Thread: Okay... cutting strips how do you do it?

Originally Posted by Lignum

Eddie, ... i have had the remark removed. Its now a non issue with both of us. And by the way, have a look at his web site, he makes brilliant furniture

Hi Lignum,

Apologies - non issue here as well. Accordingly, I've gone back and done a bit of selective editing.

Have a good day,

eddie
(at home with sick child today)

The way I rip multiple strips, ie. 6mm or less, for laminating curves, is similar to eddie the eagles I think. Cut most of the way down the length with the strip against the fence, then withdraw it from the saw, yes with the blade running. Then I flip the board end-for-end and finish the cut, withdrawing the strip with the board each time. I don't see what the fuss is about, with thin strips the timber isn't likely to grip the blade, and I've yet to get kickback as I'm in firm control of the timber at all times. I like the fact that this method keeps my hands well clear of the blade, with no fiddly edging of strips past the spinning blade and fence with the bleedin' guard getting in the way of a push stick:eek:.
As for a shorter fence, the only time I consider that essential is when cross cutting, not ripping, so the offcut piece doesn't get stuck between the fence and the blade.
Without a thicknesser, I wouldn't try ripping them on a bandsaw, as the cuts tend to wander too much for accurate work, but that's just my experience.

Cheers,

Shanes initional question was ripping long 3mt strips, so i would be hesitant to back out with a 1500mm bit and flip and re rip. But on 1200mm or under this is my prefered method. Its safe, as you can have as wide a space between the fence and the blade and each thickness is spot on with each repeat cut

I think that you should all go and get 2 grrippers, which if coupled with the microjig splitter do to ripping what the Domino does to joining timber. Just thought I would mention that.

I like Lignum's ripping method - the gripper could be used here too to push the work through the blade safely.

Originally Posted by Wild Dingo

Okay now say youve got several 12ft lengths of 8in x 1in Maranti or Western Red Cedar you need to mill into 12ft x 1in x 1/4in strips... how would YOU go about it?

Now that I've actually registered and can post here, Wild Dingo, I'll offer up my technique for doing this kind of cut. I'll admit to having ocassionally lurked in this forum for about five years on and off, but never felt the urge to register or post until a couple of days ago.

Here's the technique I use for your type of job:

I don't tend to back the boards out to make narrow cuts as some have described. I don't think it's dangerous particularly, especially if your saw is fitted with a riving knife and crown guard. And with a thin stick being cut off one edge there's not much tendency for the wood to pinch on the blade which could be a cause of kickback.

The main problem with backing out is this tends to mash up the already cut edges leading to greater inaccuracy with each successive cut. Not only that, it's a time waster as there's double handling. What I do is set up to cut by flipping the rip fence so that the narrow edge is presented towards the saw blade as the guiding face. I also set the fence short, only just beyond the front downward chopping teeth.

I find a long piece of straight edged and square scrap about 350 or 500 mm long X about 80-- 100 mm wide X about the same thickness as the piece being ripped (into narrow sections.) I set this to one side, handy, right by the rip fence with the wide face down. I hand feed the piece being dimensioned through the saw until there's about 300 mm or so left to cut. (If this is a very long piece, say 3 metres or so I hold it at the very end at the back and walk it into the saw rather than feeding hand over hand.) Whatever, when I've got to that point where there's about 300 mm left to cut I grab the piece of scrap with my right hand, set it wide face down behind the piece being dimensioned and push until the cut is complete. At this point the piece of scrap will now have a kerf cut in it about 15- 30 mm long. Stop forward momentum and back the scrap out.

Use the piece of scrap to move the offcut of the piece just dimensioned away from the spinning blade and put the scrap back right by the rip fence again. Pick up the piece that you just moved away from the saw blade and is going to ripped next and repeat the process of ripping until all the strips you need are cut.

Each successive cut moves the previously dimensioned thin strip out of the way. If you don't like the thin strip just dimensioned sitting by the saw blade use a long thin strip of wood and feed it between the fence and the saw blade to knock the dimensioned piece beyond the blade-- it's totall unnecessary though if, like me, you always use a riving knife and crown guard.

If you don't use the European style rip fence on your saw that can be adjusted fore and aft, and flipped to present the narrow edge for ripping and also use an American style rip fence instead, all is not lost. Make up a false L shaped rip fence as described by Barb Siddiqui and use this as your short rip fence. To see how the false fence is made and used go to one of Eddie the Eagles posts in this thread-- somewhere on the second page I think-- and click on to the link he provided.

The method I've just described is fast, efficient, accurate, safe, doesn't require double feeding and double handling through backing out and flipping, and nor does it-- heaven forbid-- involve lifting wood up and over an unguarded and riving knife free spinning blade.

It really is not wimpy to use safety devices like a riving knife and crown guard as a standard item of kit on table saws. I've spent the last thirty odd years around industrial woodworking machinery and I've got a very healthy respect for its ability to cut up wood, metal, flesh and bone with equal abandon. Even the little 3 HP and 5 HP hobby type table saws can kickback viciously if used in a careless manner. Slainte.

Originally Posted by Sgian Dubh

heaven forbid-- involve lifting wood up and over an unguarded and riving knife free spinning blade.

.

I would never, never ever use a saw with out a riving knife and in my time on this forum i have yet to come across one person who dosnt use one. Guards are different. their are quiet a few who dont use them.

And we Aussies must be wimpy lot if a 5hp is considered a hobby saw

Originally Posted by Sgian Dubh

Even the little 3 HP and 5 HP hobby type table saws can kickback viciously if used in a careless manner. Slainte.

...and I thought that my 8" 1 1/4 hp saw was 'little'. Well there ya go.

I cut a lot of 30mm x 2.5mm

I just set the fence up 2.5mm from the blade and rip away using good pushsticks and a steady continuos feed rate.

If I have to do a lot of ripping I setup the power feeder.