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Thread: Mounting a woodworking vise
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7th May 2008, 04:48 PM #1
Mounting a woodworking vise
Folks,
I'm in the process of setting up my shed and I am in the final stages of making my bench. Picture attached for your edification.
I want to mount a Groz (thank you Carba-tec for a speedy delivery) woodworking vise at the left hand end and I have, as I see it, two options.
This particular vise has four mounting holes which sit under the bench. The bench top is 45mm slabs of kiln dried hardwood and I can either use four m10 x 50 mm (the vise base is 10mm plus a 10mm hardwood spacer) coach bolts or I could use m10 x 75 mm cup head bolts which I recess into the top surface of the bench and then cover with plugs.
I would prefer not to disturb the upper surface of the bench so my first thought is the coach bolts but I've never used them for any precision work so what would you blokes do?
I will drill out a tap size holes in the timber and I hope that would help ensure they end up in the right place but what are their long term holding characteristics?
Will they need to be re-tightened at some stage?
They just seem a bit crude and for that reason I thought maybe the bolts were the better solution in spite of needing to repair the top surface after their installation
Any suggestions gratefully received
Ian
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7th May 2008 04:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th May 2008, 05:07 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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A nice shed and bench Ian, congrats. If you used the coach bolts from underneath and later found that that they were unsatisfactory you could replace them with the cup head bolts without making the existing holes any larger. You would need to drill out at 10mm and countersink. So nothing lost in trying the coach bolt first.
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7th May 2008, 05:09 PM #3
Considering the abuse a vice will get over its life I'd recommend through-bolting the vice to the bench. An alternative is to use a larger spacer plate, say 150mm x 300mm, which will suit the thickness of the bench top and bolt the vice to this instead. Then the larger surface of the spacer plate can be glued to the underside of the bench.
I tend to detest coach screw/bolts because they have a nasty habit is splitting the timber they're screwed into if it's too near an edge."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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8th May 2008, 08:48 AM #4
Thanks to you both for your responses.
Fencepost, yep it's shaping up to be a nice place to work and I take your point
Kman, unfortunately, with a jaw height of 55mm and a bench top thickness of 45mm, I only have 10 mm to play with so the plate idea has it's problems.
A thought just ocurred to me that maybe the metal should be a tad below bench height to keep it from damaging blades etc - rather than flush with the top. I would fit the timber jaws to be flush but set the jaws down a bit - any suggestions?
I did a bit of experimenting with a 8mm tap holes and I think the coach bolts will suffice, and I didn't get any splitting, even a 19mm bit of Tassie Oak so I reckon I'll be OK.
I have a 150 mm Dawn engineers vice to go on the right hand end of the bench so any abuse will be directed at that. The Groz will only be the more genteel activities
Regards
Ian
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8th May 2008, 09:46 AM #5
55mm!?!?
Would you mind pointing me to the vice you're talking about, I'm not sue we're talking about the same thing."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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8th May 2008, 11:38 AM #6
Ian,
You are right about keeping the metal jaws a tad below the top. Fit wood cheeks then plane them after fitting to be level with the top. I would be leaning more to through bolting as a more secure fix but the coach bolts will probably do .
Regards
John
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8th May 2008, 06:24 PM #7
Kman - the vise is on the Carba-tec site - http://www.carbatec.com.au/store/ind...=60_7890_19263
The 55mm is from the top of the rear jaw to the top surface of the mounting plate
Thanks Orraloon -will do. Yeah I had a bit of a fiddle with the coach bolts and if the positions are pre-drilled they go in pretty well and a bit of dry-lube helps as well - they seem to cut a nice deep, smooth thread and it is into hardwood so they should be good enough
Regards
Ian
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8th May 2008, 08:13 PM #8Skwair2rownd
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New!!
Can I come and work in your shed/
I can't get around mine at the moment!
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8th May 2008, 10:34 PM #9
Artme - you know the rules - the amount of carp expands to fit the space available - I give it 12 months and then I'll have to go out side just to change my mind
Ian
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9th May 2008, 10:01 AM #10
Looks a lot bigger than that, but it's enough to work with. The top of the vice can up to 30mm lower than the bench top providing you have nice sturdy wooden jaws fitted. Any more than that and the jaw thickness might start impeding on the max opening too much.
Mine are 20mm below the bench top which would give you a 30mm spacer plate; ample for through bolts then glued to the underside of the bench. That's how I'd do it anyway
Good luck with it all, which ever method to choose.
Dave."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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9th May 2008, 02:51 PM #11
I fitted a vice like that one, using coach screws up into the underside of the benchtop. Make sue your pilot holes are the right size and splitting wont be an issue. I like the idea of a fixing that can be accessed to tighten up after a while, and some of the stresses going into a vise are pretty strong.
Young kids cancels shed time
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9th May 2008, 11:40 PM #12
Thank you all for your responses. I'll get back to you when I've done the deed
Regards
Ian
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20th May 2008, 11:11 AM #13
I said I'd get back when I'd done the deed - thank you all - so in case you missed it take a look here - http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...231#post740231
Regards
Ian
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