique

Redback, the blades need to be parallel to 1) the thicknesser bed, and 2) the jointer infeed & outfeed tables, and it needs to be as close as possible to the same height as the outfeed table. This means that the thicknesser table is parallel to the jointer tables.

If it was working OK before you took the blades out, you can presume that the tables are all parallel. If not, they can be adjusted, but as I've not had to do it, I can't walk you through it step by step. There are adjusters on all the tables, but I'd avoid touching them unless you have to.

Set the infeed table at the same height as the outfeed using a straightedge, and check that it is OK all the way across. I made a setting jig with 5 rare earth magnets, 3 that sit

Sorry, interrupted. continuing...
3 that stick to the table, and 2 that hold the blades in position. These all have to be in the same plane. I set them up in a piece of thick chipboard, held in the same plane on the outfeed table while the araldite set. I've just bought a pair of bar magnets that I'm going to try, as I reckon they may be easier to use.

The idea is that 2 magnets hold the cutting edge of the blade in position immediately above the centre of the cutter block axle. Then, nip up all the bolts holding the blades. lay a piece of wood on the outfeed table, projecting over the blades, and rotate the cutterhead. The blades are correctly adjusted when they just catch the wood and move it a smidgeon. (<2mm).

I've just bought 2 bar magnets to replace the jig, and someone (Zed?) suggested removing the springs under the blades. That makes sense, so I'm going to try that next time.
Sorry this is a bit hard to understand without pics, I'll try to take some when I next replace the blades (soon).

Redders, have a read through this thread, particularly the last 2 pages where it shows using simple bar magnets to set the blades. I got mine online from the supplier suggested in that thread. Absolutely no probs setting the blades on my 392 unit. I think those jigs are pretty crappy, which is why I use the magnets only.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ighlight=snipe

Thanks Alex. Much appreciated....

Gumby....what thread???? (im assuming you meant to post a link?)

ps... I read in a thread somewhere (I did do a search)... that with a piece of timber on the outfeed table, rotating the cutter should pick up and move the timber 6 mm...

anyone agree, disagree with this??

Originally Posted by Redback

Gumby....what thread???? (im assuming you meant to post a link?)

Sorry mate, fixed now. The phone went off as I was typing it.

Originally Posted by Redback

ps... I read in a thread somewhere (I did do a search)... that with a piece of timber on the outfeed table, rotating the cutter should pick up and move the timber 6 mm...

anyone agree, disagree with this??

I didn't think it was that much.

Redback,
the jig you are using can be very accrate ONLY if you used both to set the height with blades in place that are correct before taking them out. Then you use some loctite to weld in the thread so as to never change the setting again - well, too late for that now. That is how the guy at carbatec uses his one anyway. Remember that the cutter head may not be parallel to the tables. To get the blades set now, Gumby has a great idea. In fact I have a simlar jig obtained from Timbecon with 3 magnets set in a steel bar. 2 magnets rest on the table and the 3rd magnet holds the blade in place at the correct height. The magnetic bar that Gumby uses may be even more accurate.
Regards
Les

Yup, Im now convinced to buy some magnets.

Pity I wasted the money a while ago on that POS jig :mad:
and Les, yeah now you say that, I can see that being the only way :mad:

not happy Jan!.

Thanks to Alex and Gumby for the ideas...

(why do they call you the plasticine man...I thought Gumby is a puppet in the muppets??, or are you just that bendy!)

Only problem now is, tomorrow is my day off.... and Im about to start a new project which needs my jointer and thicknesser.... If it was requiring something like 20 metres of timber to be planed, Id almost consider the dark side (shudder)

Anyways, thanks for the input guys

RB

Originally Posted by Redback

(why do they call you the plasticine man...I thought Gumby is a puppet in the muppets??, or are you just that bendy!)
RB

:eek: You've never heard of Gumby ? :eek:

You have obviously had a deprived childhood.

He was never a Muppet, much more handsome than that

http://www.gumbyworld.com/index_05_27_05.html

Yep rip those bloody springs out and throw em... not needed with a magnetic blade setting jig.
And 6mm pick up and move is too much, 2mm is good for no end snipe.

Originally Posted by Harry72

Yep rip those bloody springs out and throw em... not needed with a magnetic blade setting jig.
And 6mm pick up and move is too much, 2mm is good for no end snipe.

Yeah good idea H, they aren't necessary. Why didn't I think of that. :confused:

Agree about the 2mm too.

Guys,
just to put a spanner in the works. I am reading thru the David Charlesworth book "Furniture making techniques". He reckons that when setting the jointer blades "rest a straight edge on the outfeed table and on the blade, and the straight edge should be about 0.5mm above the table.
My own opinion - but then I'm no Charlesworth, would be to have the straight edge (or the magnets in this case) flat on the table when touching the blade.
Les

Originally Posted by lesmeyer

Guys,
He reckons that when setting the jointer blades "rest a straight edge on the outfeed table and on the blade, and the straight edge should be about 0.5mm above the table.

He must like snipe then.

If it's 0.5mm above the table, and since it would be coming in a straight line from the top of the blade, it means that his blades are MORE than 0.5mm above outfeed table height. A recipe guaranteed to cause snipe.

Everything I've seen says they should be level. That means that if you put a straight piece of timber on the outfeed table and have it extending over the blades, then the blades will just touch the timber if you turn them, causing the timber to move slighlty and give that 2mm (approx) measurement. If you did that with the Charlesworth settings, it would drag the timber a lot further than that.

It's pretty simple really. When jointing timber, if the outfeed table is higher than the blades, the timber will hit the table edge after passing the blades and won't slide over the outfeed table. If the outfeed table is lower, you get snipe.

After seeing this thread yesterday, the bar magnets arrived, so I changed the blades and used the magnets to reset them. I have a line marked immediately above the axis of the cutter head, so put the bar magnets on the outfeed table, removed the springs, hung the cutters from the magnets with the edge in line with the axis, and tightened them up. When I tested them with a bit of wood on the outfeed table, they each moved the wood about 1mm. That's good enough for me. Much easier than the jig was.

Well, i spent the best part of the afternoon changing blades and using the magnets. I also loosened the infeed table to straighten it up a bit. It was only slightly out, but enough to be annoying. I can't figure out why the infeed table has adjustment nuts (the one near the on/off switch particularly) when it's also fixed to the brackets by small pins which don't allow any adjustment at all. :confused:

Anyway, after a fair amount of mucking about, it's got new blades and humming beautifully again. They sure make a noise with blunt blades though. :eek: