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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Sydney
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    Post Painting and clearing hardwood timber

    Hi guys
    I'm new to the site so go easy on me.

    i have just started making skateboard decks out of hardwood slabs (Blackbutt and Tassie Oak) I just thought I would pick the brains of a few experts..

    Iwant to paint parts of the timber and then Clear coat everything when I'm finished. So basically I want to have 3/4 of the board showing the grain and timber and then the rest painted.

    i am a signwriter by trade so I know a fair bit about paints. But not that much about varnishes, and if they would stick to enamel.
    i figured I would undercoat and use enamel with a hardener in it.
    what advice could you give me to an appropriate clear or varnish to topcoat everything?
    thanks for your help.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Dundowran Beach
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    Thumbs up

    G'day Scotty and welcome to the fount of knowledge!!

    How clear do you want the varnish to be?? Most varnishes I know of will discolour the paint underneath.

    You will need a tough varnish so perhaps a marine varnish would be best.

    Good luck with all the advice you are going to get!!

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Thanks Artme
    I am expecting the slight discolouration, so i will just have to live with that.
    I have tried a marine varnish before, but that was on bare sanded timber, and i wasnt sure if it would stick to a painted surface.
    would you recomend a water based varnish or stick with the oil based?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

    Default

    Car acrylics and clearcote, they are designed to work together; you could even go 2-pac if you have the right equipment.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Sydney
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    5

    Lightbulb 2k finishing

    Thanks Master Splinter.
    I read that Acrylic Lacquers are too brittle for timber.
    I do have the equipment for 2k finishing.
    Has anybody had any success using 2k clear or spraying 2k colour onto bare timber?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    Default

    I'll let Chris Minick from Fine Woodworking #111 (1995) answer that...

    "Furnituremakers may question the wisdom of using automotive finishes on wood. After all, aren't car finishes brittle and meant for relatively immobile surfaces like metal instead of dimensionally unstable substrates like wood? Although that argument was true in the past, it is no longer accurate. Automotive primers, aerosol paints, clear-coat finishes and touch up paints have changed because car components have changed. The latest materials, such as high-impact plastics and composites, are used to manufacture car bumpers, trim and door panels. So paint makers have had to reformulate their coatings to accommodate increasing flexibility."

    If you're really concerned, you can always add one of the plasticiser additives that are used when spraying onto bumpers and plastic trim. And they've been spraying 2 pac onto kitchen doors for years and years and years.

    The only problem I've ever really noticed is that on some woods (like jarrah) you really need to seal sap runs with epoxy first, to hold them in place/replace the sap so they don't flake out.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    5

    Smile

    Thanks Master Splinter
    that makes sense I suppose, I'm gonna go talk to the guy who we buy our automotive paints and see what products he has and recommend.
    Thanks for your help.

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