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8th June 2005, 11:48 PM #1
Oblique drawbored mortice and tenon joints
I searched the forum for information on how to cut oblique mortice and tennon joints for a timber rack I am building. Having failed to find such information, I hope to contribute to the common knowledge base by showing how I made these joints. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
Generally speaking, there are two ways of constructing oblique M&T joints. Either make a square tenon and an oblique mortice, or the other way around. I could not think of a way of consistently making oblique mortices, without resorting to enslaved demons, and, therefore cut oblique mortices. (Conjurers may try tilting the table of the drill press for boring oblique mortices.)
I started by cutting the tenon end at 85 degrees.
I, then, used this new edge as a reference for marking the tenon. To help cutting, the edges of the tenon should be deep enough to allow for the saw kerf.
And here is the marked tenon ready for cutting the edges.
And the cut tenon.
Then, I marked the cheeks
And cut them.
Then I used the tenon to mark the mortice. The pencil line marks the top of the arm, and the mortise is cut relative to that position.
I used the techniques described by Bob Smalser for cutting the mortice and making the drawbore.
And here is the final result:
Oh, before loading my timber on my new rack I tested the strength of the joints by pulling down on the arms. The joint is, apparently, very strong, and held well. The arm, however, remained in my hand. Apparently I will have to use the Gumby approach for storing timber.Last edited by javali; 9th June 2005 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Fixing some of the typos (only those I found)
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9th June 2005, 12:22 AM #2
That's angled?
You don't know what angled is.
Best advice, drill angled and pare the rest. Angle the shoulders on the long sides only, unless it's going to show, then make the shoulder go all the way around because you will probably have gaps.
Veneer pieces are your friend too.
BTW, I think I did ok. That's a frame for a 6 sided table and it was 3mm out on one corner. All drawbored just for good measure. The thing is never going to fall apart.
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9th June 2005, 04:57 AM #3Originally Posted by Schtoo
there's no school like the old school.
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9th June 2005, 08:58 AM #4
Great work from the two of you.
- Wood Borer
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9th June 2005, 07:41 PM #5
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10th June 2005, 09:45 PM #6
Nice work guys, the hexagonal table strikes me as something to replace sado masochism BUT Javali please tell me you're NOT doing work with sharp tools while wearing japanese riding sandals!
(concerned) Fletty