Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
Thread: Mortice and Tenon joints
-
20th September 2004, 03:01 PM #1
Mortice and Tenon joints
Hopefully a fundamental question, but I want to get it right......
How deep should a mortice and tenon joint be? Im sure there is a simple rule of thirds or halves that applies, but I can't find it. Thanks in advance"I may be drunk, but you ma'am, are ugly. Tomorrow, I will be sober." Winston Churchill
-
20th September 2004 03:01 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
20th September 2004, 03:30 PM #2
I recall a similar thread probably about 12 months ago. Try doing a search and perhaps all will be revealed.
- Wood Borer
-
20th September 2004, 06:27 PM #3
I think you can safely assume the tenon should be a third (thickness), depth for me depends on what tool I have available.
woody U.K.
"Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln
-
20th September 2004, 06:36 PM #4
Rule of Thumb is 1/3 the depth/width.
Regards from Perth
Derek
-
20th September 2004, 10:21 PM #5
From bitter experience, when deciding on the depth of the tennon, dont forget that if you are rounding the corners (usually done post assembly) that you have clearance with the end of the tennon! I have a pair of small doors with just about 0.5 mm of tennon showing through on all rounded corners and therfore i am remaking the
dddd doors!
Jacko
-
20th September 2004, 11:35 PM #6
I contend that if strengthis the aim the longer the glueline the better therefore the tennon should be as deep as possible in fact I contend that a through tennon has strength advantages over any stopped tennon Provided a reasonable ammount of material remains before the end of the member.
rossRoss"All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.
-
21st September 2004, 09:46 AM #7
-
21st September 2004, 12:11 PM #8
Yeah - what AlexS said. I used wedged babies on my bench. Hurricane Ivan wouldn't budge'em. They do look good, too.
The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
-
21st September 2004, 08:57 PM #9
On the topic of tenon size ... (err no pun intended), I agree that a longer tenon will withstand stronger lateral forces. My question is, how thick?
Too thick will weaken the mortised section too thin will make the tenon weak, Is it 1/3 again?“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
-
21st September 2004, 11:12 PM #10
A rule of relative dimensions 1/3 is what I work by Marc...held me in good stead so far.
CheersJohnno
Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.
-
22nd September 2004, 12:08 AM #11Originally Posted by Marc
ie: if joining a 2" pail to a post of say 75mm then 2 tennons of 10mm width separated by 10mm is far stronger than single 1/3 width tennon of 17mm.
Add up ghe glue surfaces if you dont agree.
Also the height of the tennon in this situation is more important than the width.
That is to say a tennon made to resist racking forces should look very different to one designed to support high static weight.Ross"All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.
-
22nd September 2004, 03:31 PM #12
Hi,
just to add another angle. I see that David Marks often uses loose tenon joinery using the 1/3 rule of thumb. Maybe this will be stronger depending on the wood used for the loose tenon.
Regards
Les