Thread: More than one way to...

I have made a batch before in corporation with Woman's Weekly (or woman's day. cant remember). it was a success but I got bored of it.

This project is partly to fulfil a need and partly a learning experience.

What process did you use to manufacture them? Similar to the suggested way above?

Another way would be to rout the grooves right through and then mount them on a base that provides the bottom. This could be in contrasting timbers if desired. The pic below is a crude mockup but should illustrate the idea.

Oil rack mock up.JPG

The grooves could also be made in 1 long piece and then cut to length and glued on the base beside each other. More work in one way but easier to get the spacing even.

Completely routed channels might work. I think I would have to use just a strip at the bottom to reduce complexity rather than try to incorporate the stand into the second piece or maybe even another "shelf" option such as small dowels.

Originally Posted by leyton01

This project is partly to fulfil a need and partly a learning experience.

What process did you use to manufacture them? Similar to the suggested way above?

basically same as your post suggested, but I simplified a few area as the client only wanted the look and feel. they didnt care too much about how it was made but rather the look of it.

Originally Posted by leyton01

For halving down the centre - would this best be achieved with a bandsaw or a table saw? I have to a DIY level bandsaw (Full Boar 750W 305mm) with an ordinary fence and an old Carbatec 10" table saw. If a spade/auger bit is used above I think this would require 2 cuts either side of centre to remove the centre point divot.

A Forstner bit has a centre point that is much smaller than a spade bit - might be able to just sand divot out.

Another way would be to make up a clamped sandwich of 2 pieces of the wood you want the grooves in either side of a piece of 3mm MDF which the centre point drills through leaving no divot on the sides..

Originally Posted by leyton01

I am seeking the hive mind on ideas of how best to make them as the design is simple but there are a couple of ways of achieving the end result, all with their pros and cons. I am thinking:
Start with the block of timber, drill the holes, then halve the timber along the holes, followed by bevelling the back of the timber.

The detail comes in to what is best for each step -
The holes would be cleanest with a forstner bit but 6 x 60mm holes will take some time given the chip clearing of the bits is not the best. Other option is a spade or auger bit - these give a rougher finish and a large centre point in exchange for speed. Combination of both maybe? Or a left field idea of a cove bit on a router (if timber halved first) - but would require finishing to square the base.

I think your idea is close to correct. I would drill down about 10mm (or the depth of the Forstner rim)with a Forstner bit of the correct diameter. Then drill down with a slightly smaller diameter spade bit to your 60mm. Use an air compressor if you have one to blow out the chips or a vacuum cleaner to suck them out (probably better) and then re-insert the Forstner bit and clean out the waste. The pilot hole you first drilled should guide the bit, I would use a drill press for this if you have one.

Try it on a piece of similar scrap first to check it works satisfactorily.

Regards
Paul

I reckon that's the way I'd first try... but you'd need a good drill press. Even a 0.2 mm variance in the drilling depths would be obvious and this is, after all, probably the most viewed face of the piece. I've seen flat-faced forstners that would work nicely for cleaning any bottom dimple, but I've no idea what sizes they'd be readily available in.

Alternately, you can drill all the way through - or go the router method - and then simply glue a suitable strip on the bottom. This would ensure the bottoms would make a nice & crisp line... and careful selection of the wood & orientation of the grain can make most reasonable glue joints hard to detect.

I'd also first consider slicing a laminate off the block (to glue back on as the base with grain matching) before drilling the holes. If you start to drill/rout from the side the laminate came off, any breakout would be on the 'top' of the stand, where it could easily be removed.

Some great ideas - I like the idea of 2 pieces sandwiched together - saves a cut and some clean up if it works.

I have tried a few ways of putting a strip on the bottom but it is requiring some complex angles to incorporate a stand. I will keep giving it a go but it is also hard to find a box core bit in the right size (lots of 19mm and 25mm ones with the needed 22mm sitting right in the middle).

The forstner bit was working well on the pine testers, will have to see how it goes on hardwood.