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Thread: Nail/screw extraction
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10th June 2011, 05:02 PM #1
Nail/screw extraction
I've obtained some 4 x 2 hardwood joists
Trouble is that they have come out of a house (or room) which has been refloored at some stage. It looks like the original nails have been cut/broken off level with the surface. I need to remove them before I plane down the surface. I'd guess that they are about 1" in.
Does anyone know whether these screw extractors from McJings work? Longevity?
Are there any other options or easy ways to remove said nails?
I'm expecting that I'll have to fill holes with dowel or something
Thanksregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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10th June 2011, 05:12 PM #2Senior Member
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I think you want this thread - it pretty much covers it
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/ex...-timber-66502/
For my two cents if the nail is flush with the surface then drill two holes either side, knock the nail sideways with a punch to loosen and try and dig out enough timber to get a grip with pliers/pincers/multigrips is the only way. You can choose to try conservative with smaller drill sizes or go big enough that you will be able to knock the nail right into the hole.
or, if you can live with them... just punch them down out of the way. Don't like it myself but sometimes you just have to.
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10th June 2011, 05:48 PM #3
pampelmuse,
Cheers
None of the searches I tried turned up that thread - and I knew it existed as I recall reading it.
might try the drill holes next to the nail trick firstregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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10th June 2011, 06:18 PM #4
Nick, a good set of vice grips and an old chisel works wonders.
Once I get a grip on the nail I insert a small pry bar under the vice grips and pull the nail straight up.
I found the chisel worked well because I could cut an angled divot that the corner of the vice grip jaws fit into....if that makes sense.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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10th June 2011, 07:22 PM #5
To remove screws you can always try an impact driver to get them started.
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10th June 2011, 09:38 PM #6
I have just tried the link and it worked first time. Maybe it's good now.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/ex...-timber-66502/
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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10th June 2011, 10:29 PM #7
Paul
Thanks
I meant that when I did a forum search for removing nails and whatever other search terms I came up with I didn't get that particular thread, which I knew existed.regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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10th June 2011, 11:49 PM #8
Sawdust Maker
Sorry. Thought there was a computing hiccup.
For what it's worth, I have de-nailed several houses and heaps of demolition timber. I have used good claw hammers, pincers, vice grips (chisels are a bit of a last resort if you are removing literally hundreds of nails) selected pinchbars (the vee section on most of them is poor), metal detector and nail punches.
The punches are to drive the nail in if all else fails. If the timber is going to be planed, sawn or thicknessed, I draw a circle around it with crayon so I know it's down in the timber somewhere.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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11th June 2011, 11:57 AM #9
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11th June 2011, 05:23 PM #10
I use a old large screw driver (or small chisel)thats cut into a V on the end, doesnt need to be ultra sharp bit of an edge will do. Attack the nail each side and lift out the chips, now grab some vice grips and lock them on "dont not lever it yet" grab a pry bar or large claw hammer and hook it under the vice grips and heave straight up. If that dont work the drill will do it.
I would never nail them in, its to easy too forget and find them with a machine DAMHIKT
Nail holes can be hid pretty easily when recycling joists if you consider it while designing your project.
Panels hide them as you can glue the nailed faces together, if the nails are in a straight line you can groove/dado them out to form the stiles and rails on doors or panels.....................................................................
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11th June 2011, 05:42 PM #11
Harry
thanks
The 'nailed' face will end up as the underside of a workbench or the rails of said bench. I thus will want it reasonably smooth. The groved idea with glued in piece sounds like it might work - But I'll bet my left ? that they don't line up but is an idea anywayregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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12th June 2011, 02:59 PM #12
one thing that works moderately is getting an engineering rolled pin...ya know a pin rolled of spring steel.
grind the end sort of like a drill and use the nail shaft as a centre.
select the right rolled pin and this gives the smallest possible hole for a given nail extraction
if you have any head or shaft showing at all a big pair of pincers is by far the best thing.
But if they are deep , and you can at all manage....drive em deep and leave em where they are.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.