Thread: Natural Edge Picture Frame - what joinery to use?

There is no problem doing a mitre joint. There are numerous designs for tablesaw sleds which cut perfect mitres by registering against the inside surface rather then the outside.

Refer to this video how to make perfect mitre joint - Bing Videos

You will need to strengthen the joint using an internal spline or biscuit or dowel or something. Lots of options there.

cheers
Arron

Mitres look real nice if you can manage them but a problem with mitres is the timber has to be of equal width (not always possible with natural edges) otherwise the the pieces won't meet nicely in the corners.

Here are a couple of other designsit that don't look too bad

The top one is just screwed and glued together from above and below using deep hole countersunk screws
The one under that one is just S&G from behind.

Since it is a natural edge then 45 degrees is a bit irrelevant anyway. Freehand cut one piece to some angle around 45 degrees. Lay the second piece under it in an orientation which suits and scribe a cutting line to achieve the effect you require.

The following horrible diagrams might show what I mean.[ATTACH]303017

Thanks heaps guys, especially for taking the time to draw that pic.

One thing I should have said is that the inside will be straight like in the PICs

Do you think the under / over method would look funny though?

Cheers

Originally Posted by Arry

Thanks heaps guys, especially for taking the time to draw that pic.

One thing I should have said is that the inside will be straight like in the PICs

Do you think the under / over method would look funny though?

The only way you will really know is to make one.

Good Morning Arry

BobL's method is far easier to get a good result than using mitres.

In my opinion, mitres in bush timber do not look right unless all four rail-stile joints are by timber of the same width, thickness and curvature. Any variation will display end grain.

With Bob's method, you can bolster the joints with mortise & tennon, loose tongues, dowells or just plain bog standard butt joints. If you make your backing board of 3 mm MDF or ply and screw it to the frame every 150 or 200 mm then it will add strength and minimise the engineering needed for the joints.


Fair Winds

Graeme

Thanks Guys, I think I will give Bob's method a shot, will be easier and look better.

Cheers, I will post a pic if it looks good

Question: If I use Bob's method I would somehow have to make the rabbets by stopping short on some ends.

I could do it with my dado set but it wouldn't it be dangerous?

Suggestions on how to do this or would you simply assemble the frame and then use a router to do the work?

Or I guess drop the piece down onto my router bit (using my router table) as the bit was spinning?

Suggestions?

Cheers

Apologies for bumping this, it is for a present and I left it a little late

Good Morning Arry

I have used two techniques, noting that I would not be game to use dado saw.

FIRST: On the router table - I just use chalk marks to mark the end of the rabbet rather than trying to set up physical stops.

SECOND: Noting that the back of the frame must be flat, I free hand the router with a rabbet bit with ball bearing guide. CarbiTool T1720B.



Fair Winds

Graeme

Cheers Graeme