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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Adelaide
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    304

    Default Oblique drawbored mortice and tenon joints

    I searched the forum for information on how to cut oblique mortice and tennon joints for a timber rack I am building. Having failed to find such information, I hope to contribute to the common knowledge base by showing how I made these joints. Comments and suggestions are welcome.

    Generally speaking, there are two ways of constructing oblique M&T joints. Either make a square tenon and an oblique mortice, or the other way around. I could not think of a way of consistently making oblique mortices, without resorting to enslaved demons, and, therefore cut oblique mortices. (Conjurers may try tilting the table of the drill press for boring oblique mortices.)

    I started by cutting the tenon end at 85 degrees.


    I, then, used this new edge as a reference for marking the tenon. To help cutting, the edges of the tenon should be deep enough to allow for the saw kerf.




    And here is the marked tenon ready for cutting the edges.


    And the cut tenon.


    Then, I marked the cheeks


    And cut them.


    Then I used the tenon to mark the mortice. The pencil line marks the top of the arm, and the mortise is cut relative to that position.


    I used the techniques described by Bob Smalser for cutting the mortice and making the drawbore.

    And here is the final result:


    Oh, before loading my timber on my new rack I tested the strength of the joints by pulling down on the arms. The joint is, apparently, very strong, and held well. The arm, however, remained in my hand. Apparently I will have to use the Gumby approach for storing timber.
    Last edited by javali; 9th June 2005 at 06:34 PM. Reason: Fixing some of the typos (only those I found)

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Japan。
    Age
    49
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    1,622

    Default

    That's angled?

    You don't know what angled is.

    Best advice, drill angled and pare the rest. Angle the shoulders on the long sides only, unless it's going to show, then make the shoulder go all the way around because you will probably have gaps.

    Veneer pieces are your friend too.

    BTW, I think I did ok. That's a frame for a 6 sided table and it was 3mm out on one corner. All drawbored just for good measure. The thing is never going to fall apart.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Bellingham
    Age
    47
    Posts
    798

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Schtoo
    That's angled?

    You don't know what angled is.
    cutting a 3 degree angle accurately is just as difficult as cutting 35 degrees. good job javali.

    there's no school like the old school.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Tolmie - Victoria
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,010

    Default

    Great work from the two of you.
    - Wood Borer

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    Nice work. Great fun doing angled M&T, but looks good when it works.
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  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default

    Nice work guys, the hexagonal table strikes me as something to replace sado masochism BUT Javali please tell me you're NOT doing work with sharp tools while wearing japanese riding sandals!
    (concerned) Fletty

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