Thread: Nice contract for someone

This thread may be of some interest to you.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f40/ta...ght=chimpanzee

Hi Bob long shot here depending on where you need them I d suggest trying an engineering company with a long bed metal lathe. We used to send out Large ships shafts When I worked at garden Island in sydney one apon a time they had the largest in the country, there is also a company that used to have one near Williamstown in VIC I am not sure about queensland or its naval yards. so I ve got no idea where to look I honestly think they will be your best bet as they d probly be only Lathes to get a 200mm cutter trough the chuck you may be able to get a line borer to do it as well but it will be a long slow process an big big $$$$

OMG!

How does one "win" a contract without knowing how to execute it

Unless there are very generous provisions for escalation, it's a contract I'd prefer to lose. Is insanity a valid basis for release

Are you sure about the dimensions? The proportions look entirely out of kilter, in contrast to all the waterfront structures I've engineered.

No offense, but horrified,
Joe

Hi Joe

He had some thoughts on how to do the job but was looking for better cheaper ways to do it.

I had some thoughts myself on the method that he could use.

1) split the log with a bandsaw
2) run the resulting half logs over an ordinary bench saw set at 45 deg.
3) reverse the log and do it again
This should then give a half log with most of the centre removed in a V shape
4) set up the saw for coving and run the log over the saw raising the blade incrementally until it is at 100mm
This will then give us two half logs that each have a half moon with a radius of 100mm
5) glue the logs together again with an epoxy glue

itsposs

We had thought of using a lathe originally but this was always going to be very problematical as the outside of the log would be no circular. So, assuming that we would need a rest for the log about half way along its length, the log would probably be running offset. So, if we instead make the log static and the head holding the cutters we then have the problem of moving the log forward incrementally. All-in-all, I don't think that a lathe is a goer. But then again, I am not a turner and someone who is may have some alternative ideas.

Avery

Thanks for the link, it gave me the idea above.

If anyone else has more or better ideas or is interested doing the work, then please contact me.

Bob Willson

I'm with Joe on this – utter madness or brinkmanship.

One-piece log pipes were in common use for water and sewerage from Roman times up until the twentieth-century. My uncle used to have a 6" or 8" auger in his shed which apparently was used for making such pipes. An auger would be the cheapest and probably the simplest approach.

Why does he need a 200mm hole right through?

It sounds to me like he is setting up a faux structure.

2.5 m piers are obviously not going to be driven into the bottom too far. I suspect he will have a steel pipe or steel/concrete structure and the piers are just a rustic sleev.

Originally Posted by BobL

It sounds to me like he is setting up a faux structure.

2.5 m piers are obviously not going to be driven into the bottom too far. I suspect he will have a steel pipe or steel/concrete structure and the piers are just a rustic sleev.

Wouldn't a couple of coats of Dulux Seaside Bark do the trick?

Maybe some type of mining drill.

Originally Posted by

Why does he need a 200mm hole right through?

As BobL surmised, the outer timber is just for show. They will be lined with 180/200 mm diam steel pipes.
They need to look as close to the original piers as possible, whilst incorporating modern technology to ensure that they last a lot longer next time.

No Woodwould, Dulux Seaside Bark would not do the trick, but the 8 inch auger is not a bad idea. How were they driven?Muscle power alone?

Originally Posted by Bob Willson

No Woodwould, Dulux Seaside Bark would not do the trick, but the 8 inch auger is not a bad idea. How were they driven?Muscle power alone?

Worth a try. The augers I've seen in person and in photographs had T-handles and were indeed muscle-powered. I have a recollection of a photo with one end of an Elm log propped up on another log and a bloke winding the auger down the length of the log. I'll see if I can find the book and scan the image for you.

Thanks Woodwould

Something else that may to be taken into account is the hardness of our hardwoods. Elm is a relatively soft hardwood. These piers would be made from Tallowood

In that case you don't need a hole right through but about 400mm deep to locate on a spigot (if you need one at all).

A 450mm Tallowwood pole would be as strong if not stronger than a steel pipe of 200mm.

You are most likely quite correct but the contractors want what they want and he is not allowed to go outside those requirements.

Even so, just going in 400mm would still be quite difficult to do.Not as difficult as 1250 from each end, but still difficult.

Bob Willson